View Poll Results: Which keel joint sealant do you prefer?
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Sikaflex 291
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3 |
13.04% |
3M 4200
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6 |
26.09% |
3M 5200
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10 |
43.48% |
Other
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2 |
8.70% |
No winner - they all do the job
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2 |
8.70% |
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29-05-2019, 06:37
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Lacolle Quebec
Boat: Tanzer 8.5 #51
Posts: 163
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keel joint sealant - which one?
Lots of threads but no clear winner. At my local chandlery, I asked about Sikaflex 291 and 3M 4200. They said both are good but they use the dreaded 5200.
Which one do you prefer?
Here is the job I need to finish.
__________________
Markus
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29-05-2019, 07:11
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#2
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cruiser
Join Date: Jan 2017
Boat: Retired from CF
Posts: 13,317
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Re: keel joint sealant - which one?
They wouldn't if they were the ones separating the join in future years
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29-05-2019, 07:22
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Skagit City, WA
Posts: 25,477
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Re: keel joint sealant - which one?
If you are just pasting in to fill the gap it's no big deal. The real sealant needs to be inside on assembly and you're not doing that. It's cosmetic. Use something flexible and paintable. 5200 wont be an issue to fill that gap at all and will release if you ever need to pull the keel off the hull. It sands and paints well.
__________________
"I spent most of my money on Booze, Broads and Boats. The rest I wasted" - Elmore Leonard
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29-05-2019, 07:37
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2015
Boat: Bruce Bingham Christina 49
Posts: 3,328
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Re: keel joint sealant - which one?
Agree, use 5200 and wear nitrile gloves. Don't rush the launch if using "regular" and allow for full cure (~7 days) or use the fast cure (~24 hrs.)
Bill O.
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29-05-2019, 07:56
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,007
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Re: keel joint sealant - which one?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheechako
If you are just pasting in to fill the gap it's no big deal. The real sealant needs to be inside on assembly and you're not doing that. It's cosmetic. Use something flexible and paintable. 5200 wont be an issue to fill that gap at all and will release if you ever need to pull the keel off the hull. It sands and paints well.
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Like ^^^^^^ says! This is a cosmetic repair. use anything rated for underwater use (except silicone!) 5200 will work. I hate that stuff for almost everything, but this is a perfect application. Don't listen to the people who say you will glue your keel on forever.
If you keel is leaking, you won't fix it this way, all you are really doing here is fairing the surface before painting.
I have done this repair very successfully with West System G/Flex epoxy. West System somewhere posted detailed instructions on how-to. Follow them exactly if you do it that way.
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29-05-2019, 07:56
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 458
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Re: keel joint sealant - which one?
5200 hands down-
it is an adhesive but also is the strongest if surface clean when applying.
looking at your joint it will easily be cut if you choose to pull apart.
was keel off? thats a huge joint - I wonder whats inside?
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29-05-2019, 08:10
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Morro Bay, CA
Boat: Herreshoff 28 modified ketch- wood
Posts: 379
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Re: keel joint sealant - which one?
Why not Splashzone? Two part epoxy mixes up in water and no gloves. Molds in like wet potters clay.
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29-05-2019, 08:16
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Skagit City, WA
Posts: 25,477
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Re: keel joint sealant - which one?
Quote:
Originally Posted by bailsout
Why not Splashzone? Two part epoxy mixes up in water and no gloves. Molds in like wet potters clay.
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Maybe, is it flexible? Better if it is...
__________________
"I spent most of my money on Booze, Broads and Boats. The rest I wasted" - Elmore Leonard
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29-05-2019, 08:29
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Morro Bay, CA
Boat: Herreshoff 28 modified ketch- wood
Posts: 379
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Re: keel joint sealant - which one?
Cheechako,
Not certain of it’s flexibility. I used it mostly as bonds on the iron ballast and occasionally on the seam to wooden keel. Never noticed any cracking but I don’t think my ballast moves much on a full keel.
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29-05-2019, 09:29
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Montreal
Boat: Dufour 39 Frers
Posts: 402
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Re: keel joint sealant - which one?
Do NOT use 5200 if you do not need strong bonding and structural work. 5200 is almost impossible to remove because of its bounding strength.
