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model 10 28-12-2013 20:31

Mantus Chain Hook
 
I thought this thing would be the greatest. Not so. In just one funky anchorage it ended up grabbing the chain a second time in it's jaw twice in just 2 weeks time. There was lots of bouncing around and of course tidal shifts. The chain ended up getting hooked in the jaw a second time and for some reason that caused everything to get twisted up into a mess. I had it on a 20' snubber on about 150' of chain in about 20' of water.
Back to a rolling hitch for me.

Cotemar 28-12-2013 20:50

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
3 Attachment(s)
You may want to try a 3/16” Soft Shackle through your chain link to give you a positive connection.
A 3/16” Soft Shackle size will fit through the link of a 5/16 G4 anchor chain as a chain hook.
The 3/16" line dia. has an Average Tensile Strength of 5,400 lbs , .340 finish dia.

Kashmir cat 28-12-2013 21:29

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
i've drilled small holes on each side of the jaw opening on my Mantus chain hook and looped a stainless seizing wire between them to prevent the chain hook from coming off the chain as it travels over my anchor roller. It seems this wire across the jaw opening would also prevent the chain hook from hooking the chain twice as you described.

thinwater 28-12-2013 22:04

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Cotemar (Post 1425741)
You may want to try a 3/16” Soft Shackle through your chain link to give you a positive connection.
A 3/16” Soft Shackle size will fit through the link of a 5/16 G4 anchor chain as a chain hook.
The 3/16" line dia. has a 5,400 lbs working load limit, .340 finish dia.

3/16" Amsteel has a breaking strength of 5400 pounds. This is about 1/2 the strength of the chain. The working load is perhaps 4-7 times less than this. The size Amsteel loop that would fit through the G4 links is limitied.

Not sayin' this won't work, just sayin it might as well be matched with a lighter snubber.

Cotemar 29-12-2013 07:17

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
2 Attachment(s)
Thinwater,

Here’s the numbers, so it makes the anchor chain the weakest member of the ground tackle setup.
5/16 G4 anchor chain has a working Load Limit of 3,900 lbs.
3/16" Amsteel Soft Shackle has a Average Tensile Strength of 5,400 lbs
5/8 three strand nylon snubber with rubber snubbers has outstanding stretch.

This system works very well and its fast to connect and un-connect and it will not come loose in shallow water with your bridle riding on the bottom.

The bridle with the rubber snubbers removes any snatch loads from high wind and waves. It’s much more pleasant at anchor in lumpy bad weather.

Vasco 29-12-2013 07:38

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
What's wrong with just an old fashioned chain hook? Been using one for years. Does the Mantus or the soft shackle work better?

Cape Charters 29-12-2013 07:49

Cotemar, Just ordered one of your soft shackles. What type/brand rubber snubbers are you using in your setup? Thank Dave

FSMike 29-12-2013 07:49

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
Interesting.

Guy & Cotemar -
I never let my bridle come in contact with the bottom. There's enough stuff down there to snag an anchor rode without doubling your chances.

Kashmir cat -
I attach/detach my bridle forward of the anchor roller, after the anchor is deployed to my satisfaction.

I haven't had any problems with my Mantus hook, and find it easy to move when adjusting the scope for different weather conditions.

By the way, a bridle implies two lines used to control something, be it a cat or a horse. Bridal implies getting married.

Cotemar 29-12-2013 08:04

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
3 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Cape Charters (Post 1425990)
Cotemar, What type/brand rubber snubbers are you using in your setup? Thank Dave

I am using two Falcon Line Master Mooring Snubber for 5/8 line on my Catamaran.

Falcon Safety Mooring Line Snubber / Compensator - 5/8"

Worked great on my Mono hull also.

thinwater 29-12-2013 09:20

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Cotemar (Post 1425964)
Thinwater,

Here’s the numbers, so it makes the anchor chain the weakest member of the ground tackle setup.
5/16 G4 anchor chain has a working Load Limit of 3,900 lbs.
3/16" Amsteel Soft Shackle has a working load limit of 5,400 lbs
5/8 three strand nylon snubber with rubber snubbers has outstanding stretch.

