Morgan 33 Out Island Owners?

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Harmony 33

Thanks! I'll look into that also . Figured it may cost too much. But can I have his info?

See my edit above.
It's been a while though.
a bracket and outboard isn't going to be cheap. It's going to be hard to reach controls for sure. Get 'er fixed!

Is it just overheating or...?

[Harmony 33]

Overheated, guzzling coolant by the gallon and spitting water towards the front section of the engine. I suspect corrosion and a whole and more.

[Cheechako]

Just thinking out loud here.... a mechanic could suggest options for short term or find the proper fix.
If it's in the fresh water heat exchanger, I wonder if temporarily you couldn't bypass the fresh cooling system and just run salt water cooling through the engine? Many boats were sold that way anyway.
You really need someone to look at it. A big leak sounds like something fixable and possibly easy...

[Harmony 33]

Def gonna get it checked out asap..


Thank you so much. Will keep ya updated!

[Dave22q]

Originally Posted by jwiencek

Thanks Artful Dodger... I have a few items on my mind right now ... I don't mean to steal the thread but you are replying and I could use help as well.

1. Let's start with your name. We want to get a dodger or some sort of windshield on the front of the boat. We bought her with an off-the-shelf bimini installed that was 6+ ft from cockpit floor to top. That was in the way of the boom, so the prior owner put the topping lift up a ways to clear the top of the bimini and actually wrapped the sail around the rear of the boom to make it all work. The sail shape was lousy and we simply could not bear to see such an non-elegant solution. We have cut the bimini down now to gain clearance but its still close. I am now annoyed with the 5 ft 8 in floor to bimini height (I am 5 ft 11 in tall). My mechanic wants to weld on a new hinge and move the gooseneck up. I am trying to keep costs in line. Did you deal with this is some way? If so, what was your solution?

The estimates for a new bimini and wind shield is coming in at about $4000 - does that seem reasonable?

2. Stern rail seats - do you have them? How did you install?

3. Shaft slippage. We took the boat out for a motor only cruise to use up the old fuel. I had it going full power and could not get it above 2600 rpm or so. Clearly the prop is oversized for the engine (Perkins 4-108 50 hp). In any case, we made it home fine but next time I went to use the boat, the engine would not engage ... I check below and found the shaft had slipped off the coupling. My mechanic helped get it back on but he said he had never seen 4 set screws used to hold a shaft, so he is betting that it has happened before. Have you experienced this? If so, what was your solution? I am thinking of just drilling deep holes for the set screw to penetrate... maybe even threading the holes.

4. Davits. We are thinking about it ... did you get them? If so, what have you learned or recommend?

5. Galley Maid Stove. I was amazed that 2 out the 3 burners worked first time out the gate. The third one is not getting any ethanol. I need to clean it out ... any advice where to look for a blockage first?

6. What did you do to get her to sail much better? I am new to sailing large boats (I have a ton of experience on small boats like Sunfish) and it took some time to have success at coming about during a tack - and I still have difficulty at times. Its a bit embarrassing - but Tampa Bay is big enough to make such mistakes. Right now, I turn the helm slowly (but not too slow) and let her backwind to get it over. Works about 80% of the time. Its harder going from port to starboard tack. My theory is windage cause by poor boat balance (see next item).

7. Boat balance. It seems to be low in the water in the stern (all that engine weight) and also when I fill the water tanks it does seem to have a slight starboard list ( the aft water tank is on the starboard) ... do you notice this as well?

Sorry for all the questions, but you offered

Thanks

John

1- bought mine with bimini onboard. just cleared the boom under sail. just use topping lift in port. I'm 5-10 so you should be able to make it work. I removed because the supports IMHO are a pain. Relocating the boom sounds bad to me.
2-no. I cannot see a need.
3- not my expertise. I would spend to buy some and not jury rig anything.
4- i have davits, also cut stern rail to access my dinghy.
5-?
6- I's a Morgan--solid, slow, sturdy in a storm. never a racer. Practice should help your jibing issues.
7- Mine had several hundred pounds of lead in the bow. When the bow tank is low she is slightly stern heavy. I seldom use the back up tank so no opinion on that (my 4 batterys) dwarf the weight of the water tank and she lies flat.
Hope this helps. Enjoy your new boat.

