DD 6V92 water in oil...

[spunner]

Hello and thanks for reading. I have a Sea Ray DA 500 with dual DD6V92's. Port side had a blower failure - I replaced it and she fired right up. Checked my oil and was milky... figured something happened to the aftercooler when the blower went. Pressure checked that and held pressure. Left it out of the mix, pressure tested everything else and more water in the oil. Thought maybe injector sleeves - no water visible leaking under pressure. Leaves water pump seal, so long as weep hole is plugged.. saturn also has to be in line with venus, etc... not that. Oil cooler... well, if that was the case and I ran it, I would think oil would be in the coolant since oil pressure is higher than water pressure when running. coolant is clean. leads me back to the fact it didn't do it before the blower failure. Going to pull the blower again and the aftercooler and peek down there. Seems the likely problem is a cracked head or block, or sleeve seals. Something happened when the blower went to crap. Plan to get a camera scope and try to peek through the drain plugs under pressure and try to see where it's coming from. Other info, this is a fresh rebuild, maybe 5 hours on it. turbo also rebuilt but haven't counted it our. Finally, don't understand the bearing failure in the blower. was on the governor side, and don't see how any oil is fed to it. the front of the blower has an oil tube that connects by the input shaft. Other side just baffles me. Anyone with some DD 6V92 knowledge would be appreciated. I live in NE and have to travel to FL where the boat is. So far, I just get to go work on it every other month. Thanks in advance. Heading back down soon and would LOVE to be able to at least identify the problem. Not knowing sucks and just throwing parts at it is expensive.

[Lepke]

Do a compression check. There's an adapter that fits the injector cups.

[skipperpete]

The blower failed or the turbocharger?
Are you seeing a coolant level drop? If the access is not too difficult I suggest taking off the airbox covers and checking the head,rings and cylinders from inside through the ports. Maybe you can pin the problem down to a specific cylinder. Be careful with pressurising the coolant system, if you do have a leak into a cylinder and the test puts water in there, it could get a hydraulic lock. Better to pressurise the cylinders with a proper leakage tester and see the results of that.

[spunner]

Originally Posted by skipperpete

The blower failed or the turbocharger?
Are you seeing a coolant level drop? If the access is not too difficult I suggest taking off the airbox covers and checking the head,rings and cylinders from inside through the ports. Maybe you can pin the problem down to a specific cylinder. Be careful with pressurising the coolant system, if you do have a leak into a cylinder and the test puts water in there, it could get a hydraulic lock. Better to pressurise the cylinders with a proper leakage tester and see the results of that.

Thanks for the reply. No coolant in the cylinders. Going straight into the oil. It was a blower failure, bearing went out and caused lobes to beat the hell out of each other. Was an amazing sound I never want to hear again. Plan is to remove the blower again and the aftercooler. Gonna look everything I can. Turning the engine and shoving the scope up every cylinder.

[skipperpete]

That’s an unusual event for a blower to fail so badly, scary event. Even more puzzling after a rebuild and I agree that there might be a problem with the blower oil supply. Probably debris from the blower failure got into the air boxes and hopefully went no further but that’s a long shot. The borescope inspection will be very useful. The only upside is that you are in the land of the Detroit Diesel and will have access to parts and tech’s.
I was aboard an 8V-71 powered vessel in Irian Jaya waters and had a leaking injector sleeve that caused the engine to break out the corner of the block after a hydro lock and had to get a mechanic from Jakarta to bring us a new short motor.

[rsgallo]

I had exactly the same thing happen in a bus. The blower bearings failed and the rotors rubbed. This created aluminum dust seizing the motor. Rod bearings spun, the mains melted down. Out of frame. I asked the machine shop to check the block before doing the restoration work (line boring with new main caps). I believe they took my money and didn't do it. For years now, I've had some coolant in the oil. Not enough to see, but testing shows it and it is going somewhere. Torn it down several times in the bus looking. Have found leaking injector cups, bad sleeve o rings, leaks at the aftercooler connection plugs (work done by others). Right now, out of frame. Found more of the above, along with out of spec work on the heads. All of this only 20000mi since last out of frame. Given the catastrophic failure, I always thought the block was flawed. On teardown, I found 2 cylinder holes with out of spec size. The liners wobble in the bore. I have another block and that's the direction I am going. I am doing all the work myself as I've decided the machine shops are not to be trusted. If you use them, check everything they do yourself.