This system works very well and its fast to connect and un-connect and it will not come loose in shallow water with your bridle riding on the bottom.

The bridle with the rubber snubbers removes any snatch loads from high wind and waves. It’s much more pleasant at anchor in lumpy bad weather.

What confuses me is that I believe you have quoted a WLL of about 2x what well known (Colligo, Kohlhoff) companies quote and individual testers have reported. Could you explain the descrepancy?

Not that I dislike the idea. I've used spectra slings for years. I just wonder where the numbers come from. The SWL for 5mm shackles is generally listed at about 2000 pounds, which is already a very low safety factor compared to other cordage.

Cotemar 29-12-2013 09:32

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
thinwater,

Here is the 3/16 amsteel line specs, but test have shown Soft Shackles are much stronger than the Average Tensile Strength of 5,400 lbs

Samson AmSteel-Blue Single Braid

Kashmir cat 29-12-2013 10:48

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Cotemar (Post 1426005)
I am using two Falcon Line Master Mooring Snubber for 5/8 line on my Catamaran.

Falcon Safety Mooring Line Snubber / Compensator - 5/8"

Worked great on my Mono hull also.

I used those snubbers on my winter storm dock lines at some pretty rough marinas in the PNW and loved them. I then put a set on my boat in Florida for the hurricane season. They lasted one season and then completely disenegrated in the sun. I only got one year out of them compared to several years in the PNW. I like the concept of integrating them into a bridle, but they would have to be replaced yearly if cruising the tropics.

Cotemar 29-12-2013 10:59

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Kashmir cat (Post 1426120)
I used those snubbers on my winter storm dock lines at some pretty rough marinas in the PNW and loved them. I then put a set on my boat in Florida for the hurricane season. They lasted one season and then completely disenegrated in the sun. I only got one year out of them compared to several years in the PNW. I like the concept of integrating them into a bridle, but they would have to be replaced yearly if cruising the tropics.

Not much holds out in the tropic sun. Your rib inflatable needs expensive chaps. Your Catamaran Tramp degrades faster. Your canvas starts to break down. I would rap these snubbers with a sunbrella cover that lets them stretch, but keeps the sun off of them in the tropics.

Where I am, they last over ten years in sun, wind and waves

colemj 29-12-2013 11:19

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Cotemar (Post 1426061)
thinwater,

Here is the 3/16 amsteel line specs, but test have shown Soft Shackles are much stronger than the working load limit of 5,400 lbs

Samson AmSteel-Blue Single Braid

Samson is very unclear about the published loads on this line. The 5,400 lb figure is the breaking load (tensile strength), not the working load.

The working load would be a multiple below this (pick your poison).

Mark

Celestialsailor 29-12-2013 13:26

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
I've not yet had a problem with my Mantus chain hook. My feeling is that somehow it ended up lying on the bottom during a low tide.

Cotemar 29-12-2013 14:10

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
Here is a nice video to show how strong Soft Shackles really are.

He is testing a 1/8" Amsteel Soft Shackle with a tensile strenght of 2500lbs.

His comment was that the Amsteel is rated at 2500 pounds, but he would estimate he put more like 4000 pounds on it. He goes on to say that a splice does not degrade the line as was thought.

MVI 7656 - YouTube

colemj 29-12-2013 14:23

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
I have no doubt Amsteel breaks at higher loads than they published (it had better not break at lower loads). I was just pointing out that Samson publishes breaking load for that line, and not working load. They are confusing on that point since they publish working load for their other lines and do not make a clear distinction of the change for the Amsteel numbers.

Regarding the Mantus hook problem, didn't Mantus change the design so that the slot was captured by a gate after hooking it to the chain? I seem to remember something about a gate on that slot now. Seems easy enough to install one if you don't have it.

