Originally Posted by Adelie
I would go with the main and genoa
, more total area. Once you get a sense of how fast you are going try hoisting the staysail, but I don't think it'll add anything and may hurt. I would be happy if it helps. Let us know.
As far as bubbling the front of the main when the main and genoa
are sheeted in hard, it's not a problem. When I used to race
with one of the local rock stars we did that regularly going upwind, gave the best velocity made good so we did it.
The trick is not oversheeting the main. We used telltales on the leech of the main. Before hoisting the main tape some yarns to the trailing edge. When sailing sheet genoa in hard, not on the spreaders, but out a touch. Then point up until the genoa telltales near the luff stream properly. Then sheet the main in until the telltales on the leech stream properly. For leach telltales you want the telltales to stream back pointing aft. Play around with this and see how it works for you. If some stream and others stall then you may need to play with the twist of the sail by adjusting boom vang
, topping lift
Great calls, good advice
Assume light to moderate wind
on the nose:
GO close hauled with the greatest area you can raise. The genoa will always push the luff of the main to windward but the luff is in the shadow of the mast anyway so you don't care. If you don't have a soft luff you are over sheeting the main. It is more important to fly the main off and keep the leech tells flying. As an old racer
, my advice
is to make sure the genoa clew is situated fore / aft so that the top, middle and lower tells fly. Do not be afraid to let the inside tells run a bit soft, just short of lifting. You might think you are pinching but you need to find the fine line between power & pinch. As with the mast, the forestay will lay a wind
shadow in the first couple of feet of the luff. Once the jib
is proper, tweak the main so the leach and aft 1/3 of the main approximates a nearly parallel surface to the aft most surface of the genoa. The main's leach must not be hooked to windward. Assuming your main is not blown out, you can achieve this by adjusting the mast rake, the cunningham, sheet and the outhaul
Get in the groove and record
your speeds and combinations, sea state, drift and jib
car position. You will want to know this some time in the future when you can't figure out who tied the bucket to your keel
If you are game
, set the cutter
staysail. If the sail is quite flat, you may be successful. As with the jib & main, try to make the staysail surface about parallel to the adjacent genoa. If you are truely close hauled, the boat
will probably slow down. The exception to this can occur if your sails
are in good condition and the slot between the mast and forestay is great enough to permit
the staysail to work
. If this combination slows you, then crack off 3 to 5 degrees and reset. There will be a point where the staysail adds noticably to speed.
On another point, if you are running, set the genoa and yankee wing & wing and pole one clew out. Many long distance cruisers will use this set up with the main furled or scavenged. The boat
will be stable and fast and you will not need to work
to fly sails
or steer. Some folks even add a second pole.