Cruisers & Sailing Forums (https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/)
-   Engines and Propulsion Systems (https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f54/)
-   -   Oil leak from valve cover (https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f54/oil-leak-from-valve-cover-224065.html)

skipmac 19-09-2019 11:27

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Cadence (Post 2980192)
Just maybe a stupid suggestion. Be sure the four bolts a tightened about the same.


Actually I was going to try intentionally tightening them differently. Leak is at one end so will try tightening that end slightly more to seal the gasket where it's leaking but tighten the other nuts slightly less to insure no warping of the cover. Since they are higher due to the tilt of the engine installation not likely the leak is there.

Cadence 19-09-2019 11:35

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by skipmac (Post 2980194)
Actually I was going to try intentionally tightening them differently. Leak is at one end so will try tightening that end slightly more to seal the gasket where it's leaking but tighten the other nuts slightly less to insure no warping of the cover. Since they are higher due to the tilt of the engine installation not likely the leak is there.

They don't need to be wrenched down tight, snug is enough.

rbk 19-09-2019 11:45

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Cadence (Post 2980198)
They don't need to be wrenched down tight, snug is enough.

Bolts hold cover down via soft rubber inserts. They need to be compressed quit a bit in order to tighten the cover down sufficiently.

Cheechako 19-09-2019 12:00

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
That red silicone gasket sealer is good. The only thing I can figure is: is there back pressure inside the cover? Are the pathways that drain the oil back to the sump blocked somehow?
Center tightening covers can be bad for that. But short of making "bridges" that press on the outer flange from the center studs, not sure. But a new gasket with that red goop, or any good goop should work fine if you dont have other issues. If you goop both sides of it and it still leaks you have pressure inside there. It won't leak without that if the surfaces are flat. Blowby, Bad rings?

Cadence 19-09-2019 12:01

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by rbk (Post 2980203)
Bolts hold cover down via soft rubber inserts. They need to be compressed quit a bit in order to tighten the cover down sufficiently.

As I said, it could be a dumb post and maybe not relevant. People tend to believe tighter is better which is not necessarily true. JMHO

bongo 19-09-2019 22:08

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by skipmac (Post 2980156)
Thanks bongo. I had earlier checked the gasket and thought it was nitrile or some kind of rubber but this morning in bright light I see it looks like a rubber impregnated cork or some similar material. The cork (or whatever) is in very fine particles with no visible texture and the overall gasket is flexible like rubber but firm so would not extrude under pressure.


Head surface is very clean and in good condition but have not wiped it with any kind of solvent or degreaser to remove the fine oil film.


So based on this info what's your suggestion?

Hi Skipmac,
When I talk about fiber impregnated gaskets, I mean longitudinal and horizontal fibers. Much like woven fiberglass roving. With this the elastic material, (e.g. rubber), will not squish out. This type of gasket can be used with a goopy sealant. But yours sounds like a matrix of rubber and cork. (I believe mine is the same). If you use a sealent of any kind, it will extrude; unless, the goop is completely set "before" clamping the valve cover to the cylinder head. Like I said, I waited overnight for it to cure, and in the morning the gasket was firmly in place. . Mine leaked before, but not after. Since only one side, (the valve cover side), is glued on, the valve cover can be easily removed for inspections.
Good Luck

waterman46 19-09-2019 23:21

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by skipmac (Post 2979505)
HI RBK,


Thanks for reminding me to mention this. The engine is a Westerbeke W58 which is just a Perkins 4-154 painted red.


The valve cover attaches to four studs coming up from the centerline of the head, not with bolts around the edge.

I have the 4-154 also, but Perkins from 1982. Same problem. Don't use Permatex, it makes a mess, and you need to remove cover to adjust valve pushrod clearances. A new gasket should help, if not see if you can tell if the cover mating surface is flat.