Mark

estarzinger 29-12-2013 14:44

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
He has some other soft shackle test data on his site . . .this is with NER line

Note: everything here is breaking strength, NOT SWL

# Shackle Type Line size Breaking force Rated strength strength % of line strength
1 Single 3 / 16 7,082 6,100 116%
2 Single 3 / 16 6,288 6,100 103%
3 Single 5 / 16 15,995 14,500 110%

Approximate Breaking Strength 5/32 Amsteel 3/16 Amsteel 1/4 Amsteel
4,000 pounds 5,400 pounds 8,600 pounds

I don't know what safety factor we should apply, certainly 2:1 and perhaps 4:1

At 2:1 those translate to SWL: 2000lbs for 5/32, 2700lbs for 3/16, and 4300lbs for 1/4".

I will have some more data on this, from my new test bench, in January

Nicholson58 29-12-2013 14:53

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Cotemar (Post 1426005)
I am using two Falcon Line Master Mooring Snubber for 5/8 line on my Catamaran.

Falcon Safety Mooring Line Snubber / Compensator - 5/8"

Worked great on my Mono hull also.


Is that your normal set-up? I think that part of the duty of the snubber is to transfer the load away from the bow roller & windlass. I take my snubber/bridle to the port or starboard bollards.

colemj 29-12-2013 14:54

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by estarzinger (Post 1426324)
I don't know what safety factor we should apply, certainly 2:1 and perhaps 4:1

For use connecting a snubber to a chain, I would be happy with 2:1 or even 1:1. The chain is stopped off the windlass with a very strong fitting, so a broken bridle connection is not dangerous.

Mark

Kenomac 29-12-2013 15:03

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
We've had no problems using either a standard chain hook or the Ultra chain hook along with an oversized rubber snupper as seen in an earlier post.

Nicholson58 29-12-2013 15:07

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Cotemar (Post 1426289)
Here is a nice video to show how strong Soft Shackles really are.

He is testing a 1/8" Amsteel Soft Shackle with a tensile strenght of 2500lbs.

His comment was that the Amsteel is rated at 2500 pounds, but he would estimate he put more like 4000 pounds on it. He goes on to say that a splice does not degrade the line as was thought.

MVI 7656 - YouTube

I don't see how he has any idea what load he applied. No load cell/scale. He only demonstrated that the line would part where its single strength rather than at the splices or doublers. I'm sure the manufacturer's data or independant tests such as by Practical Sailor or other folks is adequate data.

If you make a loop of line as shown in post 2 you reach a theoretical 2X load capacity less the stress concentration of the knot. Its about the same as a rolling hitch or prussic knot.

Cotemar 29-12-2013 15:10

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by colemj (Post 1426303)
I have no doubt Amsteel breaks at higher loads than they published (it had better not break at lower loads). I was just pointing out that Samson publishes breaking load for that line, and not working load. They are confusing on that point since they publish working load for their other lines and do not make a clear distinction of the change for the Amsteel numbers.

Regarding the Mantus hook problem, didn't Mantus change the design so that the slot was captured by a gate after hooking it to the chain? I seem to remember something about a gate on that slot now. Seems easy enough to install one if you don't have it.

Mark

They have a New Mantus Hook Gate which makes it nearly impossible for the Mantus Hook to come off the chain… and yet easily opens to unlock

estarzinger 29-12-2013 15:20

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
Interesting . . .but if you have that gate . . . .do you still need all the rest of the hook's "features" . . . .would the gate would be a good addition to just a standard hook, which is rather smaller and lighter than the Mantus.

I have two of the 'pre-gate' Mantus hooks and don't like them. They did fall off, but are harder to get on and off when you want to than a normal hook.

Cotemar 29-12-2013 15:56

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
8 Attachment(s)
Other than the snubbers non-captive chain hook just popping off for no reason in wind, wave, shock load or tides.

The only real worry I have with chain hooks is that when you back down on them the snubber stretches a lot and if some un-notice chafe snaps the snubber, then the chain hook becomes a heavy projectile. On My Catalina 380 I used to walk back to the cockpit so as not to get hit with anything as the snubber stretched on the anchor being set.

