batteries running to 0% at night

[sailingharry]

Originally Posted by CaptainRivet

Starlink is 50W per hour, 12h overnight is 600wh/13.5V=44,4AH assuming your starlink is modified to 12V…if not add inverter and you are already at 80AH.

That's 50W, not 50W per hour. Or 50Wh per hour, which is a weird but useful consumption unit for variable loads (my fridge, for instance, runs about 60W when running, but since it has about a 30% duty cycle, is about 20Wh per hour).

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by CaptainRivet

Do you have it on in the pulsing power saving standby mode…cannot do that with compressor fridges and freezers, they need to be on full on.
Solution take a smaller one that run your 24h loads. I prepared for that and kept the old 3x2.5mm main AC cable as a spare in that goes from inverter location to AC switchboard while a new 3x6sqmm connected to switchboard to run all AC loads of eg a full electric galley. The 230V freezer will connect then via breaker it’s circuit to the old ac main cable to a 800W Phönix.

No regular on. Check the specs, power search etc. are way lower than 20W.

If you have 40-60W your install is seriously flawed.

[aberglas]

Why are you guessing the amount of energy (amp hours) draw?


You need meter that will monitor amp hours directly. I have a Xantrax that is fine. I am surprised your Victron does not do this given it seems to have a way to measure current.


Current * Time = Energy, measured in 12 volt amp hours for batteries.