Rod B 20-09-2019 03:45

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
Am I right in saying that the old Brit engines that used this type of pressed steel valve cover/gasket arrangement also used 'nylok' type nuts? This allowed you to assemble them with a relatively light pressure on the gaskets and flange without having the the nuts come loose.

skipmac 20-09-2019 04:30

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by bongo (Post 2980470)
Hi Skipmac,
When I talk about fiber impregnated gaskets, I mean longitudinal and horizontal fibers. Much like woven fiberglass roving. With this the elastic material, (e.g. rubber), will not squish out. This type of gasket can be used with a goopy sealant. But yours sounds like a matrix of rubber and cork. (I believe mine is the same). If you use a sealent of any kind, it will extrude; unless, the goop is completely set "before" clamping the valve cover to the cylinder head. Like I said, I waited overnight for it to cure, and in the morning the gasket was firmly in place. . Mine leaked before, but not after. Since only one side, (the valve cover side), is glued on, the valve cover can be easily removed for inspections.
Good Luck


Two things, the cover has six, small flanges on the inside that extend just past the bottom lip that help hold the gasket in place and prevent extrusion. And a quick visual around the edge didn't reveal any obvious external extrusion or gaps where the gasket might have been squeezed inward.



I'll get my little inspection mirror and a probe to check more closely on the next trial (see next post) to confirm the gasket is in place.

skipmac 20-09-2019 04:56

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
Update.


Went to the boat yesterday with a perfectly clean valve cover and gasket and tubes of Permatex.


First test, a thin layer of Permatex on the mating surface of the cover, mainly to hold the gasket in place during the installation. I think this is going to be necessary no matter what technique I use on this.


First step I finger tightened the nuts to get the cover and gasket in place. Then based on my assumption that the leak was on the low end of the block firmly tightened all the nuts with a little more pressure on the nuts on the low end. No torque wrench on board but using a nut driver with what I would call moderate force, guessing 2-3 ft lbs????

skipmac 20-09-2019 04:59

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Rod B (Post 2980509)
Am I right in saying that the old Brit engines that used this type of pressed steel valve cover/gasket arrangement also used 'nylok' type nuts? This allowed you to assemble them with a relatively light pressure on the gaskets and flange without having the the nuts come loose.


Holding the cover on top is a two part deal. There are rubber seals that insert in the holes to seal around the studs then a nut with a wide bottom like a built in washer that is larger than the gasket and holds it tight around the stud while also holding the cover down.

skipmac 20-09-2019 05:00

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by waterman46 (Post 2980477)
I have the 4-154 also, but Perkins from 1982. Same problem. Don't use Permatex, it makes a mess, and you need to remove cover to adjust valve pushrod clearances. A new gasket should help, if not see if you can tell if the cover mating surface is flat.


This is a new gasket and the mating surfaces, cover and head, look flat with a straight edge. Not flat to machine shop standards but see no visible gaps as well as I can tell.

skipmac 20-09-2019 05:10

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Cheechako (Post 2980211)
That red silicone gasket sealer is good. The only thing I can figure is: is there back pressure inside the cover? Are the pathways that drain the oil back to the sump blocked somehow?
Center tightening covers can be bad for that. But short of making "bridges" that press on the outer flange from the center studs, not sure. But a new gasket with that red goop, or any good goop should work fine if you dont have other issues. If you goop both sides of it and it still leaks you have pressure inside there. It won't leak without that if the surfaces are flat. Blowby, Bad rings?


The cover is vented with a hose to the intake manifold so should have a slight vacuum in the cover. I did check that and it was open and completely clear from cover to the manifold.



Haven't checked the drain holes around the rockers but when I pulled the cover off within a couple of minutes of shutting down the engine there was not any noticeable accumulation of oil in the head so thinking this isn't the problem.


Don't think the rings are bad. Engine starts immediately, no visible smoke and other than leaks, uses very little oil.

Cheechako 20-09-2019 07:25

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by skipmac (Post 2980156)
Thanks bongo. I had earlier checked the gasket and thought it was nitrile or some kind of rubber but this morning in bright light I see it looks like a rubber impregnated cork or some similar material. The cork (or whatever) is in very fine particles with no visible texture and the overall gasket is flexible like rubber but firm so would not extrude under pressure.


Head surface is very clean and in good condition but have not wiped it with any kind of solvent or degreaser to remove the fine oil film.


So based on this info what's your suggestion?

Well, the rubber impregnated cork is good. Plain rubber slips and extrudes from pressure. Here's what I would do:
-Have the mating surfaces clean and dry. Wipe with acetone.
-Use Permatex Aviation Form a Gasket on both sides of the gasket.
-Once in place tighten down just a little on the 4 bolts.
-Let it sit overnight.
-Retighten just snug and evenly.

