Searching for the Right Boat

[robert sailor]

I think you don't see the rigging because there is no mast

[JK n Smitty]

Originally Posted by SVStargazer

I'm the proud owner of a Bayfield 25. Recently I completed a transatlantic crossing on another boat and have decided I must move up, as my boat is more or less incapable of offshore sailing.

Why do you need to move up? Why do you think your Bayfield 25 is "incapable of offshore sailing"?

Most people on this site use the list posted by Atom Voyages as the go to stop for finding a small, blue water cruiser. (link already posted) Your boat is on that list.

The Bayfield 25 is one of the quintessential pocket cruisers. That would be a perfect boat for a person to single-hand offshore. There are some upgrades that would be worth considering, like raising the companionway sill. I would recommend taking that $5K budget for buying a new boat and use it to make improvements to what you already have. Go with the Pardey's philosophy, go small, go now!

Fair winds,

Jesse

[robert sailor]

The Bayfield 25 is pretty light in construction, I'm sure it would sail the milkrun but she would be better off with something a little heavier built. Even the Bayfield 29 is quite substantial and would be a better choice. By the way a Bayfield 25 is really only about a 23 footer if my memory serves me.

[cheoah]

Definitely worth thinking about how you want to spend your time, and a Tayana 37 for $5000 would be a killer deal if by chance you are the luckiest person in the world. Or a millstone around your neck. More than likely its a millstone, but you can sort that out.

Lots of good 30' range boats that will suit your needs. There was an Alberg 30 down my way with a brand new Yanmar for mid teens. I guess it depends on your timeline and many other factors, but here's one more suggestion to pick something simple to maintain and operate.

You mentioned missing the Cape Dory, but they come up all the time. If it is the kind if boat you like, you can probably find one that fits your budget. I sailed one for 5 years, it was simple and easy to singlehand.

[jasterling]

No Illusion. The mast is down for transport. If I don't sell her, I am transporting her to Knoxville via truck. Besides...all the work I did to mast was better performed "down" rather than "up" (no fan of high places, especially, swinging in the wind. LOL)

[John Drake]

I think someone should point out that boats should really be measured by their displacement, not LOA. The greater the displacement, generally, the more space you will have down below.

A high ballast to displacement ratio can....does not always...but can result in better sea handling and a more comfortable motion in a sea way.

But...all of that comes at a cost. The greater the displacement, the more effort it will require to handle the boat. Modern sail handling equipment can make handling bigger and bigger boats easier in one sense, but they cannot lower the amount of WORK. required. Yes, they can lower the amount of Force needed for each motion, but the amount of work will be the same. The one exception would be an in mast roller furling mainsail....but that can have its own issues.

These forces and the resulting work required accelerate quickly as the wind does. Anyone can captain a 49 footer, on a broad reach, offshore in calm seas. Getting one into a slip in a cross current or cross breeze can be difficult. Sailing one offshore in high winds and waves can be taxing.

Long keels had their time, but keep in mind, the present a lot of drag underneath. Especially as fouling occurs....which some amount always will. And then, you are paying a penalty for that in speed or motor sailing efficiency.

Teak....UG....if you are going to live anywhere tropical...I would not even think about it. No matter what you do...unless you let it silver, you will be sanding and varnishing every 6 months.

There are many good sea going boats in the 30-38 ft range. My Wauquiez Hood 38 was about as perfect as a boat could be over the past 11 years that I had her. At 22,000 lbs displacement, with a 50% ballast to displacement ration and a 4.5 ft draft, she did everything for me, in the kindest way, a boat could. I single handed most of the time and I can tell you, there were plenty of days when it was very taxing, very tiring, and I rigged her for easy, simple single handing.

So, here is one plan that might be recommended:

1. Look over the attributes of the well known, well respected offshore cruising boats. The Passport 40 and Valiant 40 come to mind. Moderate displacement. Modified fin keel. Not too deep a draft. high ballast to displacement ratio. Cutter rigged...though having sailed some cutter rigs...I would not go near one [my personal preference would be a solent rig...which you can do yourself, after buying any sloop].

2. Look over the charts where you plan to sail. What is the average depth where you will be anchoring or narrow channels you will be going through. Begin for formulate what your ideal draft will be. Perhaps 5ft or less.

3. Buy a copy of the two volume set, Practical Boat Buying, from Practical Sailor. GREAT information on the construction and build of most of the boats you might consider.

Check out the Bristol 35.5, some of the Tartan's, the Wauquiez Pretorian 35, many many others.

Another book: something about some number of small boats that could take you anywhere...

4. Think about your real use for the boat and your needs. Will she be a dock queen. A liveaboard. A transoceanic cruiser? Do you want a separate shower stall, a larger galley, two private staterooms? Are there good sea berths in the boat.

Then, look at a lot of boats. The right one will find you.

Hope this helps

Best

J

[David_Old_Jersey]

Originally Posted by JK n Smitty

Why do you need to move up? Why do you think your Bayfield 25 is "incapable of offshore sailing"?

My take is that whilst some boats under 30' are capable of offshore adventures nonetheless the folks willing to live on them for extended periods are in a very small minority.

$5k for 37 foot sounds like too good to be true - but sometimes a deal is out there! IMO worth a look if not halfway around the world! and if OP can personally make an assessment on condition and cost (with a survey being obtained only as confirmation / backup).....and likely also being willing to settle on making her "Good to go" rather than "factory fresh" (with own hands), at least until budget permits in later years.

[Delancey]

I always thought the Figaro Solo was a sweet little ride. Designed and built specifically for single handing (racing).

FIGARO (BENETEAU) sailboat specifications and details on sailboatdata.com

[SVStargazer]

My grandparents just offered me the ability to use their 47 ft Beneteau. While it's too big to singlehand and a lot of maintenence, it's also free and capable of offshore sailing with a friend (or several for that matter)

I'm looking to continue working toward a captain's license. It requires 90 days of offshore sailing, of which I have 37. My beloved Bayfield is wonderful for the river I live on and great for building the rest of the required 360 days.

The Tayana is still going to get a good, hard look. It's an unbelievable boat.

[gjordan]

Worship your grandparents. You are one lucky lady. Sail as much as you can, and on as many different boats as you can. The more you sail, the better will be your critical eye when the time comes to buy your own boat. With the 47 you will meet lots of folks with all kinds of boats that you can ask to crew for you, and then ask for a sail on their boat. Its a good way to learn. The Sun, Moon and Stars have lined up for you. ____Grant.

[Vasco]

Originally Posted by John Drake

I think someone should point out that boats should really be measured by their displacement, not LOA. The greater the displacement, generally, the more space you will have down below.


J

Can't agree with this. In non-metal boats the newer construction techniques and materials result in a lighter boat. Used to be you priced a boat by the pound on the assumption that the heavier boat was more robustly constructed but that is not necessarily true anymore. Now flimsier, lighter boats do still exist so you really have to look at the vintage and manufacturer to make a proper determination as to space and an indication of seaworthiness. When and who built the boat tells the most about boats. As for space, length times beam and, of course, interior design. Stowage might depend more on displacement. And perhaps comfort at sea.