Propane Stove Repair

[nickatnite]

I am trying to find someone who could repair or replace the gimbal propane stove on my sailboat.

The propane tank is full, the solenoid valve sounds like it opens but the gas doesn't go to the stove. It's an older boat so I'm not sure what the problem is.

[cal40john]

Sure marine in Seattle probably knows repair people to recommend, but that might not be helpful if you're in Australia or wherever.

[bad.wabbit]

Disconnect line at the stove and see if you get gas flow. If yes, then something weird is going on with the stove. Else reconnect and start opening up fittings in your gas locker (really should only be the solenoid valve and the pressure regulator) to see which one is not passing gas. It may also be the safety valve on your gas tank totally shutting down the supply, but that would be unusual, too. If everything works in the gas locker, then there is possibly a kink or a valve in the supply line to the stove outside of the gas locker, which there shouldn't be one per code.

[boatman61]

Is there a governor after the solenoid , if so it could be that the diaphragm is likely stuffed. New governor needed.

[pcmm]

Typically its the solenoid that has gone bad (assuming the tank is open). I've never had one last longer than 3-4 years. That assumes that the solenoid has been installed on the correct side of the regulator, The low pressure side.

[donradcliffe]

Is the boat new to you, or have you had the stove working in the past?

[Pete7]

Nic, were about on this blue planet are you?

These folk are normally helpful but may not be willing to fly trans Atlantic:

https://www.socal.co.uk/marineshop

[bcboomer]

Is it a freshly filled tank? Do you have a pressure gauge? I have this problem when the idiot filling it overfills the tank and the safety kicks in. Then when I open the tank valve it shows no pressure.
Or your solenoid is shot.

[Bycrick]

Just to let you know that you shouldn’t uncritically believe what you read here, in 30 years of living aboard using propane stoves, I’ve only had a solenoid go bad once. In that case, during a 3-week passage, the locker drain clogged and the locker filled completely with sea water. After repairing the corroded wire to the coil, the solenoid worked until I replaced it for another reason 10+ years later. OTOH, I’ve had 3 regulators go bad. That’s why I replaced the ridiculous low-pressure-side solenoid with one designed to be placed in the high-pressure side, before the regulator. They’re readily available and less than half-the price of the "marine grade" low pressure ones.

[toddster8]

I'm with Bycrick. In fifty years of operating complex farm, laboratory, and boat equipment, I've had more regulators go bad than solenoids. Although both do fail.

If an upstream solenoid fails, no gas is delivered. If an upstream regulator fails, potentially catastrophic outpour of flammable gas occurs and shutting off the "safety" solenoid has no effect. I install the proper solenoid on the high pressure side. It does draw a little more electricity when in use.

But the OP was looking for someone to do it for them, so perhaps DIY details don't matter.

[donradcliffe]

I've had two solenoids fail, one by partially shorting the coil so that it drew 10 amps and tripped the circuit breaker. The other one just failed to open.

[SVTatia]

Originally Posted by Bycrick

Just to let you know that you shouldn’t uncritically believe what you read here, in 30 years of living aboard using propane stoves, I’ve only had a solenoid go bad once. In that case, during a 3-week passage, the locker drain clogged and the locker filled completely with sea water. After repairing the corroded wire to the coil, the solenoid worked until I replaced it for another reason 10+ years later. OTOH, I’ve had 3 regulators go bad. That’s why I replaced the ridiculous low-pressure-side solenoid with one designed to be placed in the high-pressure side, before the regulator. They’re readily available and less than half-the price of the "marine grade" low pressure ones.

I agree with you with the solenoid on the HP side, and respectfully disagree with pcmm on post #5.

[pesarsten]

Just as an FYI, there are safety features built into the OPD tank valve ( presume he has one) that will lock out gas flow if the tank valve is opened when an appliance is calling for gas.
see the link
Safe use when barbecue grill doesn’t ignite or properly get hot — Gas Grills, Parts, Fireplaces And Service.
hope you solve you problem easily.

[Cheechako]

The only failures I've had were regulators, and they can go bad for some reason regularly. Track the path, find out where the gas stops.

[capt jgw]

Originally Posted by pcmm

Typically its the solenoid that has gone bad (assuming the tank is open). I've never had one last longer than 3-4 years. That assumes that the solenoid has been installed on the correct side of the regulator, The low pressure side.

The instructions for the Xintex Fireboy system I installed last year said to put the solenoid on the HIGH pressure side. I'd never seen it done that way, even on a similar Xintex system I installed some years earlier. Since Xintex is a local company here in Grand Rapids and I know people who work there I asked about it. Their tech told me they changed the instructions due to problems with the regulators leaking. The solenoid can't stop a leak upstream from itself so they now want it upstream of the regulator. Makes sense but subjects the solenoid to much higher pressure.
Back to the original question, it could be the OPV valve in the tank. One of their features is a high flow cut off, shuts off the gas if the flow rate is too high, as in a broken gas line. My turkey fryer does this if I open the tank valve with the burner valve open. Gas flows too fast and the OPV shuts off. Try turning off the tank valve, then disconnect and reconnect the hose from the tank. That should reset the OPV.