If you ever have the need to remove the seal in the futur you will hate yourself.
I am a fan of Boat Life Life-Calk rather than Sikaflex 291.
And Boat Life Life-Seal rather than 3M 5200
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29-05-2019, 17:53
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Lacolle Quebec
Boat: Tanzer 8.5 #51
Posts: 163
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Re: keel joint sealant - which one?
I appreciate all the comments...keep 'em comin'!
No Leaks. The fin keel is bolted into ~1 inch recess in hull. The integrity of the joint was compromised and I am just re-doing it. Regular maintenance?
Maybe 5200 is the way to go to extend maintenance intervals?
Last year, all I did was paint the keel with Tremclad anti-rust paint. After the Rust Check Rust Converter. Each year since starting this process, I see less rust. It was bad. Last picture is a before shot.
__________________
Markus
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29-05-2019, 19:30
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Live aboard
Posts: 38
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Re: keel joint sealant - which one?
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkusK
I appreciate all the comments...keep 'em comin'!
No Leaks. The fin keel is bolted into ~1 inch recess in hull. The integrity of the joint was compromised and I am just re-doing it. Regular maintenance?
Maybe 5200 is the way to go to extend maintenance intervals?
Last year, all I did was paint the keel with Tremclad anti-rust paint. After the Rust Check Rust Converter. Each year since starting this process, I see less rust. It was bad. Last picture is a before shot.
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I agree with Emouchet. Don't use 5200. Also, if you read the 3M fine print they don't recommend 5200 for constant submersion applications. All you need is a good fairing compound and I would recommend the Boat life polysulfide compound or epoxy filled with glass bubbles which makes it easy to sand.
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22-09-2019, 18:55
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Montreal, Canada
Boat: Hylas 44
Posts: 215
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Re: keel joint sealant - which one?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jack630
I agree with Emouchet. Don't use 5200. Also, if you read the 3M fine print they don't recommend 5200 for constant submersion applications. All you need is a good fairing compound and I would recommend the Boat life polysulfide compound or epoxy filled with glass bubbles which makes it easy to sand.
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Should be really fine print or another false new ... Here is the link to the description and a link to the technical data sheet:
Description
3MTM Marine Adhesive/Sealant 5200 is a one-part polyurethane that chemically reacts with moisture to deliver strong, flexible bonds. It has excellent adhesion to wood, gelcoat and fiberglass. It forms a watertight, weather-resistant seal on joints and boat hardware, above and below the waterline. In addition, its flexibility allows for dissipation of stress caused by shock, vibration, swelling or shrinking.
Link: https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/...-tech-data.pdf
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22-09-2019, 20:16
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#14
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cruiser
Join Date: Jan 2017
Boat: Retired from CF
Posts: 13,317
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Re: keel joint sealant - which one?
Yes 5200 is fine underwater.
But only for bonding components that will never need separating later.
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22-09-2019, 20:36
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Bumping around the Caribbean
Boat: Valiant 40
Posts: 4,625
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Re: keel joint sealant - which one?
I can only think that everyone saying don't use 5200 because you'll never get it off has never actually used the stuff.
Everything on my deck was bedded with 5200 when the boat was built in 1986, and two years ago I stripped the deck to paint it, taking off everything. Yes, I needed a car jack to get the traveller arch off, but it came off, and so did 400 bolts and dozens of stanchions, deck fittings, etc.. And everything looked like it had been bedded the week before. No leaks after 31 years. I almost put everything down with 5200 again as I'd be dead by the time it needed to be done again. It has a bad rap given it's tenacity, but that's it's problem. It's *too* good. Not a bad problem to have.
5200 is the preferred sealant below the water line. It adheres better than pretty much any other product, is flexible, and easy to work with. It comes off with DeBond (or whatever it's called now), and heat and/or pressure.
I used 5200 to "fair" the keel stub and lead joint when I redid my bottom around 5 years ago and it's in perfect condition.
Do not use any sort of fairing compound for that joint, or epoxy. It will just crack in a relatively short period of time. That's from personal experience.
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"Having a yacht is reason for being more cheerful than most." -Kurt Vonnegut
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