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-   -   Canary Islands - some advice? (https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f17/canary-islands-some-advice-205480.html)

northcave 05-08-2018 06:40

Canary Islands - some advice?
 
This is for those that have been and know the Canary Islands well. If you can answer some or all of the below it would be a great help :)

I've never been and we're sailing down the Portuguese coast at the moment. The intention is to sail there around Mid August and spend 3 weeks approx before laying up the boat until early November. We'll then return and sail to Senegal.

Questions:

1. We hate marinas. What's the general rule for anchoring? Somewhere I read it can be problematic and permission is required?
2. Where is a good and cost effective place to leave the boat for 6 weeks. Happy to haul out or be afloat.
3. We like walking, remote Anchorages, diving and surfing. Where would you recommend?
4. We're behind schdule so willnknly have about 3 weeks? Is that enough or should I try and allow more time in November to enjoy the Canary Islands more?
5. What is winter sailing like there should we decide to hang about a little longer?
6. Any other advice for anything all greatly received! Good hikes, restaurants not tonne missed, great diving spots etc :encouragement:

Steini-nor 05-08-2018 07:14

Re: Canary Islands - some advice?
 
I will follow this thread. Just bought my "New" boat in Gran Canaria. Currently moored in Pasito Blanco. I am new to Gran Canaria, so not much experience to transfer am afraid.

Steini-nor 05-08-2018 07:20

Re: Canary Islands - some advice?
 
Noonsite has some good info.

https://www.noonsite.com/Countries/CanaryIslands

barnakiel 05-08-2018 07:44

Re: Canary Islands - some advice?
 
I am in LPGC right now. In and out mostly in since 2008 and onwards.

Some answers:

1. We hate marinas. What's the general rule for anchoring? Somewhere I read it can be problematic and permission is required?

In theory: In the Kingdom of Spain one can only anchor where there is a marked anchorage on the most recent official Spanish chart.

In practice: Catch as you can. If caught, smile, bubble 'lo siento, lo siento' in a bad nordic accent. Then move on. This is not Portugal, you do not get jailed for not hoisting that bloody black ball.

Warning: in single spots, a permit is required RECEIVED BEFOREHAND, most notably at la Graciosa. Environmental concerns.

Warning: do NOT anchor where there are military things ashore (e.g. Gando, GC). National security concerns.

Generally, there are better and more anchorages in the Eastern islands, fewer and worse anchorages in the Western islands.

2. Where is a good and cost effective place to leave the boat for 6 weeks. Happy to haul out or be afloat.

There are countless marinas throughout. City marinas are cheapest. Private ones are not.

3. We like walking, remote Anchorages, diving and surfing. Where would you recommend?

Diving good anywhere, but the dropoff at la Restinga is famed best. I saw a picture of 100+ manta rays there yesterday. No spearfishing, unless you have a local license. Water is cold, much colder than you may expect (only 21 C now). 3mm suit for fun and +5mm suit for longer immersions.

Surfing anywhere on the W or N coats of any island. Watch the surf as you sail by and consult people with surfboards. There are plenty of them around. World Cup surfing competitions (winter). Only Nazre betas this, in Europe.

You can walk anywhere you like. Avoid military grounds though. Outstanding treks up the Teide mountain with snow at the top. This is the HIGHEST mountain in all SPAIN and PORTUGAL. You need more than 24 hours to get up and down. You can have volcanoes and sand (Lanza and Fuerte), rock (GC, and islands west).

Remote anchorages anywhere along the coast (S / SE / SW) where there are no hotels. I like Papagayo very much. I like Montaņa Roja too. Most anchorages are very rolly. The rest are very very rolly.

4. We're behind schdule so willnknly have about 3 weeks? Is that enough or should I try and allow more time in November to enjoy the Canary Islands more?

You must be kidding. 3 weeks is just enough to stop, rest, re-provision and move on. 3 weeks means someone is a babylon zoombie, not a sailor. Even so, I would trade 3 weeks in Canary Islands for the 10 years I spent working for international banking business.

