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Old 24-11-2008, 22:27   #16
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Are you happy with it....many years ago I lived in a caravan that was like that...it was sweet and easy.
Do you have a single tank or two?...what are they made from?
How is the pressure maintained?
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Old 24-11-2008, 23:59   #17
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Stillraining
Are you happy with it....many years ago I lived in a caravan that was like that...it was sweet and easy.
Do you have a single tank or two?...what are they made from?
How is the pressure maintained?

Howdy James...

If I have your question correct you are asking if I have 1 or 2 hot water tanks...I have only 1 and it is a 12 gal round unit similar to what you would have in your home only plumbed with aditional coils for warming by the engine cooling sys.

We could keep it presurized all the time but we do not just incase some thing springs a leak and we are on deck..But every time we turn on the water pump the whole system pressures up to 20 psi..It is plumbed in a branch style system just like most houses are and I even have a small accumulator to help with hammer and constant flow issues...much like a deep well system in a home would have...One of my intended upgrades will be to install pump control switches for the pump at the galley sink and in each head as now we have to go the the panel or if you forget yell at someone to turn on the pump if you forget....It only takes the pump about 6 or 7 seconds to pressure every thing up from a dead rest position say you have been gone from the boat a week.

We get hot water in about 30 to 45 min engine running time and the water will go from cold to well into almost to hot for a shower with out adding cold water from the mixing valve..I have not heated from shore power or the gen set yet but @ only 120v and 1200 Watts it may take at least that long or longer to heat I dont know.

We have 180 gal water on board in three tanks which are all individually valved but all connected to the one sure-flow pump...and with 4 women in my life I could use more.. but its a huge improvement from our old boat which only had 40...but then they are ALL teenagers now..

As far as what we do to get hot water to the shower head ..nothing ..we just collect that water to use for teeth washing water or in the galley dish rinsing or whatever...or dad goes first which if its hot and sticky I dont use hot water anyway..but we do make a parade with showers once we start everyone showers so it helps cut that down...and yes we can all get a very quick shower with one tank..ya just have to have the push stop shower heads and holler at the girls to not use a lot of soap in their hair...the rule is the worst offender or water hog goes last next time...

Water Heater

I hope that helps.
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Old 25-11-2008, 09:35   #18
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Hey Stillraining
When I mentioned to Hyprdrv that the tank was not normally pressurized, I was referring to the water storage tank....not the hot water tank.

The caravan I lived in (late 70s) had no water pump.....there was a fill valve on the water tank just like the one on the car tire.
The entire tank and water supply system was pressurized by filling the tank with air from the gas station or with a bicycle pump.

When you responded that your tank was pressurized...I thought you were speaking about your cold water storage tank/s.

That’s why I asked the questions that probably seemed very strange indeed??
So sorry for the confusion!
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Old 25-11-2008, 11:43   #19
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Lets try this.
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Old 25-11-2008, 11:50   #20
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Ok in the diagram above the red line is the circ line. Without the circ pump there is no energy to create flow from the shower diverter back to the tank when the diverter valve is closed. You need a check valve to keep the water from flowing in the "path of least resistence" since the 20psi pressure pump would override a fractional circ. pump. The optional bladder tank would store pressure so the pressure pump doesn't have to run so often.

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Old 25-11-2008, 11:52   #21
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Very nice detai* Hyprdrv - and it works.
Evan’s simpler suggestion also works.
ie:
Add a vent to the Storage Tank, and plumb the red HWR line to top of the Storage Tank. Eliminate the Re-Circ’ Pump & check valves.

* What did you use to create this drawing?
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Old 25-11-2008, 11:55   #22
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Gord,
I'm a little thick today, Wouldn't that return Hot Water to the storage tank?
Steve
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Old 25-11-2008, 11:57   #23
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Steve
That works but will eat amps.
Having said that you will probably have more HW to your disposal as the volume of the lines will become part of the reservoir and if copper is used will add a degree (no pun intended) of thermal mass.
I'd insulate the heck out of the hot lines.
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Old 25-11-2008, 12:03   #24
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James you are correct however the circ pump could be 100th of a hp motor or even less. On such a small system the circ line would go to the farthest point, say the kitchen sink, giving you an additional 1 or 2 gallons of hot water. The amp draw on the motor would be very small and interlocked with the heater so it would run on an as needed bases, all you need to do is move the water and insulate the lines would should be done anyway for condensation.
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Old 25-11-2008, 12:06   #25
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Gord,
Sorry, I do AutoCad as part of my bizz. Then saved in another program as a "what ever" file format. Doesn't look as good as the Cad drawing but thanks.

Steve
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Old 25-11-2008, 12:09   #26
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Quote:
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Gord,
I'm a little thick today, Wouldn't that return Hot Water to the storage tank?
Steve
No.
In practice, you'd only select "Re-Circ" for the few moments it took to clear the HWS distribution pipe of cold water, then re-select to the shower valve.
Although Evan's suggestion is simpler, it is fully manual; whereas yours is an "always ready" automatic system (as might be used in a large home, or commercial installation).

A ½" dia. Pipe contains about 1.6 gallons volume per 100 feet.
A 3/4" pipe contains about 2.8 gal./cft.
So, at < less than 20 feet of HWS pipe/hose (10-12' away) Chrisc will have to re-circulate only 1/3 to ½ gallon of cooled water, before it runs hot enough to shower..
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Old 25-11-2008, 12:16   #27
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Gord,
Well that explains it!!
Simpler is better....on a boat I'm told.
Thanks,
Steve
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