 |
|
17-08-2018, 14:30
|
#1
|
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Ardfern, Scotland
Boat: Sister-ship of Bernard Moitessier's Joshua
Posts: 369
|
Rigging an asymmetrical spinnaker
Our 40' ketch came with an asymmetrical spinnaker or cruising 'chute. (See my avatar for image.) I've never had one before, so am trying to figure out how to rig it.
The 'chute has a sock and I noticed that the previous owner had just one very long sheet rigged. This baffled me, so I've been reading and talking to people to figure out how this sail should be flown.
I found this here:
"Two sheets are attached to the clew of the sail. They should be led near the aft corner of the boat on each side. The “lazy” or windward sheet should be led all the way around the bow and aft to the other side. Each sheet needs to be about twice the length of the boat plus 10 feet.
...
To gybe – bear off to a broad reach, easing the sheet as you go to keep the sail flying. Turn the boat down to a run and when the spinnaker luffs, let the sheet all the way off. Gybe the boom and trim in the spinnaker on the other side. Head up to a reach to fill the sail, ease and trim the new sheet as needed."
I think I know what this means, but just to verify, I have a couple of questions:
1. "The “lazy” or windward sheet should be led all the way around the bow and aft to the other side."
Does this mean that the sheet should be lead in front of the sail? Rather than behind it, as usual with a jib, for example?
2. "Turn the boat down to a run and when the spinnaker luffs, let the sheet all the way off."
Does this mean that the sail will be blowing straight out in front of the boat? With the two sheets on either side of the boat?
If I am correct on both points, isn't there a potential for the boat to run over one or both sheets if the wind is really light? It seems really dicey to have all that line blowing out in front of the boat, particularly in light winds.
I guess that the sheets themselves also need to be lightweight. Anyone have a suggestion as to diameter, type, etc.?
TIA
__________________
Author of An Unlikely Voyage -- 2000 Miles on a Small Wooden Boat
|
|
|
17-08-2018, 14:44
|
#2
|
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Kansas
Boat: FP Salina 48, Hobie 33
Posts: 408
|
Re: Rigging an asymmetrical spinnaker
I recently got an A sail for my cat, so I'm certainly not an expert, but I've learned a little.
If you only have one sheet, it's because you don't intend to gybe while flying the spin. Nothing wrong with that. You can just douse the sail, move the sheet, and re-launch. It's pretty easy with a sock.
If you do want to gybe the spin, you have to make the decision whether you want an inside or an outside gybe. If going inside, you're going to pass the spin leach between the luff and the forestay. If going outside, the leach goes around in front of the luff. You'll probably just need to experiment to see what works best for you.
One thing I've found invaluable is a Tylaska trigger shackle. I put a long-ish piece of dyneema on the clew with an eye in the end. It needs to be long enough that I can reach it when I sheet in the spin. It also makes it easier to launch because the tail sticks out of the sock and I can easily attach the sheet without pulling the spin half way out of the sock. When I'm ready to douse there's absolutely no drama. I simply sheet in until I can reach the Tylaska shackle, and release it. No whipping lines, and no load on the spin. Then I simply pull down the sock. It's crazy how easy it is. Thank you Catamaran Impi for the tip!!
|
|
|
17-08-2018, 14:53
|
#3
|
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Kansas
Boat: FP Salina 48, Hobie 33
Posts: 408
|
Re: Rigging an asymmetrical spinnaker
Here, Impi drops the spin by releasing the tack. I have Tylaska shackles on the tack and clew. If I'm going deep, release the clew. If reaching, release the tack. One person drop, with no drama.
https://youtu.be/4XQoq9gOURw?t=2m27s
|
|
|
17-08-2018, 15:01
|
#4
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Seattle
Boat: Cal 40 (sold). Still have a Hobie 20
Posts: 2,975
|
Re: Rigging an asymmetrical spinnaker
Agree with above, but to add to it, if you're going to do an outside jibe you might want to add some sort of stick extending out past the prod. The lazy sheet in front of the spin luff can slide down the luff and under the prod then under the bow.
|
|
|
17-08-2018, 15:32
|
#5
|
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Kansas
Boat: FP Salina 48, Hobie 33
Posts: 408
|
Re: Rigging an asymmetrical spinnaker
Quote:
Originally Posted by cal40john
Agree with above, but to add to it, if you're going to do an outside jibe you might want to add some sort of stick extending out past the prod. The lazy sheet in front of the spin luff can slide down the luff and under the prod then under the bow.
|
Maybe that's why the previous owner only ran one sheet. It was probably more trouble than it was worth.
|
|
|
17-08-2018, 15:55
|
#6
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Brisbane, Qld, Australia
Boat: Fastback 43 catamaran
Posts: 235
|
Re: Rigging an asymmetrical spinnaker
Quote:
Originally Posted by jalmberg
Our 40' ketch came with an asymmetrical spinnaker or cruising 'chute. (See my avatar for image.) I've never had one before, so am trying to figure out how to rig it.