[Dave22q]

Hi Harmony,
My Morgan had an off center outboard bracket when I got it. The bracket is way too low to reach outboard controls from the cockpit and hard to reach from the swim platform. I got a Torqueed electric outboard with remote controls to use as a stern thruster. If you want temporary power for a moderate run I would sister a dinghy with at least a 10 hp outboard. that would require 1 in the dinghy and 1 in the Morgan. Does not sound like much fun. Good luck.

[Rotorjoc]

Does anyone know who the 1977 OI 33's were numbered for their HIH? looking at the CG document but don't see it listed there.

Thanks,

Tom

[SailMihaly]

Hi all!
We're in the final stages of purchasing a 1976 33 Morgan OI & are researching costs for a few things the survey found that need to be fixed. Does anyone have a 33 Owners Manual they would be able to share?

The few concerns/negotiating pieces we're looking into:

1. Prop Shaft & Prop need to be replaced due to corrosion. Anyone done this? It looks like you need to take the rudder completely off to do this which will be a pain. Can anyone share the specs of the prop shaft & prop?

2. Bolts connecting the rudder to the hull on the stainless steel piece at the bottom need replaced.

3. Slight osmosis on the hull with intermittent blisters that are not fully formed. They're pretty small & the surveyor didn't seem to concerned with them. Has anyone redone their hull because of blistering?

4. One thru hull needs replaced due to corrosion.

5. Half of the Seacocks were redone with plastic pieces (yikes). Need to replace those with bronze or something much sturdier.

6. Topping lift is totally fixed. Need to fix that. Jib halyard needs redone as well.

7. Windows are leaking & he has 4 SS replacements, but there are 7 windows on the boat... Anyone have a good spot to find windows as we would want them to match.

8. Has been leaking in the forward hatch & v-berth cushions most likely need replaced due to potential for mildew.

9. Doesn't have a lot of electronics, but planning on doing a tablet with Navionics so we're not too concerned with this...

Any top tips/advice/thoughts or recommendations would be much appreciated! We're super excited about this boat - seems the overall bones are good, but (as always) there are a few issues!

Also - do any of the owners use FB more? Would be fun to create an active owners groups as it seems like it's a bit tricky to find!

Thanks!
Sydney & Dalton

[Dave22q]

Mine very similar to yours. Couple of things-- topping lift fixed at the mast head, you adjust at the boom or, as I did, place a hook on the backstay. I have owner manuel, many pages and no local duplication service. Is there anything specific I can send? Hatch and window leaks normal after 40 years, fixing never cheap. I had lots of blisters when I bought in '2005. I accepted the wisdom that nobody ever sunk because of blisters. This is a cosmetic issue limited to fish. Still dry bilge.
Forward hatch leaks are hard to understand, overlaps deck on all sides unless it is cracked. Prop shaft may require haul out at but I don't think rudder removal would be necessary if you first remove the prop. Happy to help, the more specific the issues the better.
Curious, what did you pay or your boat? Anything under 15k was a steal in MHO.

[roberttigar]

I have the manual, but it isnt going to give you the kind of info you need. You're better off with Nigel Caulders repair & maintenance manuals.

Leaks are a problem with any old boat-some new ones also. The toe rail is a particular issue. The seam is caulked but the stuff dries out. The job means, taking off the teak cap, removing old caulk, recaulking and replacing the teak. Big job but fixes a lot of potential leask areas. Then there's the mast and all those ports.
Yes, to pull the shaft you must remove the rudder. You casn pull the prop without removing the rudder.
Good Luck. Bob

[pcmm]

Originally Posted by SailMihaly

Hi all!
We're in the final stages of purchasing a 1976 33 Morgan OI & are researching costs for a few things the survey found that need to be fixed. Does anyone have a 33 Owners Manual they would be able to share?