5. What is winter sailing like there should we decide to hang about a little longer?

Canary Islands are not a sailing destination. The weather is generally much rougher than say the Med or Caribbean. Late autumn (November onwards) and winter can be especially rough. Big swell can roll in at any time of the year but is prevalent in the winter. Winds pipe up in many acceleration zones. You can get 45+ knots easily and frighten your crew to death. But it is hardly ever dangerous and we have quick SAR services here. This much said, in the winter you are much better off in Cabo Verde / Africa / Caribbean / etc. Or tied to the dock.

6. Any other advice for anything all greatly received! Good hikes, restaurants not tonne missed, great diving spots etc :encouragement:

Avoid LPGC city marina between September and December. The ARC crowd sets in and occupies 110% of the city marina. The place turns full of pale people with sad faces. Avoid LPGC anchorage in the same period - plenty of anchored boats getting into regular physical contact at regular intervals.

Come to LPGC in winter, during the carnival. LP is on par with Rio: they have the best samba competition, we have the best drag queen competition. And we do not get drunk to push and rob people, like they do. We may get tipsy a bit ;-) and then we will dance in the streets till the morning light.

Local wines are outstanding. You must try at least local Malvasia (sweet/semi or dry) grown on volcanic soil. It is also a great view to visit one of Malvasia wineries, say on Lanzarote. Most picturesque. El Grifo and Geria are two big names for this variety.

Cheers,
barnakiel
LPGC

conachair 05-08-2018 09:23

Re: Canary Islands - some advice?
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by barnakiel (Post 2689710)
This is not Portugal, you do not get jailed for not hoisting that bloody black ball.

Slight aside, but that's actually just not true. Maybe many years ago, these days it's a very welcoming country for cruisers.
As for the OP - not many anchorages around, La Gomera has Valle Gran Reye and Chinguarime which are pretty cool. (With the naked hippies living in caves :) ) Some of the bays can have nasty gusts coming down off the hills some nights.

Fantastic walking in Gomera & La Palma and no doubt the other islands - https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place/...!4d-17.7849931

Sailing usually predictable , occasional lows come round in winter. Great place to check the heavy weather sails, very predictable wind acceleration zones you can go play in, big plus to have the choice to check out the boat and get some more experience in high winds. La Gomera is a favourite among favourites :) Latest word on the waves is you should be left alone in Graciosa anchorage though your supposed to let them know beforehand. Might change overnight of course..

barnakiel 05-08-2018 16:02

Re: Canary Islands - some advice?
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by conachair (Post 2689765)

(...)

Latest word on the waves is you should be left alone in Graciosa anchorage though your supposed to let them know beforehand. Might change overnight of course..

The permit is granted from LP office of 'Puertos Canarios'. You do not have to go to LP to get one. Simply dock in Lanzarote and ask for the permit via fax. Only then go to la Graciosa.

We have been kicked out from the anchorage HOWEVER I know from local people that the permit is only required to visit the port. And this is not in the permit sense but only to grant a berth, which are very limited at Caleta del Sebo small marina.

I think you can simply call them up and check which version of reality is in fashion this year.

https://puertoscanarios.es/project/caleta-de-sebo/

Cheers,
b.

scallowayuk 06-08-2018 09:17

Re: Canary Islands - some advice?
 
hi, for long term ancoring las palmas takes some beating ,not remote but fairly safe, sheltered from most winds, costs are reasonable 1 euro a night for my 8 meter boat. includes use of the dinghy dock in the marina and showers laundry ect nearby. boats over 12 meters pay a tax whever they are. and you can get anything you need for the boat. but no good for diving, but car hire is cheap.

S/V Alchemy 06-08-2018 09:20

Re: Canary Islands - some advice?
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by barnakiel (Post 2689710)
I am in LPGC right now. In and out mostly in since 2008 and onwards.