Warning: that Permatex will be a mess to ever get apart. But I'm the guy that uses 5200 on everything, even installing portlites. Never had one leak. "Do it once, never do it again"
PS: Open the oil filler with engine running. There should be no pressure out the hole...? If you have pressure you have problems.

skipmac 20-09-2019 07:45

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Cheechako (Post 2980584)
Well, the rubber impregnated cork is good. Plain rubber slips and extrudes from pressure. Here's what I would do:
-Have the mating surfaces clean and dry. Wipe with acetone.
-Use Permatex Aviation Form a Gasket on both sides of the gasket.
-Once in place tighten down just a little on the 4 bolts.
-Let it sit overnight.
-Retighten just snug and evenly.

Warning: that Permatex will be a mess to ever get apart. But I'm the guy that uses 5200 on everything, even installing portlites. Never had one leak. "Do it once, never do it again"
PS: Open the oil filler with engine running. There should be no pressure out the hole...? If you have pressure you have problems.


So far nothing else is working and I'm very nervous about tightening too much and possibly warping the cover so I think next step is to Permatex the hell out of everything (with of course cleaning with solvent first).


No pressure under the cover. It's well vented to the intake and the hose is clear. The only thing I see if I remove the oil fill cap when the engine is running is a bit of oil splash and spray.

Cheechako 20-09-2019 07:48

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by skipmac (Post 2980595)
So far nothing else is working and I'm very nervous about tightening too much and possibly warping the cover so I think next step is to Permatex the hell out of everything (with of course cleaning with solvent first).


No pressure under the cover. It's well vented to the intake and the hose is clear. The only thing I see if I remove the oil fill cap when the engine is running is a bit of oil splash and spray.

:thumb: Be sure to not use solvent that is NOT oily like Naptha etc. Something that leaves a dry surface like Acetone, MEK, or Lacquer thinner is good. I hope it works for you. :facepalm:

skipmac 20-09-2019 10:24

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Cheechako (Post 2980598)
:thumb: Be sure to not use solvent that is NOT oily like Naptha etc. Something that leaves a dry surface like Acetone, MEK, or Lacquer thinner is good. I hope it works for you. :facepalm:


Thanks, I like acetone in general for this kind of thing. Seems to be a little less toxic than some of the other stuff.



By the way, thanks for warning me that you're a 5200 kind of guy. Will take that into account when reading any of your advise on the forum. :biggrin:

waterman46 20-09-2019 12:55

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by skipmac (Post 2979904)

In fact the whole engine looks like carp but it runs like a top, has perfect oil pressure, starts instantly and doesn't smoke at all so I hate to replace it. Then I run into a persnickety little problem like this and consider turning it into a mooring.

Welcome to the wonderful world of old Perkins engines. Your description fits our engine perfectly.
As does the oil leak. Our oil leak seems to come from several places around the seal, not just the rear. It does collect at the rear however. I have taken to stuffing a small rag into the gap between the oil filter holder and the valve cover.

skipmac 20-09-2019 13:45

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by waterman46 (Post 2980799)
Welcome to the wonderful world of old Perkins engines. Your description fits our engine perfectly.
As does the oil leak. Our oil leak seems to come from several places around the seal, not just the rear. It does collect at the rear however. I have taken to stuffing a small rag into the gap between the oil filter holder and the valve cover.


Ah yes, the old rag behind the valve cover trick. Know it well.


Problem is, my leak got so big the rag wasn't working. If I could get the leak down to rag level quantities I would be a happy camper.

Cadence 20-09-2019 14:14

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
I thought old undestroyable GMs had the title for oil leaks. :-)

a64pilot 20-09-2019 14:26

Oil leak from valve cover
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by skipmac (Post 2980825)
Ah yes, the old rag behind the valve cover trick. Know it well.


Problem is, my leak got so big the rag wasn't working. If I could get the leak down to rag level quantities I would be a happy camper.



A turkey basting pan under the motor works well too.

There is a liquid gasket out that I have used that is very good now, Iíll look for it, but many modern engines apparently donít have gaskets anymore, they just use this liquid stuff, saves $$$ Iím sure as the manufacturer doesnít have to buy and stock gaskets anymore.
My Sonís Suzuki Samurai oil pan was like that, there are after market gaskets apparently, but if you use them, you have to replace all the bolts as with a gasket the stock bolts arenít long enough.

Pretty sure itís made by Permatex and called ďThe right stuffĒ.
I was surprised at how well it worked and I think that is what was used on my GM Duramax Diesel when I had its covers off to replace the injectors, and that motor is like a Yanmar, it doesnít even seep oil, ever.

