12V DC Receptacles (Outlets)
I’ve never been happy with the normally available 12VDC outlets (receptacles) - not the W.P. Bi-Pin Deck Connections (Perko1189 Series, Cole-HerseyM121-BP, SeaFit, & etc), and especially not the Lighter Socket type (commonly fitted to accessories).
For 12 Volt DC accessories, I use “Midget Twist-Lock Devices” (2 Pole, 2 Wire, Polarized, NEMA Code ML-1), such as the:
Hubbell #HBL7526C Flanged Receptacle (or Cooper #7468 etc.)
Standard Weather-Proof Coverplates are readily available available.
mated with the
Hubbell #HBL7545C Plug (male cord cap) (or Cooper #7467 etc.)
The series even has a female cord cap (to make an extension cord) #HBL7506C (or Cooper #7464N etc.)
Although these devices are intended for AC use (UL rated for 15A 125VAC - polarized), they are an excellent alternative to the conventional DC outlets.
They are rugged, corrosion resistant, easily installed, attractive, and best of all “Twist-Lock”.
Not normally available at Marine stores, these NEMA type "ML-1" Midget devices are available at any good Electrical (or Industrial) Distribution Supply house.
I have'nt used the "Trolling Motor" connectors (Marinco #20188R), which though 4-pole, are "Twistlok".
Anyone used these?
I use ligher sockets for my 7 Cafrano 12 V fans througout the cabin.
They are simple and seem to last.
For other 12 V stuff, especially outside I use 2 prone, screw-on connectors....Autopilot, search light, etc.
The ML 1 midget devices you mention is probably real good stuff, but where to find them for a layman...?
(I don't know any elctric supply or distributinon houses. Do you have any links..?)
Now doing a small electrical project on "Rhapsody", CSY 33:
Installing a scavenge pump in the bilge....The purpose is to suck up that last 2 gallons of water the bilge pumps can not get to..
(Deep bilge, long hoses, water comes back down after bilge pumps shut off.)
Tired of laying on my belly under the table with a hand pump and a bucket. 5 years is long enough.
Anybody else with an electric scavenge pump for the bilge..?
PS. Gord...Thanks for the b-day greeting, tried to write ya back but yer mail-box was full...
What about a simple sump pump type ball valve to shut off the back flow ?
Nah, won't work: The pumps are 4 feet below the floor boards.
Even a gorilla with long arms would have a problem reaching down there to shut the valve at just the right second when the bilge pump stop running and a gallon is coming back down.
One pump have a vented loop at the highest point in the cockpit coaming and the other one have a check valve under the cockpit sole.
Therefore both electric bilge pumps have some back flow after the pump cycle is complete.....The CSY man has been on his belly with a hand pump too many times....No more Mr. nice guy, now the little mini-flow max or whatever the 1.1 GPM pump is called, is going to take over the duty while yours truly push a button and pop a beer, all with a smile on the face...
(If this thing works as advertised of course.. The brochure said it would self prime up to 4'...I mounted it 2.5 over the bottom of the sump...We shall see tomorrow when the installation is complete.)
Sorry for hi-jacking yer thread here Mr. Gord, will make it up with a rum punch over in the Bahamas....:D
I'm with you Gord
I also use the hubbell type twist-loc's for the 12V system and the 3 pole for the 120V. I know what you mean about the marine supplies not having the right stuff. It's just the prices that get me. How can they charge so much for such a little production product. You can buy plastic model cars and planes with much more detail for a lot less. As a Toolmaker, I can make these dies myself and I know that once their made they can last for years for plastic. One multi-peice die could mfg'r thousands of parts. I went to buy a 50 amp three pole 120V plug and they wanted $100 US without the boot. That's robbery. A good cell phone dosen't cost that.
Anyway here's a site for Hubbell.
Then there is Brad/Harrison
As for the sump pump, one with a inlet hose with a foot valve, as Troubleduer mentioned, to get right down in the soup. If you have a long exit hose you'll need a foot valve on the inlet hose (not on sump pumps). When the water is pumping out and runs out of water and the pump shuts off, that last bit of water maybe running right back into the bilges. If your sump pump is right in the soup then you could use a check valve on the exit hose to stop the back flow.
One thing though! I'd pour a little fresh water in the bilge after a pump out and pump again so the pump wouldn't be sittng with straight saltwater in it.
You'll probably want to use a hand pump if you can't get the pump all the way down in the soup. The electric ones are not cheep.
Just my $.02
Yes, uh they are not that expensive, I paid $47.00 for the pump, then another $63.00 for wires, connectors, hoses, SS hose clamps, adapeters, tees, heat shrink, fuses, fuse holder, running light, push-button switch and other small pieces.
Total is about $110.00 right now.
No more salt water in my bilge, after I installed "Virtually Drip-Less Packing" around the shaft, and tightened up some sea-cocks, there is not a drop of salt in there....(Meh think)
The water in the bilge is from the fresh water tank:
After every cruise I drain the fresh water in the bilge, then use the 2 electric and the one manual pump to get it out..Great excercise for the pumps as I have noticed over the years: If ya don't use a piece of marine gear for a while, it quits working on its own.
As bilge water, fresh or salt, starts to smell after a few weeks in the tropics, I have been pumping out the last 1.5 to 2 gallons by hand, then wiping the bilge with a sponge on a stick...I have also been know to point a fan down there to dry everything up.
(Being a self proclaimed perfectionist is really a pain in the butt, both for myself and for folks around me, but sometimes it pays off:
The other day I had the surveyor over to inspect the boat for an insurance survey...He found no "recommedations" and in fact wrote that the boat was in "Bristol Condition" which can be found only on 1% of vessels in service...His words..Not mine.
Not bad for a 25 year old sailboat...But it has cost me a bit of elbow grease and $40,000.00 in repairs, maintenance and upgrades over the last 5 years....In addition to the $40,000.00 I paid for the ship)
But she is ready to go anywhere and I am running out of projects, only one or two left....:D
Yeah Right....it is endless....
Electrical distributers can be found by "Locate Distributers" on the Hubbell website. (see Delmarey's earlier link
(to CSYman) Ft. Lauderdale;
Search Results For: 33301
GRAINGER (Branch 481)
6781 NW 17TH AVE
FORT LAUDERDALE, FL 33309
3230 W COMMERCIAL BLVD
FORT LAUDERDALE, FL 33309-3400
1786 NORTH COMMERCE PKWY
WESTON, FL 33326
and I used
IMPERIAL ELECTRIC & LIGHTING
1125 S.W. 101 Road
DANIA, Fl, 33324
Thanks for the links and the search results Gents.
Now I know where to go for 12 v outlets...
There is a cure for profectionist, it's called too many projects. Been there, done that. I gave it up when I found out that life was dwindaling away. For what? I picked up the name "ricochet" because I was bouncing of the walls trying to keep everything in order. I found that it seemed I was the only one who cared. So now, I do what I can and the rest goes to H... :devil:
But health, safety and security still has priority!
Congrats on the Bristol vessel! Wish mine could be there, maybe some day.
Yup, had too many projects myself, but finally got down the list and got 99% of them done...Good feeling it is.
No, I would not bounce of the walls or go crazy..Rahter sit for anchor in the Bahamas reading a good book and have satisfaction that everything works.
Must say I have an unfair advantage living on a deep water canal in Ft. Lauderdale so the boat is parked right here at my own dock.
Makes it easy to get big and small projects done...
Guess I am lucky that I bought the place 5 years ago, just when prices started going up and up.
Now I could not afford my own home, way out of my price range.
(Guess it made up for what I lost on the stock-market..:D )
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