Sid at SailAway 29-12-2013 16:24

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
@ Cotemar...I know that there is probably no problem with breaking strength on the soft shackle, but do you worry about chafe with a synthetic fiber acting as a chain hook? I use the Mantus as well and in a years time it has come off twice. Both times laying on the bottom in five foot of water in a tidal switch. But I've never worried about it chafing through. No disrespect intended..Thoughts on this? Sid

Mantus Anchors 29-12-2013 16:55

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Celestialsailor (Post 1426262)
I've not yet had a problem with my Mantus chain hook. My feeling is that somehow it ended up lying on the bottom during a low tide.

guys just an update we are making injection molds now, but if you want the gate now just email us and we will 3D print one for you....
all we need is you address and the size hook you have...
Mantus Hook Locker! -

Cotemar 29-12-2013 17:32

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Sid at SailAway (Post 1426388)
@ Cotemar...I know that there is probably no problem with breaking strength on the soft shackle, but do you worry about chafe with a synthetic fiber acting as a chain hook? I use the Mantus as well and in a years time it has come off twice. Both times laying on the bottom in five foot of water in a tidal switch. But I've never worried about it chafing through. No disrespect intended..Thoughts on this? Sid

Amsteel Soft Shackles have excellent abrasion resistance.
Excellent flex-fatigue resistance
Excellent wear characteristics
Extremely lightweight
Extremely low stretch
Floats
Lightweight
Maximum strength-to-weight ratio
UV stabilized

Here is a Soft Shackles being used on a 72’ Nordhavn as he circumnavigates. This boat weighs in at 240,000 lbs

JonJo 29-12-2013 21:35

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
Cotemar,

I might have misunderstood - but you seem to suggest you back down on the 'rode' with the snubber attached and have a fear something will break.

2 Items, the load you apply backing down should be factorially smaller than the possible load from wind and waves - so if there is a fear of breakage (from backing down) something is too weak.

But why do you back down with the snubber attached, why not back down with only the chain and then apply the snubber?

We would deploy 3:1 and then back down. If an modern anchor does not set at 3:1 then there is an issue (poor holding, something in the anchor toe) we would then deploy whatever scope is needed and then attach the snubber. If you deploy all the chain and back down and something is not quite right, you have it all to take in again.

But I might have misunderstood what you were describing.

And we use a standard chain hook which works perfectly, can be applied and removed single handed and we always have the weight of the chain keeping it in tension. If the chain hook touches the seabed - we are hard aground.




On other aspects - I was under the vague impression that 'conventionally' cordage had a 4:1 safety factor? Our trampoline was guaranteed for 10 years, is now 13 years old and has not a break in it (we are quite a way south of the tropics) - though we do replace the individual securing cords, maybe every 2-3 years.

Jonathan

Celestialsailor 29-12-2013 21:51

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
I almost never back down on my chain around the gypsy. I always use the snubber to do so. Why stress it?

JonJo 29-12-2013 22:10

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Celestialsailor (Post 1426606)
I almost never back down on my chain around the gypsy. I always use the snubber to do so. Why stress it?

Simple, you use a chain claw, or chain hook attached to a metre of line (whatever you like) and attach to whatever you have that is the equivalent to a Samson post (centre line cleat?) You then are not backing down on the gypsy.

Jonathan

noelex 77 30-12-2013 04:09

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by JonJo (Post 1426598)
We would deploy 3:1 and then back down. If an modern anchor does not set at 3:1 then there is an issue (poor holding, something in the anchor toe) we would then deploy whatever scope is needed and then attach the snubber. If you deploy all the chain and back down and something is not quite right, you have it all to take in again.

It is quite rare for a new generation anchor not to set the first time so generally I set with the full amount of chain and normal snubber out. It is a bit of work to wind this in again if the anchor does not set, but this should is rare with a good quality anchor.

There seems little point setting the anchor less well with smaller scope scope and then deploying more rode. Why not set it better with more scope?

The exception is if you are deploying a very large scope in deep water, particularly in weedy or rocky anchorages with all chain. With a very large scope the drag of the rode can diminish the force at the anchor and reduce the depth of set.
In general the sweet spot for setting the anchor optimally is considerably greater than 3:1 so if you intend to deploy more scope my advice would be set the anchor at your full scope (unless it is very large) and the anchor will burry a bit deeper.

