work bench on a small cruiser

[seadago]

Originally Posted by kmcshane

No matter how I try the vice bench and chart table get confused
(and darned if I can get these photos to stand up straight).

Yep, that looks like a good and proper amateur mechanic toolbox!! Kudos to you!

[gertonw]

I have a smaller regular vise bolted to storage hatch cover on my aft bed. I flip it over, so vise is down in the storage area (access area to drive shaft). When needed, clear the bed, flip over the hatch cover, and I have a king size work space.

[Twister]

If you can find room for it, and if you can find one, a Black & Decker 'Workbox' is very handy.


https://www.adverts.ie/machinery-too...in-one/2006678

[Rhwins]

I found space to attach a permanently mounted woodworking vise (usually mounted on the side of a workbench) under the shelf in my lazerette of my 33' C&C. The space is just large enough for me to get into if I remove whatever else is stored there and the battery box works for a table to hold tools, parts and stuff. There is just enough room to drill, saw, hammer lightly etc. if the piece isn't too large and it has served me well. I like the idea of the use of the fender board across the cockpit for larger projects though.

[owly]

I consider some sort of drill press indispensable.... even if it's just a fixture that fits your cordless drill. A big percentage of repairs involve drilling holes, and they must be straight and true to really work.


H.W.

[sparrowhawk1]

Originally Posted by owly

I consider some sort of drill press indispensable.... even if it's just a fixture that fits your cordless drill. A big percentage of repairs involve drilling holes, and they must be straight and true to really work.


H.W.

Yes I had one many years ago and it was great. Cordless or corded drill clamped into a device that turns it into a drill press. For even quicker switching, Black & Decker used to make a "tube" with a shaft with bearings inside and the end was shaped to fit different sized tubes or rectangles so it would automatically Center, Or you could put it on flat objects and it would drill perfectly straight. I tried to find a replacement but I couldn't, and it was a great tool, cost very little money, was compact and fit in your Chuck just like a drill bit

[sparrowhawk1]

I realize it's been a long time since I looked for one so I did a quick Google search and found something that looks even better the video shows all the different ways you can use it. And the price is pretty good too.
And one more thing, it's actually handier than a drill press because you can drill in the middle of a sheet of plywood or on something that's mounted Etc

[Tailwheel]

One tip Don Casey wrote in one of his books was to mount a vise to a cockpit locker using carriage bolts and wing nuts. When in use, it would be bolted to the locker. When it came time to stow it, you would use the same carriage bolts to secure it to the underside of the same locker hatch. Never did do that, but seemed like a good idea.

[owly]

Originally Posted by sparrowhawk1

I realize it's been a long time since I looked for one so I did a quick Google search and found something that looks even better the video shows all the different ways you can use it. And the price is pretty good too.Attachment 180473
And one more thing, it's actually handier than a drill press because you can drill in the middle of a sheet of plywood or on something that's mounted Etc

I have one of those, but it's of limited usefulness due to the small chuck size. The concept could be improved. Here is an example of what I have in mind.
They are generally made mostly of cast iron, but aluminum versions can be found. The type you show is useful for drilling an accurate pilot hole in a round shaft or pipe, and that's worth a lot at times. They also tilt, which allows you to drill a hole at a specific angle, either on the flat or in a tube or shaft. Two critical tools are a good center punch, and a center drill, also shown below. While used mainly in lathe work, they are priceless when working with metals due to their stiffness. They do not deflect at all, as a small bit will. They are particularly valuable when extracting broken off bolts. I use a small end mill to flatten the top of the broken bolt, and to find center.... a 5/16" end mill will go down a 3/8 threaded hole and flatten the broken bolt without damaging the female threads, and finds an accurate enough center for the job. I then use a center drill to start the hole, followed by the drill size for an easy out. This process has a 100% success rate for me, and I've done literally hundreds of extracts. Broken off bolts are a nighmare and a common one.