The 'chute has a sock and I noticed that the previous owner had just one very long sheet rigged. This baffled me, so I've been reading and talking to people to figure out how this sail should be flown.
I found this here:
"Two sheets are attached to the clew of the sail. They should be led near the aft corner of the boat on each side. The “lazy” or windward sheet should be led all the way around the bow and aft to the other side. Each sheet needs to be about twice the length of the boat plus 10 feet.
...
To gybe – bear off to a broad reach, easing the sheet as you go to keep the sail flying. Turn the boat down to a run and when the spinnaker luffs, let the sheet all the way off. Gybe the boom and trim in the spinnaker on the other side. Head up to a reach to fill the sail, ease and trim the new sheet as needed."
I think I know what this means, but just to verify, I have a couple of questions:
1. "The “lazy” or windward sheet should be led all the way around the bow and aft to the other side."
Does this mean that the sheet should be lead in front of the sail? Rather than behind it, as usual with a jib, for example?
2. "Turn the boat down to a run and when the spinnaker luffs, let the sheet all the way off."
Does this mean that the sail will be blowing straight out in front of the boat? With the two sheets on either side of the boat?
If I am correct on both points, isn't there a potential for the boat to run over one or both sheets if the wind is really light? It seems really dicey to have all that line blowing out in front of the boat, particularly in light winds.
I guess that the sheets themselves also need to be lightweight. Anyone have a suggestion as to diameter, type, etc.?
TIA
|
1. Yes lead the lazy sheet in front of the sail.
2. Its easier than it sounds.
When cruising if main is up centre the main sail traveller and sheet it on hard. This slows the boat ( increases apparent wind and floats kite out better.) then head down wind ease the kite sheet so kite floats out front of yacht while taking up on lazy sheet(now name changes to kite sheet). The way the kite floats around the bow is controlled by the helm with assistance from the sheets. Unless you're racing or very experienced i would suggest dropping the kite before true wind gets to 15 knots.
The sheets are normally kept under light tension to controll the gybe.
One way you can run over the kite is if you go faster than the wind, this is not as hard as it sounds. Or if you dip the kite in the water.
In very light winds use thin sheets(and if on a long run untie the lazy sheet). I normally use 8mm spectra and under 5knots i use vb chord. I always tie my sheets on to save weight at clew.
Have fun and practice in light winds. I wouldn't gybe the kite on inside like a jib as its too easy to damage kite like that.
|
|
|
17-08-2018, 16:02
|
#7
|
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Australia
Boat: Island Packet 40
Posts: 6,501
|
Re: Rigging an asymmetrical spinnaker
I use a single sheet and pass it around the front of the genaker to the other side to jibe. Trying to pull the tack between the genaker and the rolled genoa to jibe tends to end up a bit disastrous. Also I use a double line with one end tide to the prod, up through the ring on the clew, back through the ring on the prod and bought back to a cleat so that I can release it under load.
|
|
|
17-08-2018, 16:05
|
#8
|
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Port Charlotte, FL
Boat: Freedom 38
Posts: 131
|
Re: Rigging an asymmetrical spinnaker
OP mentioned that sheet was very long. Wondering if the PO hitched the sheet to the clew of the sail midway on the line - with half to port and half to starboard.
|
|
|
17-08-2018, 16:44
|
#9
|
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Ardfern, Scotland
Boat: Sister-ship of Bernard Moitessier's Joshua
Posts: 369
|
Re: Rigging an asymmetrical spinnaker
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sailmon
OP mentioned that sheet was very long. Wondering if the PO hitched the sheet to the clew of the sail midway on the line - with half to port and half to starboard.
|
No it was tied on at one end.
What is a ‘prod’? That’s a new term for me.
|
|
|
17-08-2018, 16:49
|
#10
|
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Ardfern, Scotland
Boat: Sister-ship of Bernard Moitessier's Joshua
Posts: 369
|
Re: Rigging an asymmetrical spinnaker
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sardean
1. Yes lead the lazy sheet in front of the sail.
2. Its easier than it sounds.
When cruising if main is up centre the main sail traveller and sheet it on hard. This slows the boat ( increases apparent wind and floats kite out better.) then head down wind ease the kite sheet so kite floats out front of yacht while taking up on lazy sheet(now name changes to kite sheet). The way the kite floats around the bow is controlled by the helm with assistance from the sheets. Unless you're racing or very experienced i would suggest dropping the kite before true wind gets to 15 knots.
The sheets are normally kept under light tension to controll the gybe.
One way you can run over the kite is if you go faster than the wind, this is not as hard as it sounds. Or if you dip the kite in the water.
In very light winds use thin sheets(and if on a long run untie the lazy sheet). I normally use 8mm spectra and under 5knots i use vb chord. I always tie my sheets on to save weight at clew.