[Wotname]

Welcome aboard CF, rsgallo. Interesting first post and you make a good point; it never hurts to check the work that others have done on your machinery.

Trust but verify.

[spunner]

Hello all... well I made it back from Florida. Upon further inspection, the consensus is a combination of two things. Incorrect parts and overheating. Cylinder sleeve o-ring failure . When I removed them, cylinder 2 came out in two pieces, assuming got pretty hot between cylinder 1 and 3. Other side was fine. However, the o-rings were black rubber and from everything I have seen they are supposed to be orange. They were sticky and appeared to have been installed with some kinda silicone. Also a no-no. To top it off, the other side didn't show the heat problem. Talking to a DD guy, you have to pull the temp sender when filling the block to bleed the system. The left side had a new sender installed, so guessing that bled that side, but no plug was touched on the right. Being I am this far along, gonna go ahead and check/surface the heads. Researching the correct rebuild kit for a 6v92-TA in frame. So far the only ting I can seem to find is FD - supposedly a division of Federal Mogul... this is all so confusing...

[Lepke]

You need to mic the hot cylinder and make sure that's it doesn't have raised areas from the overheating. It could need honing or even boring. Oversize sleeves are made for rebored cylinders. In damaged engines I mic the cylinders closely.

In undamaged engines, I record the part numbers on the sleeves. Usually the same but sometimes there's a cylinder with a different sleeve from machining issues when manufactured or later repair. Putting in the wrong sleeve in can lead to another problem.
Companies that sell Detroit sleeves are use to mix and match sleeves in their kits.

[spunner]

Good info! Thanks Lepke!

[spunner]

Just checked the part numbers on the sleeves. Appear to be Interstate McBee. Number appears to be correct for a 6V92TA. Part number is A23508986A manufacture date 06/17

Thanks.

[spunner]

Back from Florida again. Got the rebuild done pressure tested and no water in oil! New injectors, ran the rail all ready to go. Fires up first try, then dies. Wait a minute fires again and dies. Making headway. Pull air cleaner and turbo is seized. NBD, that's an easy fix next trip. Doing research to see if a seized turbo can restrict air flow to the blower enough to starve it. Most say it will not, just will not get over 1300 rpm. So is there something other than the turbo... I have no idea.

[Lepke]

At idle the turbo doesn't contribute. The blower can draw air thru it. Sounds like a fuel or governor/rack problem. If the engine has fuel, it has to start and run if rack, etc., is adjusted properly. As long as there's fuel flow and the injectors aren't closed, the engine has no choice but to run.

[skipperpete]

So now I guess you have a new blower and I assume shaft and bearings but the turbo has seized.
I hate to ask the very obvious but.......... is the emergency shutdown flap open and latched?
Are your DD’s contra rotating? I only ask because left and right hand engine parts aren’t always interchangeable and I’m thinking the fuel pump is one of em.
Air in the fuel system or lack of fuel is still the most likely cause of this starting problem so keep filling up those filters and free up the stuck turbo. ( you might want to check the turbos on the other engine too)

[spunner]

Thanks for the replies. I was afraid that the turbo seized wasn't the issue. Next trip I will run the rack again. The engines are not counter rotating. The emergency shutdown plate is open - that would certainly cause a lack of air :-) Cannot imagine there being a problem with the new blower (fingers crossed) Next trip I will get the turbo ripped out and take care of that issue. I installed a new primer pump and ran it for a few minutes. I will run it some more, re-run the rails (my first time doing that per instructions in the manual) and will double check the injectors - I used the .484 tool since there was a note on the table saying to use that for turbo models. I was a little confused by the table though. 7125 injectors came out, so that is what I purchased to replace, but there was no 7125 in the table. They all started with 9. Couldn't find a cross reference for any 7125 to 9xxxx anywhere. Suppose I could take a look at the other engine and see what's in it. Could it be they were the wrong injectors to start with? I replaced them because the shaft was stuck on a couple after sitting in a ziplock for several months and I didn't want to chance them. I got the shaft on them moving freely, but wasn't sure if there was an o-ring or something I screwed up inside shooting it with penetrating oil and forcing the shaft to move.