The Uni Fid Kit from NE Ropes

[SeanMaine]

Does anyone have experience using the Uni Fid Kit from NE Ropes? I recently decided to learn how to splice and bought it, but I've had mixed success and was hoping someone smarter than I could offer some advice.
This is a link to the product (hope I added that link correctly).

What separate these fids from normal fids is a hook on the end that attaches to the line that you are burying. It works pretty well with new line as long as I tape it well, but I've really struggled to use it with older line. Even if it's taped well, it doesn't handle pressure well. When I have to massage the fid and the line I'm burying through the cover, the tape either peels back allowing the glue to grip the cover or the hook protrudes through the tape and snags the cover. I've tried using varying amounts of tape: too much swells the diameter to a size that struggles to pass through the cover; too little and either the line I'm burying detaches from the hook or the hook snags the cover.

I've done a decent amount of research and this is the only information I've found... Does anyone use these? Any tips for attaching the fid to the line to be buried? Is it just inadvisable to use this type of fid with used line?

[Benz]

Hi Sean,

I haven't used the unifid, but If I'm not careful about taping when using my Samson fids, the tape can roll and a sticky bit of it catch. It pays to cut the tape with scissors to get a good edge, and I use green masking tape, since it's kind of slippery and rolls less than electrical tape.
But better than all that is something like the D-splicer. I made my own out of piano wire, and find it very useful for those times when a normal fid won't do.
Be advised that splicing used polyester double-braid is not worth the frustration. While other used lines splice OK, double braid is the very Devil unless it's brand new.

[Paul L]

If you are talking about splicing used double braid, then nothing works well. To splice double braid you have to get the cover loose enough. Some double braid have looser covers than others. Used double braid has been stretched out, making splicing really tough.

[HankOnthewater]

Sorry, I have no experience with the "Uni Fid", I use other type of fids.

Agree with above that splicing used braid is next to impossible. If the line had only little use, you may wash the line in the washing machine and use a fabric softener. You may have then a small chance that you can splice it, it still will be hard to do.

[Chuck Hawley]

A key is to use extremely slippery tape. I think Marlow and other rope companies make stretchy tape that is also very slick, and then you need to wrap it so that it's smooth and tapered.

This is especially true with Selma fids, which more or less require that you tape the rope in place during a double-braided splice.

Chuck Hawley

[SeanMaine]

Cutting the tape with scissors is a good idea; I'll try that... and I've been using electrical tape - that's what has rolled on me. So maybe I'll try some masking tape. What is a D-Splicer? I will Google it this afternoon.

[SeanMaine]

What do you mean by "tapered" with regards to the tape? Should it come to a point on the fid?

I know what you mean if you're talking about the end to be buried.

[Utahsailor]

I hated those hooked fids and have found the Brion Toss wands to be the easiest for me, especially if I taper the line before pulling it through. The D splicer and the wand both let you pull the line through, instead of pushing it through as with fids. For tiny 1/8" Dyneema, I made a D splicer like instrument from florist's wire.

Electrical tape was bad, blue masking tape too, tan better but special rigger's tape was best of all (Marlow and Premium ropes)

[StuM]

Originally Posted by Utahsailor

For tiny 1/8" Dyneema, I made a D splicer like instrument from florist's wire.

I've got a couple I've made out of 1.5 and 2mm tie wire. Hadn't thought of florist's wire - must try to get some for small stuff.

[Mike Banks]

I have a similar kit although by a different manufacturer and it does work OK. One of my pals does this sort of thing a lot and he uses a fid he made up from stainless steel welding rods, but I use a plastic coated wire clothes hanger for a lot of the work.

Another person buys aluminium tubing in the diameters required, and crimps them down on to the taped strands.

I find the clothes hanger pretty effective. You pull it out into one long narrow loop--and you can have five of them for less than a dollar. You push it through, the pull the strand through with it rather than using the fid to lead the strands through.

[SeanMaine]

Originally Posted by Mike Banks

I find the clothes hanger pretty effective. You pull it out into one long narrow loop--and you can have five of them for less than a dollar. You push it through, the pull the strand through with it rather than using the fid to lead the strands through.

I like this idea a lot. I am new to this though so I'm having a hard tim envisioning it. Do you stretch the hanger into a long narrow U or V shape? When pulling the hanger through the rope, does the bottom of the U or V lead the way? How do you attach the strand to the hanger?

Thanks to everyone for their help and generosity!

... and patience!

[Benz]

Originally Posted by SeanMaine

I like this idea a lot. I am new to this though so I'm having a hard tim envisioning it. Do you stretch the hanger into a long narrow U or V shape? When pulling the hanger through the rope, does the bottom of the U or V lead the way? How do you attach the strand to the hanger?

Thanks to everyone for their help and generosity!

... and patience!

Sean, the hanger is bent into a sharp u. You use it to pull the tail through the body of the line, rather than push it attached to a fid. The tail attaches to the U by being squeezed between the two legs of the coat hanger. Look up videos of images for D-splicer and you'll see it in a flash.