Anyway this Permatex stuff comes out of a can like cheese wiz.
Follow directions and it worked a treat.

Iíd leave the gasket out and try it.
https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...asket-maker-3/

Click on the instruction tab.

I need to get some to carry and not worry about gaskets, donít use for a carburetor gasket though

skipmac 20-09-2019 14:50

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by a64pilot (Post 2980849)
A turkey basting pan under the motor works well too.

There is a liquid gasket out that I have used that is very good now, Iíll look for it, but many modern engines apparently donít have gaskets anymore, they just use this liquid stuff, saves $$$ Iím sure as the manufacturer doesnít have to buy and stock gaskets anymore.
My Sonís Suzuki Samurai oil pan was like that, there are after market gaskets apparently, but if you use them, you have to replace all the bolts as with a gasket the stock bolts arenít long enough.

Pretty sure itís made by Permatex and called ďThe right stuffĒ.
I was surprised at how well it worked and I think that is what was used on my GM Duramax Diesel when I had its covers off to replace the injectors, and that motor is like a Yanmar, it doesnít even seep oil, ever.

Anyway this Permatex stuff comes out of a can like cheese wiz.
Follow directions and it worked a treat.

Iíd leave the gasket out and try it.
https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...asket-maker-3/

Click on the instruction tab.

I need to get some to carry and not worry about gaskets, donít use for a carburetor gasket though


Well I'm already set up to give it one last go with what I have on hand. I cleaned the cover again but this time needed the wire wheel (small version to fit in my drill) to get the Permatex Red off. Then wiped it down, applied a generous bead and am letting the gasket set overnight. Tomorrow I'll wipe the mating surface on the head, apply a slightly less generous bead on the bottom of the gasket and screw it down again. If that doesnt' work then I'll main order some of the right stuff. I don't think anyone on the island stocks it.


So here's hopefully, one last question. There seems to be, literally, a dozen or more different flavors of Permatex. Reading their website I think they are recommending Permashield Dressing to seal between a gasket and mating surface but all I can find locally are various types of gasket making Permatex. I think the Red, hi temp gasket maker may be better at filling a gap than the dressing so am leaning towards that anyway.


Suggestions?

model 10 20-09-2019 15:05

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
5200:smile: Actually I'm not really kidding. Fill the cover with sealant and wax the mating surface. It will not leak and it will come right off again. This is how you can seal the cover plates on the bottom of aircraft fuel tanks.

keith001 20-09-2019 15:08

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
I didnít read all the advice so far but in case no one mentioned it, check that the oil return guides are clear. You need an air compressor and a rubber tip on the air hose. Itís been my problem before.

skipmac 20-09-2019 16:22

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by a64pilot (Post 2980849)
Anyway this Permatex stuff comes out of a can like cheese wiz.
Follow directions and it worked a treat.

Iíd leave the gasket out and try it.
https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...asket-maker-3/

Click on the instruction tab.

I need to get some to carry and not worry about gaskets, donít use for a carburetor gasket though


This stuff sounds really good. Going to order a couple of cans to keep on the boat and if the latest try doesn't work I'll have some on the way.

skipmac 20-09-2019 16:25

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Ecos (Post 2980873)
5200:smile: Actually I'm not really kidding. Fill the cover with sealant and wax the mating surface. It will not leak and it will come right off again. This is how you can seal the cover plates on the bottom of aircraft fuel tanks.


A thicker, stronger make it yourself gasket. How's it work for hi temp applications? I've used it for other applications where it wasn't supposed to work, like gluing a PVC rub rail back onto a Hypalon dinghy. Several years later still stuck tight but then it doesn't get a couple hundred degrees hot.

skipmac 20-09-2019 16:27

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by keith001 (Post 2980876)
I didnít read all the advice so far but in case no one mentioned it, check that the oil return guides are clear. You need an air compressor and a rubber tip on the air hose. Itís been my problem before.


Someone did and while I didn't check the drains specifically when I removed the cover a minute or so after running the engine for 15-20 minutes there was zero residual oil hanging out around the rockers.

sailorboy1 20-09-2019 16:34

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
If I takes a bunch of “sealant” there’s a problem.

model 10 20-09-2019 16:59

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
This isn't a Space shuttle O ring. You need as much sealant, as it takes to fill the lows. If you need a flat surface to check the valve cover, the galley counter or a grave stone are good. You assume the head will be flat.

skipmac 20-09-2019 17:39

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by sailorboy1 (Post 2980919)
If I takes a bunch of ďsealantĒ thereís a problem.


