We have just used a "new to us" product called Puriclean, to clean our poly tanks and it worked so well that I thought I would post a thread to let the rest of you know about it. Then I thought of the other products we have used, that have become "Favorites" ... and some we will never use again ... and thought of all the other people on this forum that might want to share similar info .. so here we go!
PURICLEAN & AQUA TABS Our main water tank had water setting in it for 3+ years and no amount of flushing, low dose bleaching etc. seemed to clean it satisfactorily. Then we managed to get blue/green algea in our holding tank, which, when it died, left an odor that typical holding tank chemicals couldn't make go away. We have cleaned both tanks with Puriclean (a product of the UK that is available in the USA) and it has worked just as promised ... gets a big "thumbs up" from us.
PB BLASTER if you have ever used "Liquid Wrench" try this stuff & you will never go back ... a vastly superior product.
PTFE dry film lubricant with Teflon. Great stuff for sail tracks, sheaves and a million other things ... leaves nothing sticky behind. We use "Team McLube".
TEF GELL Whenever you have to install stainless fittings into aluminum, this stuff lets you do it without galvanic corrosion, expensive to buy .. but priceless in the long run.
WHICHINOX sure it's a great stainless steel cleaner, but it also repassivates SS ... Hey Gordy? would you explain that for me? Trust me ... this is great stuff!
DIELECTRIC SILICONE PASTE a million uses and can make electrical connectors all but immune to moisture. Also great to keep rubber gaskets & O-rings alive much longer. We use 3M 101 (did you know that 3 M stands for "Much More Money"?) although "Super Lube" is a good product too.
ANHYDROUS LANOLIN YOU can buy Lanacote if you want .. I get this stuff from a pharmacy at a fraction of the price ... suppose I should say thanks to all the Aussies & Kiwis out there for the sheep sqeezin's. :)
AK-99 RUST REMOVER you might have some trouble finding this ... but it really works great . I had stupidly left some rust stains on the gel coat ... gave this stuff to Lynn to try, and it just made them disappear.
On the negative side
BRISTOL FINISH Supposedly a long lasting "wood finish" didn't work for me, when I contacted the manufacture, they stone walled me ... will never use again.
I expect that there are hundreds of other "Favorites" out there ... and many bad expeiences as well .... please share.
Bob & Lynn
L S/V Sew Good
Splash Zone. This stuff will patch and seal anything, even underwater, is very forgiving if the surface is not clean, and even seems to work on fuel tanks.
WD-40. I have ranted about on this board enough, so...
Fluid Film. This is a liquid Wrench type product that works, especially on aluminum. Mast fittings do not have to be drilled off.
In cold climates, Power Service diesel additive. Fuel will not gel. I have some stories about this stuff from my trucking days, but suffice it to say it works. Might even benefit in warm climes, but I have only used it in sub zero situations.
On the negative side, Oxy Clean seems worthless. Tried it on a couple of different applications with no results.
And one more positive, For paint stripping on metal (do not use on fiberglass) Aircraft Stripper. I have used this on every type of paint aside from antifouling, and it works great.
Wichard WICHINOX contains Phosphoric Acid (H304P), which is an oxidizing agent. Passivation is a process in which oxidizing acids are used to build up the protective oxide layer on Stainless Steel. The oxide film forms naturally on clean S/S surfaces exposed to the oxygen in the atmosphere, but contact with acid (usually heated to about 130oF / 50oC) mixtures containing oxidizing agents can enhance its formation. An acid wash also serves the important function of dissolving any free-iron contamination on the surface of the stainless steel. Nitric Acid is the commonest oxidizer used in passivation, but Phosphoric Acid is also used. Naval Jelly, "Ospho'", and many other metal treatments contain Phosphoric Acid.
We have found and started using CorrsionX. It is designed to displace water from electrical contacts and seal them. It also has a cleaner (not sure what it is) in the will dissolve away corrision. Works great!
Another vote for Puriclean and Aquatabs.
Captain Toley's Creeping Crack Cure - a little bottle of magic stuff for bunging up little water leaks
ZX1 - designed for te racing cars as an anti-friction agent, but makes a big difference in any engine (and some gearboxes but not those that use a friction pad drive) This comes in two forms, a viscous liquid to add to your oil and it will coat bearing surfaces with a sibstance that will even allow the engine to run without oil for a while it also smooths the engine making it quieter and more efficient. It also comes as a light oil which is great for freeing off blocks and areas whee friction is a nuisance, it also provides a corrosion inhibite.
No toolbox is complete without duct tape and araldite.
Pettit “FLEXYPOXY” (#7706)
A flexible 2-part epoxy, excellent for keel-to-hull joint fairing/sealing, chain-plate bonding/sealing, and any other Bonding or Sealing application where elasticity is desirable.
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