The few concerns/negotiating pieces we're looking into:

1. Prop Shaft & Prop need to be replaced due to corrosion. Anyone done this? It looks like you need to take the rudder completely off to do this which will be a pain. Can anyone share the specs of the prop shaft & prop?

2. Bolts connecting the rudder to the hull on the stainless steel piece at the bottom need replaced.

3. Slight osmosis on the hull with intermittent blisters that are not fully formed. They're pretty small & the surveyor didn't seem to concerned with them. Has anyone redone their hull because of blistering?

4. One thru hull needs replaced due to corrosion.

5. Half of the Seacocks were redone with plastic pieces (yikes). Need to replace those with bronze or something much sturdier.

6. Topping lift is totally fixed. Need to fix that. Jib halyard needs redone as well.

7. Windows are leaking & he has 4 SS replacements, but there are 7 windows on the boat... Anyone have a good spot to find windows as we would want them to match.

8. Has been leaking in the forward hatch & v-berth cushions most likely need replaced due to potential for mildew.

9. Doesn't have a lot of electronics, but planning on doing a tablet with Navionics so we're not too concerned with this...

Any top tips/advice/thoughts or recommendations would be much appreciated! We're super excited about this boat - seems the overall bones are good, but (as always) there are a few issues!

Also - do any of the owners use FB more? Would be fun to create an active owners groups as it seems like it's a bit tricky to find!

Thanks!
Sydney & Dalton

If the "plastic" seacocks are forespar marelon and the handles are all there, just "excercise" them. Marelon are great and ABYC compliant and do not suffer from corrosion issues. Don't dismiss them.

replacing the prop shaft should be easy. check the leading edge of the rudder to see if there is a "divot" that lines up with the prop shaft ( my OI41 has this) you just have to turn the rudder to the right angle and the shaft will slide past it once you remove the prop. While you are replacing the prop, replace the cutless bearing at the same time. the prop specs should be stamped on the prop hub somewhere.

There is a very active Out Island 41 group on Facebook , you might be able to ask some questions there.

[MarkHooper]

I've just taken on a OI 33 project boat. It was basically abandoned for 10 years up here in Montreal. Surprisingly good shape once we blasted off a ton of moss from the outside. The cockpit had a foot deep composted earth from leaves. Yuck!

The biggest issue was that leaking from the portlights had let water build up until the front floor beams and even a bit of the main bulkhead were rotted. I'm in the middle of that now. Does anybody have experience with repairing the floor structure in a morgan OI? It's a strange approach they took. Appears that the whole floor was assembled as a big plywood "oval" with lateral 2x4s underneath. Then they dropped it into the hull and glassed/tabbed it around the edges. There is no support at all underneath with the floor hanging like a rope bridge. Obviously can't repair it the way they built it. And, of course, Murphy stepped in and the rotted area is under the main bulkhead... I'm thinking of using dense rubber blocks under new 4x4 lateral beams and then laying down new plywood. I'll glass the edges, but there will not be hanging tension. I'm trying to figure out if the shower pan is glued down or just stuck in place. This floor work is not as minor issue as I had hoped.

[Captng1]

I have a 1979 33' Morgan Out Island for 34 years now! Does anyone know where I may find the faux Burlap looking wall covering they used in these boats back then?
Thanks

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Captng1

I have a 1979 33' Morgan Out Island for 34 years now! Does anyone know where I may find the faux Burlap looking wall covering they used in these boats back then?
Thanks

Can't remember, is that the creamy white vinyl with the burlap brown printed on it?

[Captng1]

Hi Cheechako
The attached pic is what it looks like. It is a bit old and dirty, but you get the idea...
Thanks