Of course there's a problem. Oil is pouring out from under my valve cover and making a big mess.



:biggrin:

Compass790 20-09-2019 18:12

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by skipmac (Post 2980868)
Well I'm already set up to give it one last go with \

So here's hopefully, one last question. There seems to be, literally, a dozen or more different flavors of Permatex. Reading their website I think they are recommending Permashield Dressing to seal between a gasket and mating surface but all I can find locally are various types of gasket making Permatex. I think the Red, hi temp gasket maker may be better at filling a gap than the dressing so am leaning towards that anyway.


Suggestions?

Yes think you'll be fine with the red permatex. I've never used it I just use the cheapest RTV silicone frm builders supply places as they do the same job in our raw water cooled engine that would be lucky to reach 60oC on a hot day. Loctite 518 flange sealant is good too but quite expensive & you probly don't have it there
All the crankcase & gearbox joints are sealed with silicone in our engine & no gaskets but I just smear it on one face & let it go off before I bolted them up. Zero leaks but it's not British made so they aren't compulsory.
Allow its curing time before you start up if you are going to do the gasket face to head face with a wet joint. I'd tighten it maybe 1/2 tight when wet then do the final tighten after it's cured but whatever takes your fancy
Probly wont make much difference

a64pilot 21-09-2019 06:43

Oil leak from valve cover
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by skipmac (Post 2980960)
Of course there's a problem. Oil is pouring out from under my valve cover and making a big mess.



:biggrin:



I think his point is that it wasnít pouring oil for decades without a bunch of sealant, now a bunch is required.
Why? What has changed? Whatís different?
Maybe as someone posted itís the oil drain back passages are clogged, and the oil used to drain back, but now fills up the area under the valve cover, and since there is now oil where oil didnít used to be, it leaks?
I can see that happening, itís logical and an easy thing to eliminate.

skipmac 21-09-2019 08:28

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by a64pilot (Post 2981230)
I think his point is that it wasnít pouring oil for decades without a bunch of sealant, now a bunch is required.
Why? What has changed? Whatís different?
Maybe as someone posted itís the oil drain back passages are clogged, and the oil used to drain back, but now fills up the area under the valve cover, and since there is now oil where oil didnít used to be, it leaks?
I can see that happening, itís logical and an easy thing to eliminate.


Yea, I know but I have to give Sailorboy a little dig occasionally to keep him in line. :wink:


Seriously I do wonder what the heck is going on. It did leak a bit from the day I bought the boat but it seemed to be at a manageable level. It was about the same, still dripping and using oil absorbent towels last spring when I was getting ready to head north. So, as mentioned, while I was tied up with provisioning and other prep I paid a mechanic.



To be fair he does a good bit of engine work but mostly just minor parts swapping but I assumed putting on a new gasket would be well within his capabilities. Instead it got a lot worse and my first attempt at repair was no better. So either replacing a valve cover gasket is trickier than my admittedly amateur mechanics skills can handle or there is some underlying problem.

waterman46 21-09-2019 09:11

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by skipmac (Post 2980114)
Will definitely try careful tightening of the cover before going crazy with other stuff.

But a question. To avoid running the engine and looking for oil to pour out into my bilge (again and I'm starting to run low on oil absorbent towels) I'm wondering if sticking a feeler gauge into the joint would be test enough to determine if the leak is fixed or at least decreased.

How can you use a feeler gauge in this case? The Perkins 4154 valve cover has a lip around the perimeter. That lip is maybe 2 or 3 mm high above (well, below, once cover is installed over valves) the sealing surface. Wouldn't that prevent insertion of a feeler gauge?

If you could insert a feeler gauge, that would indeed be a huge leak.
Did you try checking for a crack in the cover? Maybe plug the holes and fill with water. Or have you determined the exact location of the leak by careful monitoring while engine is running?