Some answers:
Cheers,
barnakiel
LPGC




"Pale people with sad faces"...oh, how I chuckled....:wink:

nepal 06-08-2018 09:22

Re: Canary Islands - some advice?
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by barnakiel (Post 2690013)
The permit is granted from LP office of 'Puertos Canarios'. You do not have to go to LP to get one. Simply dock in Lanzarote and ask for the permit via fax. Only then go to la Graciosa.

We have been kicked out from the anchorage HOWEVER I know from local people that the permit is only required to visit the port. And this is not in the permit sense but only to grant a berth, which are very limited at Caleta del Sebo small marina.

I think you can simply call them up and check which version of reality is in fashion this year.

https://puertoscanarios.es/project/caleta-de-sebo/

Cheers,
b.

I got the permit after mailing the form I found on Noonsite.

nepal 06-08-2018 09:34

Re: Canary Islands - some advice?
 
There are protected anchorages in Arrrecife on Lanzarote (but a friend was cicked out after 10 months. Don't know if this was because of a chanve inpolicy or something temporaly), Puerto de Rosario on Fuertoventura and between semptember an march in Las Palmas on Gran Canaria. If winds are turning southerly there will be no protection.

Las Palmas is the cheapest marina I ' ve been in but crowdy an certainly no berths in the ARC period.

The best hiking is on the 3 smallest Island.

barnakiel 06-08-2018 12:30

Re: Canary Islands - some advice?
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by scallowayuk (Post 2690498)
hi, for long term ancoring las palmas takes some beating ,not remote but fairly safe, sheltered from most winds, costs are reasonable 1 euro a night for my 8 meter boat. includes use of the dinghy dock in the marina and showers laundry ect nearby. boats over 12 meters pay a tax whever they are. and you can get anything you need for the boat. but no good for diving, but car hire is cheap.

Yes.

And anchoring in LP is not allowed from May till September, except late arrivals (till early light) and on weekends (technically Friday night till Sunday afternoon, but we have seen boats overstaying this a bit without any penalty).

As far as the laundry within the marina is concerned; AVOID THIS ONE. It is 8 EUR per load (8kg) and we use laundries in town at 3.5 EUR per 10 kg (sic). It has a decent book swap though.

The marina is VERY noisy - there is a busy road running just above it and the place is saturated with bars and restos. It is not very expensive here but then again the facilities Q is at the lowest.

Services / parts availability is outstanding by African/Atlantic standards BUT services Q is another thing. This varies from top tier to scum. Shop around and ask about. Get a presupuesto (sort of pro forma invoice) on any $$-$$$ service or purchase and expect 'delayed' delivery in some cases.

Take it easy and do not rush local people, for all you get is a cold shrug and a label. And the parts you ordered will arrive when they will arrive.

Keep calm and munch platano canario / sip some more Malvasia.

;-)

Cheers,
b.

northcave 11-08-2018 11:07

Re: Canary Islands - some advice?
 
Just a quick one .... what are the Canaries like for diesel prices? Are we best to refuel before leaving Portugal?

keseyken 12-08-2018 03:42

Re: Canary Islands - some advice?
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by northcave (Post 2693943)
Just a quick one .... what are the Canaries like for diesel prices? Are we best to refuel before leaving Portugal?

The Canaries are very well priced for fuel. Diesel is approx a euro per litre.

barnakiel 12-08-2018 07:21

Re: Canary Islands - some advice?
 
Yep.

Diesel at EUR 0.999 throughout town.

Oddly, more expensive at marina dock.

Boats are entitled to tax free fuel on departure BUT SOMEHOW the marina dock does not care. Still, I think a big boat may find this worthwhile and fuel at the commercial dock to save some $$.

Mind that food is priced very reasonably here, so do not come with your lockers full of continental supplies. Just bring in the stuff you cannot live without - if it is something very specific to your homeland or lifestyle (like gruyere, thinbread or fermented cucumbers).

Cheers,
b.

Malfoi 02-12-2018 05:42

Re: Canary Islands - some advice?
 
I want to go as crew from Canary to Caribbean, Bahamas, Florida. Let me know if somebody wants to do such ride.


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