w30 seized- Pearson 35

[jpmcabe]

Finally had a chance to start working on my P35 this weekend and realized my w30 is totally seized - at end of last season my exhaust had rusted through before the elbow and was working on fixing that when I decided I should crank it over to check things and totally frozen
I had winterized like normal- so don't know what happened - mustve had water inside somewhere that rusted
Im wondering if it is worth trying to fix - pulling the head and working on it in boat? (boat is in water)
Boat is in pretty good shape and has had a lot of work- but I don't think it is worth the cost of a repower.
Also looking for options of just getting rid of it- (would have to be towed out)

Thanks for any advise

[a64pilot]

It’s worth maybe pulling the injectors and pouring a liberal amount of Marvel Mystery oil or similar into each cylinder, you can’t put too much in, it just fills up is all.
Let it sit a day or two and then with a breaker bar on the big bolt on the crankshaft try to rock it one way or the other.
I’ve seen some broken loose that way, that actually ran well afterwards burning little or no oil.

If that doesn’t work, then I’m of the opinion it’s pull and overhaul the motor

[jpmcabe]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

It’s worth maybe pulling the injectors and pouring a liberal amount of Marvel Mystery oil or similar into each cylinder, you can’t put too much in, it just fills up is all.
Let it sit a day or two and then with a breaker bar on the big bolt on the crankshaft try to rock it one way or the other.
I’ve seen some broken loose that way, that actually ran well afterwards burning little or no oil.

If that doesn’t work, then I’m of the opinion it’s pull and overhaul the motor

Yes- thanks- I have already done that and sprayed wd and pb blaster in cylinders
I can't seem to get the retainers with the 2 nuts out- but could pull out the insides of injector caps... (don't know a lot about diesels)

Are parts avail for a rebuild of W30?- any recos in CT area?

Thanks

[jimbunyard]

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...-a-186854.html

[Cpt Mark]

depending how bad it's corroded together will determine your future. I had a back siphon on my Perkins 4-107 (they are notorious for that). Pulled the injectors and poured Kroil (The only penetrant allowed in aircraft) down the holes a few times a day. Took my breaker bar and added a length of conduit so it was longer and just tried to rock it back and forth. Took a couple of weeks but it finally started moving. Another week and I could turn it over. Fired it up and it ran great. Patience .

[NorthCoastJoe]

If all fails before pulling the engine out try chilling the pistons with dry ice or CO2 fire extinguisher. The pistons will contract faster than the iron around them.

Then use 6 foot pipe on a breaker bar, go with a 3/4" breaker bar with a solid slide. Work fast when you do it, be great if you had a helper setting the dry ice on the pistons while you handled the breaker bar.

My father did this with the head off and it worked for him 40 years ago.

[Hoodsail]

JPMCabe; i have bought parts (water pump, oil /air filters, heat exchanger zinc) for my W30 (1978) from Hansen Marine out of Marblehead, ma. So would contact them for more serious parts (pistons, rings, valves, etc). No CT source for old w30 parts that i am aware of...shipping charge on top of expensive parts adds insult to injury...she runs like a well-oiled watch tho....good luck

[jpmcabe]

Thank you all for the info- I will keep posting with the progress and outcome