How to do an oil change on my Yanmar 3JH5E on a 2011 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 409

[Cool Hand Luke]

I just did a trip from St. Croix, USVI, to Florida. I put over 100 hours on the engine. I'd like to do an oil change and anything else you guys think I need. I'd love to get some support and help on what to do, how to do it, where to get the parts, etc.

I have a 40hp Yanmar 3JH5E engine in my 2011 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 409. I'm looking to take it up to NY/NJ area from Florida next month and would like to do any maintenance before the trip.

I'm new to boat ownership, since I just got the boat last November. I'm a quick learner and would like to do as much as possible on my own for experience and gain of knowledge.

Thanks!

[sailah]

Page 72

http://www.yanmarmarine.com/theme/ya...JHM-EN0023.pdf

Here's what I'd do on a new to me engine:

Run the engine and let it warm up. Shut down and let cool for a bit. Warm oil flows better. Remove oil filler cap on top of cylinder head cover.

While engine is cooling gather supplies. I like to have a clean funnel, some rags etc. I also use a small hand pump to extract the oil. My Westerbeke has a special hose for this that I made up a fitting to attach my pump. Unscrew the engine hose cap, thread on my fitting & pump. Extract oil into old gallon containers. I don't know if you have this on your Yanmar. An extraction pump is well worth the money to avoid getting dirty oil everywhere. If not you'll need to drain it by finding the drain plug assuming you have an engine catch pan.

So now you need to remove the filter. I use oil filter pliers. Once I can turn the filter by hand I slip a plastic bag over it so that when the oil in the filter spills it goes in the bag not all over the engine or bilge.

Check to ensure your old oil filter o ring didn't stick to the block. Take your new oil filter and open your new oil jug. Dip your finger in the clean oil and smear a light coat of oil on the filter o ring. Thread the filter on carefully and be sure it goes on smoothly. If it doesn't, stop and make sure you're doing it right. Run it in until you can't turn by hand anymore. I put about 1/4 turn after that with my oil filter pliers. Don't overtighten.

Replace however your oil drains out. Whether it's the hose cap like I have or a drain plug. DON'T OVERTIGHTEN.

Take your clean funnel and put in filler cap. Add 75% of the oil in the specs. Check the level with your dipstick. Add oil slowly until it reaches the full mark. Replace filler cap. Start engine, check for leaks with a flashlight. Shut down and check level once cooled for 20 minutes.

Other things I would personally check or replace since you're in maintenance mode.

Check:

alternator belt tension
heat exchanger not salted up
water pump">raw water pump impeller (personally I'd just replace it if unknown age and keep for spare assuming in good shape)
Air filter
Coolant level (after it has cooled)


Replace:

Zinc anode in heat exchanger (keep spares)
Secondary fuel filter
Racor filters. Note how dirty the sediment bowl is and if any water is present
Change gear oil


I do this list every year when I put boat in the water. I also clean my engine compartment because if it's dirty you won't want to work in there and if you don't want to work on it, you'll ignore potential issues which become problems if left unattended. Make a habit to familiarize yourself with the various engine components and where they are located. Everything looks complicated until you identify the various parts then it all starts to make sense.

Most any part for your engine has a cross reference. So look up the Yanmar filter number and save what you find in your gmail account so you can look it up in the auto parts store. I personally prefer Wix, NAPA, Baldwin and Purolator filters. I won't use Fram. I also always use Shell Rotella 15W-40 diesel oil but oil preference is subjective.

[Cool Hand Luke]

Originally Posted by sailah

I do this list every year when I put boat in the water. I also clean my engine compartment because if it's dirty you won't want to work in there and if you don't want to work on it, you'll ignore potential issues which become problems if left unattended. Make a habit to familiarize yourself with the various engine components and where they are located. Everything looks complicated until you identify the various parts then it all starts to make sense.

Thank you for the link and for all the insight!! Can't wait to work on it this weekend. The boat needs some care and I need some relaxation and to take my mind off of work. I'll try to post some photos this weekend.

Thanks, again!!

[David M]

The best way for many engines is not to remove the oil pan drain plug but to pump the oil up through the dip stick tube.

That is what the Cummins says to do for my engines.

[wingless]

On my boat I designed and installed a custom high-volume five-zone oil change system. For the engines, I removed the oil pan drain plug and replaced them with banjo bolts w/ NPTF side openings that I connected to hose barbs for the system.

When I installed the system the oil pan sump was full of old dirty oil, so I removed the plug, obstructed the path w/ my finger, then installed the banjo bolt. I kept repeating the process until I had a hose that extended above the oil sump level, for no flow. A few sheets of newspaper below the pan caught the small spills.

Mine has bronze pump gears, so I do the quick change on just-run hot engine oil.

[epiic]

I use one of these:
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-...17?recordNum=4

I also use Shell Rotella T3 15W-40 with factory oil filter.

You should also consider replacing both primary and secondary fuel filters.

How many hours does your engine have? When was the last time you replaced the impeller?

[Cheechako]

-Get one of those vacuum changers. You stick the tube down the dipstick hole, pump a vacuum and it pulls the oil out. You can leave it right in the unit until you can dump it. No transfer of oil, less mess etc. Heat up the engine first. I even use it on my cars now. Get one big enough for your engine oil.. probably 6 quart.
-Change the filter, make sure you have oil absorbent pads to put under the filter change area. Make sure the old filter gasket doesn't stick on the engine or the new will leak bad.
-Fill with oil, run, check for leaks. DOne.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Maxpower-...&wl13=&veh=sem

[LeakyScupper]

This post comes up #1 when Googling "Yanmar 3JH5E Oil Capacity," however an earlier reply guesstimates 6 quarts and google now uses that as a shortcut answer without it being confirmed as accurate. Thanks, Google.

After just changing the oil on my 2012 Sun Odyssey 409 with a Yanmar 3JH5E, I can report that I was able to extract just under 4 quarts through the dipstick tube with an electric extractor pump.

The oil level was in the middle of the stick before I did the change. After replacing 4 quarts of new oil, the oil level showed right at the top of the stick.

To avoid overfilling the oil on these engines, I recommend assuming it has a 4 quart capacity. While I'm sure the extractor pump didn't get 100% of what is in the pan, it's not going to leave two quarts behind. If I need to top off after the next run of the engine, I'll update this reply with the amount.

[Cool Hand Luke]

Originally Posted by LeakyScupper

To avoid overfilling the oil on these engines, I recommend assuming it has a 4 quart capacity. While I'm sure the extractor pump didn't get 100% of what is in the pan, it's not going to leave two quarts behind. If I need to top off after the next run of the engine, I'll update this reply with the amount.

Good point! However, I'm more and more worried that my 12V extractor doesn't get all of the oil out through the dipstick tube