AKA-None 21-09-2019 09:21

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
So weíre guessing there was no distortion of the cover which is a common issue from over tightening. Look around the bolt holes.

skipmac 21-09-2019 09:31

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by waterman46 (Post 2981320)
How can you use a feeler gauge in this case? The Perkins 4154 valve cover has a lip around the perimeter. That lip is maybe 2 or 3 mm high above (well, below, once cover is installed over valves) the sealing surface. Wouldn't that prevent insertion of a feeler gauge?

If you could insert a feeler gauge, that would indeed be a huge leak.
Did you try checking for a crack in the cover? Maybe plug the holes and fill with water. Or have you determined the exact location of the leak by careful monitoring while engine is running?


The cover does have a small lip but the gasket stands proud of the cover so I could insert a feeler between the top of the head and the gasket. I have feeler gauges down to thousandths which wouldn't be that huge.


I thought the leak was at the low end of the cover (the engine, like most is installed at an angle with the back of the engine lower than the front). Last trial I pulled the cover off and saw a trail of oil on the bottom of the gasket (between gasket and head) leading from the front of the block, down one side of the gasket to the back. The other side was perfectly clean and dry.

Dymaxion 21-09-2019 09:44

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
Permatex sell a tube of silicone specifically for oil resistance. For doing car oilpans, transmissions etc. Black goop, tube has black label, about $7. The red goop will let go in oil eventually. While at the autoparts place buying that, pick up a spray can of brake cleaner, $3, which will degrease the valve cover rim and edge of cylinder head nicely, and evaporate off cleanly.

Before you put any gasket in place set the cover onto the 4 studs and then pressing around the edge where it seals see if you get any rocking as you go around, to check for flatness. If wobbly fix by tapping lightly with a hammer with the sealing flange backed up on a bit of wood. Normally a valve cover gasket doesn't need a sealant, but a smear on each side of it then installation is fine. A rubber grommet for each stud, then a large diameter washer (fender washer) and you can apply a decently level of torque and compress the seal and goop down.

I'm always suspicious of a second torqueing down after the goop has set. Why risk breaking open a good seal obtained when the goop was tacky?

skipperpete 21-09-2019 16:33

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by skipmac (Post 2981331)
The cover does have a small lip but the gasket stands proud of the cover so I could insert a feeler between the top of the head and the gasket. I have feeler gauges down to thousandths which wouldn't be that huge.


I thought the leak was at the low end of the cover (the engine, like most is installed at an angle with the back of the engine lower than the front). Last trial I pulled the cover off and saw a trail of oil on the bottom of the gasket (between gasket and head) leading from the front of the block, down one side of the gasket to the back. The other side was perfectly clean and dry.



[emoji848]How about putting a short hose on the crank case vent pipe and blowing into it while brushing the suspect area with soapy water. The dipstick and oil filler might need to be blocked if they're not airtight but even a little bit of positive crankcase pressure will find your leak.

Cheechako 22-09-2019 07:48

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
1 Attachment(s)
As mentioned earlier, my gut says you want the aviation Permatex that is like glue. Not the red silicone Permatex for this.
I like the post above about setting the cover on a flat surface and see if it rocks or is warped.
Also make sure the mating surface on the cover isn't warped like this from over tightening:

skipmac 22-09-2019 09:58

Re: Oil leak from valve cover
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Cheechako (Post 2981824)
As mentioned earlier, my gut says you want the aviation Permatex that is like glue. Not the red silicone Permatex for this.
I like the post above about setting the cover on a flat surface and see if it rocks or is warped.
Also make sure the mating surface on the cover isn't warped like this from over tightening:


Unfortunately I'm on an island with limited options for buying stuff unless I do mail order which takes at least 4-5 days and I really want to get this done. The red Permatex I have is very thick, gooey and certainly like glue in that it works as an adhesive. Also very good gap filling. The biggest concern is it is a pretty good adhesive so getting the cover off again may be a bit of a fight, involving bloody knuckles and a number of words that I would not repeat around the grandkids. But I'm saying this to the 5200 guy so maybe moot. :biggrin:


And I have set the cover on flat surfaces, checked with short and long straight edges and eyeballed it every which way and don't see any obvious issues.


And I have been very careful on the tightening and that might be part of the problem. Perhaps I was not aggressive enough. Have not found any actual ft lbs spec for how tight nor gotten any advise in the thread beyond tight but not too tight kind of comments.



Using my calibrated fingers I guesstimate my first try was in the range of 2-3 ft lbs at most. Any comments on whether that is just right, too little or too much?


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 21:43.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.


ShowCase vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.