I'm enough of an extremist that I would have a dremmel milling stand aboard to handle accurate shaping of wood, metal, or plastic parts. I believe in being as self sufficient and capable as possible. I can't carry a ton of tools on a small cat, so the challenge is the triage........ what do I need versus what do I want.



H.W.

[sparrowhawk1]

Good eye on the chuck size. Like I said I've had both. I prefer the one that can drill the center of a big piece of wood or starboard. Or a bulkhead etc. I'll just have to make sure I find one that has a half inch Chuck. Also many of the jobs I have to do are just one hole or two so being able to just switch as easily as switching a drill bit is awesome. Or simple clamping like the one you show. Not sure that would work with all drills though.

[jjuliajul11]

So I bought a small table, but I also bought a chair. I use a relatively small upholstered chair. We bought it 1.5 years ago. We wanted to buy another one but there is no room for it. It is really very comfortable and has a cool design. If you are wondering what it looks like then about as it https://thebestreclinersreviews.com/best-rv-recliners/

[RaymondR]

This is a jig I fabricated for drilling 1/4" holes in the centre of the edge of 1 x 2 timber for doweling. I'm going to knock up a few more of them for various purposes particularly one with the spigot offset to the edge of a flat plate.

I'm also upgrading the shelf in my previous post into a support box rather than just using angle iron so that I have a space up off the deck and protected from the rain. Primarily for placing mozzy coils up off the deck and out of harms way.

The second image is the ends of light weight "planks" I made to span the cockpit. They are made from 2" x 2" x 1/8" aluminium SHS split down the middle with 3/16" plywood either side. I mostly use them as a full cockpit width seat at the helm position but also use them as a largish work bench across the forward end of the cockpit and something to stand on when I need to work on the boom end. They are amazingly rigid with little sag with a 220# old roughneck in the middle.

[RaymondR]

Second image, must have pressed a wrong button or exceeded a file size or something.

Anyway, there's a lot of simple stuff you can make that's handy on a boat.

[owly]

Raymond:
I'm impressed with your fabrication skills.... I've been fabricating things and manufacturing things all my life, and I know how difficult it is to make something like that drill bushing assembly ACCURATELY. Particularly as it is welded together. That is no small accomplishment as it needs to be accurate in two planes, and of course welding always causes distortion. Of course dowel holes are usually not deep. I like your aluminum core planks.... good idea!


The Milescraft multi angle drilling jig Sparrowhawk pictures is an excellent device within it's limits.... I've had one for many years but rarely use it except for drilling pilot holes in the center of a shaft. Definitely a useful tool for the weight.


H.W.

Originally Posted by RaymondR

This is a jig I fabricated for drilling 1/4" holes in the centre of the edge of 1 x 2 timber for doweling. I'm going to knock up a few more of them for various purposes particularly one with the spigot offset to the edge of a flat plate.

I'm also upgrading the shelf in my previous post into a support box rather than just using angle iron so that I have a space up off the deck and protected from the rain. Primarily for placing mozzy coils up off the deck and out of harms way.

The second image is the ends of light weight "planks" I made to span the cockpit. They are made from 2" x 2" x 1/8" aluminium SHS split down the middle with 3/16" plywood either side. I mostly use them as a full cockpit width seat at the helm position but also use them as a largish work bench across the forward end of the cockpit and something to stand on when I need to work on the boom end. They are amazingly rigid with little sag with a 220# old roughneck in the middle.

[RaymondR]

Hi owly,

I have a small lathe in my support van which I leave at my summer base so it is fairly easy to square off the ends of the spigot then just clamp it with a 1/4" bolt. It being fairly easy and clean to work with Aluminium has become one of my favorite materials.

I tend to do one largish project each summer cyclone layover. This years is rebuilding the fridge but it's really stretching me. Fortunately it's the last big job on this boat. One way or another life stays interesting when you make your life around living on a boat.