Solo Nonstop Circumnavigation

[Catamount]

Originally Posted by Richard Z

Does anybody know how to rig a mainsail reefing that can be done from cockpit, thats of course other than im mast furling?

Yes, you need either a "single-line" reefing system, or a two-line reefing system. I'll start with the second first.

Just as you would with normal slab or jiffy reefing, you run a reefing line from the boom up through the reef clew cringle and back down to a sheave in or on the boom. From there the line goes forward. In a typical jiffy reef system, it might go to a winch on the boom and then a cleat, so you have to go forward to pull in that reef line and to hook the reef tack cringle on the reef horn at the gooseneck. Instead, run the the line over another sheave at the forward end of the boom, down to the deck, and then back to the cockpit, so that you can pull it in from there. For the tack, just run a separate line from the reef tack cringle down to the deck and back to the cockpit. Now you do need to be careful of the lead and make sure that you have a pull forward on the tack cringle as well as down.

For a single line system, when the clew reefing line gets to the forward end of the boom, run it up through the reef tack cringle and then back down to the deck. You still have to worry about the lead and the pull forward.

Some so-called "single-line" systems have a complicated set of blocks housed inside the boom that are supposed to balance the load between the tack and clew and bring them in simultaneously, but I think that's just making things much more complicated than they need to be.

An earlier iteration of my single-line system is described with photos on my website, at this link (I've made a few changes, but haven't updated the photos or description).

It should be noted that the single-line system on my boat works well because (1) I have a relatively small, high-aspect mainsail, (2) I have a low-friction Strong Track mainsail luff track and slide system which facilitates the sail going up and down the mast easily (and on almost any point of sail), and (3) I have taken care to look after the leads of the lines and the placement of blocks and such.

I have the halyard pre-marked for the reef positions. To use, we ease the sheet and the vang, let the halyard out to the mark, and then winch in the reef line. Vang on and sheet in. Done. To shake out the reef, release the reef line and crank in the halyard until the sail is up. Set the vang as necessary and sheet in. Done.

Still, it is not perfect.

[hoppy]

A 16 year old girl did RTWNS in a pink yacht, so how hard can it be

[hoppy]

Originally Posted by Richard Z

Does anybody know how to rig a mainsail reefing that can be done from cockpit, thats of course other than im mast furling?
thanks

My boat has Z-spar single line reefing which is controlled from the cockpit



Z SPARS UK - single line reefing booms

and Harken has kits for dual line reefing from the cockpit for your sized boat Harken Mainsail Reefing Systems

[hoppy]

Originally Posted by Catamount

Some so-called "single-line" systems have a complicated set of blocks housed inside the boom that are supposed to balance the load between the tack and clew and bring them in simultaneously, but I think that's just making things much more complicated than they need to be.

true

Z-Spar in-boom

[tropicalescape]

Originally Posted by David_Old_Jersey

$10 on Syria - it's the President planning ahead

If only it were true ...would save a lot of lives.

[svcambria]

I vote for Serbia - he is perhaps a descendant of the Unknown Archont, wanting to do something (anonymously) for the country again...

Michael

[zeehag]

richard-- when reefing, just drop the main--- willbe better in big winds with only jib n jigger...... keeps balance in our tanks and wont knock ye down. moves nicely also. our decks are wide enough to make going some what forward not so bad..then , main down, attach the tethers to a line from mast to mast and main isnt an issue. and tethers wont allow ye to g oover board...if ye keep em 6 ft-- these boats are 12'2 wide.

helps to have a thick skin and a sense of humour whenye have a FORMOSA...LOL

ps that fancy new fangled stuff doesnt work on our wooden booms and wooden masts..... ????? see leaky teaky yacht club group in yahoo groups.....they will have a definitive answer and many do sail solo...

and that lil gurlee wasnt driving a formosa..LOL

[Jamel]

Originally Posted by hoppy

A 16 year old girl did RTWNS in a pink yacht, so how hard can it be

I have no idea why anyone would want to circumnavigate non-stop. bypassing the worlds most beautiful destinations. For what....5 minutes of fame? Risking a huge possibility of disaster at their own hand. Crazy!

[Richard Z]

[QUOTE=zeehag;729315]richard-- when reefing, just drop the main--- willbe better in big winds with only jib n jigger...... keeps balance in our tanks and wont knock ye down. moves nicely also. our decks are wide enough to make going some what forward not so bad..then , main down, attach the tethers to a line from mast to mast and main isnt an issue. and tethers wont allow ye to g oover board...if ye keep em 6 ft-- these boats are 12'2 wide.

helps to have a thick skin and a sense of humour whenye have a FORMOSA...LOL

ps that fancy new fangled stuff doesnt work on our wooden booms and wooden masts..... ????? see leaky teaky yacht club group in yahoo groups.....they will have a definitive answer and many do sail solo...

and that lil gurlee wasnt driving a formosa..LOL[/QUOTE

Dear zeehag,

My formosa pretty much is out of teak except some decorative items.
im talkig on the outside. The things that are still teak are:
the hatches which have a decorative teak top layer, but underneath is reenforced with some beams and half inch board of starboard.
The decorative caprail which is reenforced with epoxy and rebolted to the fiberglass. The stern stern rail but that is pretty solid,of course the traditional looking steering wheel and last but not least the plantform at the bow over my sprit, but again it is supported now from underneath with a flat stainless steel grid. It did and will support me while working therein different sea conditions.
My deck, cabin top are all fiberglass and masts and booms are aluminum alloy.

