New inverter installation, connection to boat's AC panel, shore power connection

[sv_isara]

Originally Posted by Nor

I've made a drawing. This is 230V.

The 32A going to the galley and 32A going to the AC panel can not be maxed out at the same time, the inverter can't deliver that much, but <32A can be used by the galley and the AC panels (aircons etc) not at the same time, limited by the inverters max output (peak is up to 9000W for 3 sec).

There is a separate existing 12 DC circuit that gets charged from the charger connected to the AC panel, so this circuit is only for the inverter and the AC.

I plan to use Victron bluetooth app for monitoring. I can upgrade with a Cerbo GX etc later if I feel the need.
I don't plan to use the AC out 2 (only active when AC input is connected)

The batteries has internal BMS.

Hey I'm trying to understand your diagram and have a similar question since I have an all-electric galley. Which part in that drawing is the inverter?

[MVDarlin]

This all sounds overly complex. I simply changed my 3 position Blue Sea ac off/shore/gen switch to a 4 position. off/shore/gen/inverter switch.

[Putt-Putt]

edit: they write: "When used in closed conduits cable size should double."
What does this mean?[/QUOTE]

The ampacity (the max. allowable steady state current carrying capacity) of a conductor is a function of a lot of things. One of these things is the ability of the conductor to dissipate (get rid of) the heat caused by the resistance of the conductor itself, without exceeding the insulation's temperature rating.

Should you use standard UL 1426 Battery Cable the insulation is rated at 105º C. in free 30º C. air. This 2 gauge cable has an ampacity of 210 amps, as long as this entire installation is not in the engine room. If it is in the ER, or any place where the air temperature exceeds 30º C, rethink the whole thing, as none of this belongs there.

Putting this conductor in a conduit or sheath (a pipe) to help protect it, reduces it's ability to get rid of the heat. As a result a larger conductor that has less resistance and therefore less heat, is required.

Victron recommends doubling the conductor size, likely after conferring with their lawyers. Maybe overkill, just to try to be safe.

One possible solution is to just route the 2 gauge conductor(s) in a manner that would minimize the possibility of mechanical damage and monitor them closely. Strain relief and cushioned cable clamps at 12" will go a long way to make the installation robust.

This 48V positive 2 gauge conductor along with its brother, the 48V negative unsized conductor will likely vibrated noticeably to touch when the inverter is gobbling large amounts of DC current at 50 Hz. Restraint is important.

[Nor]

Originally Posted by sailingharry

I just re-read your original post, and saw this part. You had responses about the inadvisability of it, etc. But I don't think the question was directly answered.


I'm pretty sure that an AC generator is nothing but a coil spinning in a magnetic field. If you connect shore power to the output of the generator, you will have nearly a dead short (just some resistance, and because it is A/C, some inductance -- but basically just a few ohms). If you connect shore power to the output of the generator, at best you will trip the breaker, at worst fry your generator. Forget any safety issues, or best practices, or ABYC compliance, or anything like that. It just won't work!

Thanks, yes I understand now that I need to a switch between them!

Originally Posted by sv_sharky

Hey I'm trying to understand your diagram and have a similar question since I have an all-electric galley. Which part in that drawing is the inverter?

It's in the middle, called Multi RS, it's a inverter/charger/solar controller. https://www.victronenergy.com/invert...multi-rs-solar

Originally Posted by MVDarlin

This all sounds overly complex. I simply changed my 3 position Blue Sea ac off/shore/gen switch to a 4 position. off/shore/gen/inverter switch.

Simplicity is nice! However I need to connect AC (shore/generator) to the inverter/charger anyway to charge the batteries when needed. So I think it would be more complex with a switch like that in addition to connecting AC to the inverter/charger.

Originally Posted by Putt-Putt

This 48V positive 2 gauge conductor along with its brother, the 48V negative unsized conductor will likely vibrated noticeably to touch when the inverter is gobbling large amounts of DC current at 50 Hz. Restraint is important.

I hadn't thought about this. You mean that the cables will vibrate and this can cause chafing on the cable? Why is the DC current 50hz? Do you mean that some AC will leak into the DC battery cables?

[Putt-Putt]

Originally Posted by Nor

I hadn't thought about this. You mean that the cables will vibrate and this can cause chafing on the cable? Why is the DC current 50hz? Do you mean that some AC will leak into the DC battery cables?

Your inverter is in simple terms, a switching power supply, turning itself on and off 50 times a second. The DC current from the batteries flows in large part, at this same frequency. This DC current flow causes the vibration in the battery cables. The amplitude is small, you might consider this vibration a hum.

Chafe is unlikely, but restraint remains important.

There should be no AC leak to the DC side.

[s/v Jedi]

Read and learn: https://www.victronenergy.com/live/_...ery_system.pdf