If you need to anchor at a very short scope, if possible, it is worth setting the anchor at a longer scope if maximum holding is required. The scope can be shortened after the anchor is set.

As has been said don't apply setting loads to the winch.

JonJo 30-12-2013 04:26

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
I must admit that my anchoring experiences are in variable (by variable I mean - I don't know what they are) seabeds, usually with unknown bottoms. Background might suggest sand but having anchored in sand to find its actually sand of 2 inch deep over loose rock - I'm cautious. Also anchoring in sand patches in weed beds means if you miss the sand and hit the weed - then deploying 50m of chain means you need to reel it all in and start again. Experience suggests deploying as little as sensible. Obviously if its all well know and reliably documented then deploying at 5:1 or 7:1 makes sense.

However even when deploying on a known seabed I would still set the anchor on the rode, minus the snubber, its actually quite easy for us to take the load off the windlass. Once its set we then attach the snubber. Backing up on the snubber I personally find it less easy to determine if the anchor is holding - simply because of the elasticity of the snubber. With an inelastic chain its obvious the anchor is well set.

But I agree - modern anchors usually set well and quickly, we are simply not complacent and this is imbued by visiting less frequented places with minimal documentation.

Each to their own.

Jonathan

estarzinger 30-12-2013 06:42

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by JonJo (Post 1426725)
We would deploy 3:1 and then back down. If an modern anchor does not set at 3:1 then there is an issue (poor holding, something in the anchor toe) we would then deploy whatever scope is needed and then attach the snubber. If you deploy all the chain and back down and something is not quite right, you have it all to take in again.

I will comment that setting on shorter scope and then letting more out is generally not the recommend best practice, for two reasons: (a) you will get false negatives (eg it fails to set at the shorter scope when it might have at the longer scope), and (b) the anchor could be less well/deeply set than it would be if you did it at the longer scope.

Your approach seems tailored to the fact you find picking up chain to be hard work and you want to minimize that. That's fine, it sounds like you have worked out the best compromise for you. But when presenting it as a solution to others they should note/realize it is tailored to your situation.


Backing up on the snubber I personally find it less easy to determine if the anchor is holding - simply because of the elasticity of the snubber. With an inelastic chain its obvious the anchor is well set.

Again, if it works for you, fine. But generally the best practice for checking whether you are really set has nothing to do with the rode at all. It is watching a transit on the beam. If the transit is stopped you are set and if it is moving you are not. I find that it is pretty easy to be fooled by how the chain feels/acts - it can be 'jumpy' and still set if you are on a rock bottom - it can 'come to a sudden halt' but still not be 'set' if for instance it hits a rock but then slowly slides by it.


However even when deploying on a known seabed I would still set the anchor on the rode, minus the snubber, its actually quite easy for us to take the load off the windlass.

Well, I guess that suggests your main snubber is not fast or easy to deploy, and you have an easier/faster method just to take the load off the windless. Again, fine, sounds like a compromise you have worked out for your boat, but not necessary if the snubber is easy to deploy.

.........

colemj 30-12-2013 07:22

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
A bridle on a catamaran is not as easy to deploy as a single line snubber used with mono's. Also, the catamaran bridle tends to be longer than what most mono's use for a snubber (ours is 25' each leg) and thus more springy, which causes "rubber banding" when backing down hard. We too find setting the anchor with it deployed less precise in determining a good set than using just the rode on a hard stop. It could be shortened for setting and then let out after, of course, but that gets to the first point.

Overall, we find it most practical on our catamaran to let out the scope we plan to anchor with, lock the chain load off the windlass using a chain hook connected to a short piece of Amsteel on a central cleat, set the anchor and then deploy the bridle.

Same as JonJo, only we set on longer scope.

Mark

Celestialsailor 30-12-2013 08:03

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by JonJo (Post 1426612)
Simple, you use a chain claw, or chain hook attached to a metre of line (whatever you like) and attach to whatever you have that is the equivalent to a Samson post (centre line cleat?) You then are not backing down on the gypsy.