I usually when im sailing solo have my jackline setup on deck level running all the way to the bow. I use the shock absorber lanyard
the reason I was asking for a cockpit reefing system because its a convenience. Usually I reef early, so its pretty easy from the deck. But so many times I wasnt that smart, maybe too stubborn to reduce sail, and later I pay for it by reefing in higher winds( fun to fight that big sail in a decent motion) so its a comvenience to be able to do it from cockpit especially after making a bad decision.
I dont have any problems reefing my mizzen cz its right next to me in the cockpit. Im pretty happy with it. My current setup is 1 reef pt in mizzen and 2 in main. Soon I will be adding 1 pt to each.

[Richard Z]

Originally Posted by Catamount

Yes, you need either a "single-line" reefing system, or a two-line reefing system. I'll start with the second first.

Just as you would with normal slab or jiffy reefing, you run a reefing line from the boom up through the reef clew cringle and back down to a sheave in or on the boom. From there the line goes forward. In a typical jiffy reef system, it might go to a winch on the boom and then a cleat, so you have to go forward to pull in that reef line and to hook the reef tack cringle on the reef horn at the gooseneck. Instead, run the the line over another sheave at the forward end of the boom, down to the deck, and then back to the cockpit, so that you can pull it in from there. For the tack, just run a separate line from the reef tack cringle down to the deck and back to the cockpit. Now you do need to be careful of the lead and make sure that you have a pull forward on the tack cringle as well as down.

For a single line system, when the clew reefing line gets to the forward end of the boom, run it up through the reef tack cringle and then back down to the deck. You still have to worry about the lead and the pull forward.

Some so-called "single-line" systems have a complicated set of blocks housed inside the boom that are supposed to balance the load between the tack and clew and bring them in simultaneously, but I think that's just making things much more complicated than they need to be.

An earlier iteration of my single-line system is described with photos on my website, at this link (I've made a few changes, but haven't updated the photos or description).

It should be noted that the single-line system on my boat works well because (1) I have a relatively small, high-aspect mainsail, (2) I have a low-friction Strong Track mainsail luff track and slide system which facilitates the sail going up and down the mast easily (and on almost any point of sail), and (3) I have taken care to look after the leads of the lines and the placement of blocks and such.

I have the halyard pre-marked for the reef positions. To use, we ease the sheet and the vang, let the halyard out to the mark, and then winch in the reef line. Vang on and sheet in. Done. To shake out the reef, release the reef line and crank in the halyard until the sail is up. Set the vang as necessary and sheet in. Done.

Still, it is not perfect.

Thank you
I guess I will try the two line. It sounds straightforward
again thankyou.

[zeehag]

richard---the stern stern rail is not solid--is what i broke in a 60 kt breeze while preventing the mizzen. is scarfed wood and glued and screwed together-- will hold only some suff . best to use a boom gallows per some of the leaky teaky yacht club folks-- the pix of them are good there.

[Richard Z]

Originally Posted by zeehag

richard---the stern stern rail is not solid--is what i broke in a 60 kt breeze while preventing the mizzen. is scarfed wood and glued and screwed together-- will hold only some suff . best to use a boom gallows per some of the leaky teaky yacht club folks-- the pix of them are good there.

Ill check the leaky teaky group.

When I said solid about the syern rail I meant that it is in a good shape cz I have took it apart secured the lower section to the f/g with through nolts and epoxy comound. And then did the same to the little colums and the top section.
now as far as preventing the mizzen boom, I usually put my bridle on the boom then lead ut forward and secure it to a block on my port or stbd headsail cars on the toerail. That area is is pretty solid cz it is reenforced as mentioned in my previous post.

I dont have a lot of use of my stern rail except to support me when Im servicingthe mizzen sail( I usually stand on it), otherwise it keeps people aboard when I have company. I also use it to secure my fuel cans and stormcases in the cockpit.

[zeehag]

i tie a line to bail, thru hawse, back to bail and knot within reach-- that wont break-- and is easy to get to. my jib track is on the caprail on my boat.. and main is under the boom forward of the companionway hatch slider. i havent worried about the main as preventers go-- because in big winds i dont use the main at all. releasing from the hawse is relatively simple-- and quick.i dont use anything formal--i just use a quick line and fasten it so it doesnt flog.

[barnakiel]

Originally Posted by David_Old_Jersey

$10 on Syria - it's the President planning ahead

DOJ, you rock!

;-))))))
barnie

[zeehag]

but the presidunce wouldnt use a formosa........ unless he was going waaayyyyyyy incognito.......