Anchor System on smaller boat

[jpmesa]

My wife & I have down graded to a Catalina Capri 26 with 9.9 outboard. Our problem is setting up a good Anchoring system. We are both pushing seventy so are day of hand pulling are over. And jury rigging to the sheets winches is a real pain and you never want to anchor out just for lunch, etc. I was thinking about upgrading our batteries & maybe try and use a Honda 1000 or 2000 generator to give it that extra boost. I can build a box in front of the mast for the Honda, etc. Any one out there know if this can work or tried? Any other ideas! Mahalo

PS: boat: 5,200 lbs, 17 lbs anchor, 1/4" chain & 1/2 line.
Maybe 100 to 120 lbs. x 4 for safety margin
a small windless are about 500 to newer 700, that is about 500 to 700 pounds of pull

[wingless]

The concern for gasoline powered portable generator usage is CO poisoning.

Yes, it is possible to get a functional system, but safety first.

[Pete7]

That's kind of an interesting question. You don't say were you are or what the anchor is, but remember the Honda will output mains voltage so that's a nice beefy inverter needed too. Not something I would want on deck if the weather turn nasty and waves are splashing everywhere whilst you try and lift the anchor.

I think this would be a brilliant use of a small LifePO4 battery system up near the bows to power the windlass and then charge the battery up later at your convenience.

[Training Wheels]

Get an aluminum anchor to save some weight and pull up by hand. Have your wife motor up to the anchor to make it easy.

[thinwater]

For lunch, try a much lighter anchor. An 8- to 12-pound new generation anchor should be enough. Reduce the chain to 10 feet. Not much to pull.

The boat will push the boat up to the anchor and break it out. You should only be lifting the weight of anchor and chain, which you should be able to get down to less than 20 pounds.

Even if you go with a windlass, you do NOT need a generator. A small windlass is no more pull than starting a car. If you have, say, two marine batteries and a small solar panel to keep them up, you have plenty.

But really, you should be able to lighten the system and get the engine to do the heavy work. I've gone through some really bad back periods. You can learn the tricks.

[Don C L]

Well, the Capri is a small boat. Which 17lb anchor is that? It may be a tad too big. But beside that, the foredeck doesn't have much room for a generator, does it? What kind of places are you anchoring? I had a couple thoughts. If you just ran the anchor off the stern on a roller (off at an angle since you have a reverse transom,) say with 30' of 1/4" chain and the rest nylon, you could then more easily use the sheet winches, or a dedicated separate winch, and then raise the chain by hand. Once anchored you'd just have to walk the nylon rode to the bow to cleat it off there if you wanted too. On second glance though, I see you may not have a good place to stow the rode in the stern. Well then, 2 Trojan T-105s batteries would do the trick I think, with a moveable solar panel to replace the electrons as needed. Also, I am guessing your 9.9 does not have an alternator, but if it did that is another way to recharge what is lost. You won't be using the windlass that often, right?

[rslifkin]

If the issue of managing chain isn't a big deal, you could probably mount a sheet winch on the foredeck to use. Or go for a manual windlass if you want it to pull the chain. I know Muir makes some that are a vertical style and operate more like a sailboat winch, not sure if anyone else does. Most manual windlasses are horizontal with a back and forth action to operate.

[JPA Cate]

He did write "mahalo" in his post. Maybe from the Hawaiian Is.... So, mostly anchoring in sand or mud and sand with shell. A small windlass could make it a lot easier, and he's not going to get any younger, and he's 70 now. Not a Fortress, too bad, but inability to reset following tide swing is a problem where shell and coral "rocks" can jam it. Any properly sized "new generation" anchor, whichever he can get a good deal on, 'cause anchors are pricey.

Ann

[SV__Grace]

Most of us turn on the engine before using the windlass, which provides power for the windlass beyond the battery capacity as well as being ready to go after the anchor is up. A manual windlass might be all you need for mechanical advantage under load and saves a lot of hassle with electrical connections.

I've had two boats about the size of yours, a Catalina 27 and an Ericson 25, both had outboards and no windlass and not much room to install one, but it's possible if desired.

However, even us old guys can get an anchor up using mechanical leverage, especially on a smaller, lighter boat and anchor like yours, here's how-

First, manually pull up the rode until you're over the anchor, use the engine if there's a load due to a strong current or wind.

Then, for the final 20 feet or so to break out the anchor and get it on deck, use one of the following-

Option A: Spare halyard, typically spinnaker halyard. Hitch the halyard to the rode and let the mast winch do the work to get the anchor up and over the bow pulpit.

Option B: Use a block and tackle, similar to this, which gives you plenty of leverage so you can easily pull the anchor up. I purchased one used at a swap meet and its come in handy many times. It can be used for lifting a MOB as well as getting yourself up a mast!

[jpmesa]

Thanks for all the answers & ideas.
The 17 lbs is for overnight I prefer one size up. I find I sleep a lot better & don't worry about the boat when ashore. I have a Fortress for lunch. When we did the SP tour back in the early 80's we always had to started the engine to ease forward & to boost the batteries before we weighed anchor. Batteries have improved a lot since than. That would be great if we could get the power (amps) just using batteries. I already have solar panels. We would still use the outboard to ease forward
Thanks again, JOHN

[thomm225]

I'm close to your situation as a mid 60's person with a 20 lb CQR on a 6600 lb Disp boat. (w/outboard)

I have pulled the anchor 3X today the last in 15-18 knots to move.

You just have to take your time and then pull straight up at the end when the chain appears as you probably know. I have like 40' heavy chain.

Also, you should start a workout routine especially at your age when you need to maintain your muscles.

I try to run 2.5 -3 miles once a week and do 25 push ups and 5-7 pull ups before the run plus lots of stretching......

[Quadrille in JB]

I was facing the same problem with our two 44# anchors with 100’ of 5/16” chain. Not wanting to sacrifice space in the v-berth and lots of heavy wiring we choose a Lofrans Royal manual windlass. It takes all of the strain off my f my back and is surprisingly fast and easy to operate.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by jpmesa

... That would be great if we could get the power (amps) just using batteries. I already have solar panels. We would still use the outboard to ease forward
Thanks again, JOHN

Remember, it is amp hours that matter, and a windlass should only be pulling high load for a few moments when breaking out. So long as the wire from the windlass to the battery is the correct size, that is enough. The engine doesn't even need to be running, through many are hung up on that. If it makes a difference, it is because something is wrong with the wiring. An outboard does not put out enough charging power to matter one way or the other.

[Training Wheels]

It’s a 26’ boat. Not bragging, but I don’t have a windlass on our 44’ tri, and I’m 60 years old. Get an aluminum anchor. If you’re not comfortable with a fortress for a bower (used one for years with no issues), get an aluminum Spade or Sarca Excel. Motor up to it, tie it off, and let the boat break it loose.