Jonathan

I don't see the need for a chain claw when all I need to do is choke the snubber line to a few feet from the cleat to the chain and set the anchor. Then simply pay the snubber out and not allow it to touch the bottom.

estarzinger 30-12-2013 08:33

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by colemj (Post 1426821)
A bridle on a catamaran is not as easy to deploy as a single line snubber used with mono's.

I have heard that, but I don't understand why? Don't you hook it to the chain and let it out, pretty much the same as on a mono. And if you have to re-anchor you pull it in with the windless and unhook it, pretty much the same as on a mono. If you use a soft shackle, you can roll it in and out over the chain roller, and do all the hooking and unhooking on deck with no leaning or bending or jigging the hook on the chain.

I must be missing something . . . can you explain why it is so much harder on a cat?


Also, the catamaran bridle tends to be longer than what most mono's use for a snubber (ours is 25' each leg) and thus more springy, which causes "rubber banding" when backing down hard.

The length of snubber on mono's varry's greatly. Some use very long ones, and others use short ones. So that is really not a mono vs cat distinction.

However, my point was that in fact using the feel of the rode/chain/snubber is (generally) not the best way to be sure you are set. That is to watch a beam transit. You can , or at least I can and have been, fooled by the 'feel of the set' and I don't pay it any attention at all any more. Perhaps you and Jojo are much more sensitive and accurate at judging feel than I am, that is certainly possible, but a transit is certain - you are either stopped and set or you are not.

Using a short amsteel snubber to set the anchor and then switching to the main snubber after being set seems to me like a bunch of extra work without (generally) producing better results. That's my opinion . . . I appreciate you disagree.


JoJo is taking what are generally considered two 'short cuts', both of which seem at least in part designed to simplify the work if the anchor does not set. If someone has trouble getting the anchor to set, I can see those being a worthwhile compromise. But my anchor sets most of the time, so I don't see much point in taking those short cuts.

There are obviously a lot of different ways to skin this cat.

...........

Sid at SailAway 30-12-2013 08:40

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
When we anchor I let out a 3-1 scope and do what I call a "soft" set. By soft set I let the boat drift back with the wind and/or tide and feel the hook dig in. There's minimal stress on the windless. Then I let out a 5-1 scope including bridle and have the wife back down HARD to finish setting the hook. If the hook doesn't grab at 3-1 then all I have to do is bring in the short scope and try again. This avoids having to disconnect the bridle and haul in a 5-1 scope and start over again. If the wind and/or tide is really strong during the soft set, the wife will use a little forward throttle to offset so again to minimize strain on the windlass. This has worked good for us so far...Sid

estarzinger 30-12-2013 09:20

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
Sid, interesting . . . so perhaps this a cat thing . . . I still can't understand why it would be. and would be interested to learn why.

As you say it does seem to be at least in part in case the hook does not grab. So, is it because cats set first time less frequently because they (generally) carry lighter ground tackle? That's the only thing I can think of.

colemj 30-12-2013 09:24

Re: Mantus chain hook
 
I didn't mean to imply that it was onerous - just a bit more cumbersome. Yes, putting the bridle on is fairly easy, but if one's plan was to adjust it while setting anchor, the connection points are 20' apart and require crossing the chain to reach them. When let out as normal, we find them too springy for setting - they do not transfer good continuous force to the anchor and that movement makes visual bearings more difficult.

Funny, setting anchor on the rode only and my foot on the chain, I can tell we are not set before the bearings change enough to be noticeable. I have yet to fail to detect a drag or bad set this way. In fact, I can usually guess the bottom composition pretty accurately, as well as how deeply the anchor set and how far it moved before setting. We don't rely just on my foot, of course. Two of us (me on the bow and Michele at the helm) take visual bearings while backing down. All three indicators (me, her and my foot) must agree to be "anchored".

The chain hook on amsteel chain stop is no problem at all - it is connected to a center cleat that the chain travels right next to. It is only a matter of kicking it off the chain when letting out the bridle. It also serves as the chain stop should there be a bridle failure, as well as the chain stop when the anchor is on the roller, so all that "extra work" has valuable purpose to us.

Mark


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