Have fun and practice in light winds. I wouldn't gybe the kite on inside like a jib as its too easy to damage kite like that.
|
Excellent. Can’t wait to give it a try. Thanks.
|
|
|
18-08-2018, 06:20
|
#11
|
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Port Charlotte, FL
Boat: Freedom 38
Posts: 131
|
Re: Rigging an asymmetrical spinnaker
PO is previous owner. Still seems strange to me that he would only use one sheet. Sails & snuffers are not not inexpensive. Can’t understand scrimping on the line. Wondering if there were originally 2 sheets & one got repurposed. Did the boat come with turning blocks for both port & starboard. At any rate, if you plan to use the chute with any regularity, it would probably be a good idea to invest in a second sheet.
|
|
|
18-08-2018, 06:33
|
#12
|
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Ardfern, Scotland
Boat: Sister-ship of Bernard Moitessier's Joshua
Posts: 369
|
Re: Rigging an asymmetrical spinnaker
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sailmon
PO is previous owner. Still seems strange to me that he would only use one sheet. Sails & snuffers are not not inexpensive. Can’t understand scrimping on the line. Wondering if there were originally 2 sheets & one got repurposed. Did the boat come with turning blocks for both port & starboard. At any rate, if you plan to use the chute with any regularity, it would probably be a good idea to invest in a second sheet.
|
It stumped me too. We were just playing around with it on the Chesapeake a couple of weeks ago and I didn't have the nerve to put it up with just one sheet, so I untied it and tied it back on in the center so I had two sheets.
I didn't know any better, so I rigged it behind the roller furler, but then the normal jib sheets were in the way... it was a real mess and I realized there was more to it than just hoisting it up the mast and pulling up the sock!
There were no turning blocks rigged, but I have a whole box of extra blocks, in various conditions.
I also have twin spinnaker poles -- one for each side of the boat for flying twin head sails. Besides the jib on the furler, I have a hank-on version that goes on the extra headstay. The original owner crossed the Atlantic nine times using twin head sails poled out to either side, running down the Trades.
I also have a huge mizzen staysail, much bigger than the yellow one shown on my avatar. I haven't had the nerve to put that up yet! One of these days I would love to put up all those sails and see how she moves in light air.
__________________
Author of An Unlikely Voyage -- 2000 Miles on a Small Wooden Boat
|
|
|
18-08-2018, 06:33
|
#13
|
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Tampa Bay area, USA
Boat: Beneteau First 42
Posts: 3,961
|
Re: Rigging an asymmetrical spinnaker
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sailmon
PO is previous owner. Still seems strange to me that he would only use one sheet. Sails & snuffers are not not inexpensive. Can’t understand scrimping on the line. Wondering if there were originally 2 sheets & one got repurposed. Did the boat come with turning blocks for both port & starboard. At any rate, if you plan to use the chute with any regularity, it would probably be a good idea to invest in a second sheet.
|
If the sheet is unusually long, it may be that both ends are connected to the clue, passing through the turning blocks across the cockpit ahead of the binnacle. We use that arrangement, a single continuous sheet to good advantage, especially eliminating to a large extent an unruly lazy sheet. The sheet is led forward of the headsail but aft of the tack line (in our case) as we have found inside gibes preferable.
FWIW...
__________________
"It is not so much for its beauty that the Sea makes a claim upon men's hearts, as for that subtle something, that quality of air, that emanation from the waves, that so wonderfully renews a weary spirit."
|
|
|
18-08-2018, 06:35
|
#14
|
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Toronto area when not travelling
Boat: Nonsuch 30
Posts: 1,732
|
Re: Rigging an asymmetrical spinnaker
We started with two sheets and realized after a couple of years of full-time cruising that we basically never gybed the A-symm so we took off the second sheet. It was just something else to get in the way and it added weight to the sail in light air.
Did you get a strap that goes around the furled genoa from the tack. These are useful. Any sailmaker can make one easily.
__________________
Have taken on the restoration of the first Nonsuch, which was launched in 1978. Needs some deck work, hull compounding, and a bit of new gear.
|
|
|
18-08-2018, 06:39
|
#15
|
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Ardfern, Scotland
Boat: Sister-ship of Bernard Moitessier's Joshua
Posts: 369
|
Re: Rigging an asymmetrical spinnaker
Quote:
Originally Posted by AiniA
We started with two sheets and realized after a couple of years of full-time cruising that we basically never gybed the A-symm so we took off the second sheet. It was just something else to get in the way and it added weight to the sail in light air.
Did you get a strap that goes around the furled genoa from the tack. These are useful. Any sailmaker can make one easily.
|
That is probably what happened in this case. The POs crossed the Atlantic on the Milk Run, so they probably always used it on the same tack. I'm guessing they never even used it in the Caribbean. We certainly didn't. The four working sails were more than enough.
__________________
Author of An Unlikely Voyage -- 2000 Miles on a Small Wooden Boat
|
|
|
 |
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Rate This Thread |
Linear Mode
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
Advertise Here
Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Vendor Spotlight |
|
|