Advice on installing pad eyes.

[jkindredpdx]

My main Padeyes are centerline one aft of the anchor winch at the bow and one aft of the (center) cockpit with 2 jacklines running the length of the boat, one on each side of the mast... I clip my tether into the line windward of the mast.

[Myknjul]

In a related question... I'd like to install pad eyes down the centerline of my deck to keep from going over the lifelines. I've never screwed anything into the deck. What size screws would be most appropriate for this. Would you just use a good sealant with this or an adhesive like 5200?

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by SVTwilight

Recent field studies in the UK demonstrate the .8m tether is more survivable than the 1.5m tether (as you wont dangle so far over the boat that your head gets dragged and you drown from that), so there is an argument for multiple padeyes in any given cockpit environment. We currently have three in ours.

I get that shorter tethers have advantages, but to my knowledge 6 feet/3 feet are standard lengths, even UK. I believe the Aussy drop test is on a 6-foot tether. Reference please.

[Brob2]

Originally Posted by jkindredpdx

My main Padeyes are centerline one aft of the anchor winch at the bow and one aft of the (center) cockpit with 2 jacklines running the length of the boat, one on each side of the mast... I clip my tether into the line windward of the mast.

My setup was similar, padeyes abaft the primary winches (aft cockpit), jacklines tied off at the bow cleats.

[jkindredpdx]

Originally Posted by Myknjul

In a related question... I'd like to install pad eyes down the centerline of my deck to keep from going over the lifelines. I've never screwed anything into the deck. What size screws would be most appropriate for this. Would you just use a good sealant with this or an adhesive like 5200?

I through bolt with a backing plate and I think bedding with 3M 4200... since as the bumper sticker says..."friends don't let friends use 5200"

[alaskaflyfish]

Thanks for the timely advice. I thought center low in the cockpit was the best place but also considered it a trip hazard. There are already so many things to trip over already (as I prove daily) that I thought up higher might be better. However, just now I have come to solution. I can buy as many as I like and put them in multiple locals. It's not like they are extravagantly expensive. I don't like the idea of drilling holes in the boat but the idea of falling in the drink is much less preferable. So,, I digress,,, what would a newbie like me do without CF to broaden my myopia. Now, where to route these lifelines....

[Lars_L]

If you mount the pad eye with regular stainless A4 screws, the screws will break before the pad eye. You new screws with a strength classification of at least 50 but better with 70.
At the top of a flat-headed screw there is stamped the material, for example A4. On strength classified screws there will also be stamped the class, for example 70.

[Cheechako]

I used something like this; but with 3/8" threads.
Ronstan U-Bolt - Stepped - 38mm(1-1/2") Stud - RF559 Room for two Wichard snaps.

[rognvald]

One through-bolted folding pad eye with a gasket(no rattle) at the companionway bridge and two sturdy fixed pad eyes(through-bolted on deck) to port and starboard of the helm. When I exit the companionway on a port tack, I clip to the port jack line en route to the fixed pad eyes at the helm. Use the largest backing plate possible to spread the load behind the companionway pad eye since the wall is probably 3/8" glass rather than a sandwiched core. You can use starboard, ply, aluminum or SS. As others have mentioned, a shorter tether line is preferable. As an aside, we only use our jack lines at night or when it gets lumpy and/or in confused seas. Good luck and safe sailing.

[Paul Elliott]

As long as we're discussing tethers, please do not use tethers with standard non-locking carabiners. It is shockingly easy for these to unclip themselves from a padeye -- it's as if they were designed to come loose on purpose. They aren't as bad when clipped to a jackline, but I won't have them on my boat.

And you should use a harness-end attachment that can be released under load (such as when you are being dragged behind the boat). And/or have a knife handy so you can cut yourself free. People will argue about this, but at least listen to the arguments before you make your equipment choices.

[thericksster]

What's a pad eye and what's it for. What I really want to know is what this sphere is that came with my boat? It's probably a little over a foot in diameter and has 3 spheres to make a globe shape.

[jkindredpdx]

Originally Posted by thericksster

What's a pad eye and what's it for. What I really want to know is what this sphere is that came with my boat? It's probably a little over a foot in diameter and has 3 spheres to make a globe shape.

Look at Cheechako post
Ronstan U-Bolt - Stepped - 38mm(1-1/2") Stud - RF559 Room for two Wichard snaps.

Your sphere's probably a RADAR reflector...

[roverhi]

Have a padeye on the cockpit sole with a permanently attached line about 8' long. That allows me to hookup while still in the cabin. More than one sailor has been lost when they climbed on deck untethered and were washed or knocked over board before they could hook up. Also have jack lines from a few feet act of the bow ending even with the helm down either side of the boat. Hook onto this when going forward before disconnecting from cockpit tether. I'm never untethered when on deck.

[barnakiel]

Better not to get dragged behind the boat. The leash too long. Or hooked in too far from the centerline.

b.

[leftbrainstuff]

Originally Posted by alaskaflyfish

Hi all,
I have just purchased 2 pad eyes to attach a tether and safety harness. https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/prod...ers-29409.html
The only question I have at the moment is where on the boat is the best place to put them. My boat is an Albin Vega 27ft. I have looked around my local marina to find some examples of placement but have found none. Is the best place up high, down low, in the middle of the cockpit? I can think of both good and bad reasons regarding placement. Any seasoned advice and reasoning would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance, Cheers.

Somewhere central and with backing plates.

Assume a static load factor of safety of 4:1 for hardware, backing plate, tether and hardware. Min spec.

You may need to beef it up to minimize deflection.

Up high is best but tricky to achieve on a yacht.

Look for a location which allows you to have the shortest tether and still be functional.



Sent from my SM-N900T using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app