Dropping vs lowering anchor

[JPA Cate]

We also use power down. Particularly after rough voyages, when the chain may have got stirred up in the anchor locker, powering down seems to let the windlass clear the kinks, rather than jamming.

Ann

[Simi 60]

Power down for us.
I have the clutch pre set to slip if any real load is put on it so as to not damage the windlass when retrieving and letting it free fall would lose that setting.

[JebLostInSpace]

I like to let it freefall unless in pretty deep water. I'm singlehanding, so this minimizes how long I'm away from the helm and drifting.

[Gary Mc]

I like the free fall method!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLLBhIJbVFs

[OneKoolCat]

I drop down using the windlass control. I have a chain counter on mine so that makes things easy letting out the scope i want. I am usually doing most things by myself, so I am back at at the helm with the remote control of the windlass.

Unless... the chain jumps the gypsy which happened once this year.

I pulled up a little of it backed down on the anchor and then let some out again it was fine.

[sailorboy1]

Originally Posted by Woodland Hills

I am curious how many drop their anchors by freefalling using the brake or lower them using the motor? I realize this mostly applies to bigger boats with heavier anchors, but I was curious.

We lower owns.

[Emmalina]

Controlled free fall as I have no reversing relay LOL

[rslifkin]

Originally Posted by Simi 60

Power down for us.
I have the clutch pre set to slip if any real load is put on it so as to not damage the windlass when retrieving and letting it free fall would lose that setting.

Good point on the clutch setting. I set mine similarly, so messing with it frequently is inconvenient.

[Manateeman]

One should have a selection of anchors because no one anchor works for every bottom. A sounding lead will give you an accurate idea of the composition of the bottom because you can actually touch the bottom. You can squeeze it, mix it with a little water and look at the grains. You can charge the lead with soap or tallow .You can feel the density and stickiness of muds. Finger touch on the line while being dragged will reveal a lot about rocks or corals.
Sounding leads give you information no sonar can. Only a mini clam shell bottom sampler like oceanographers use can bring up more bottom. The first explorers and chart makers routinely used lead samples. The bottom composition is marked on charts for good reason.
Good enough for Captain Cook, good enough for me.
Anchor handling vessels in the oil patch will let it all rip out because they are designed for the dangers. I cannot see the extra wear and tear of motoring down but have used it on a few occasions. Mostly I clutch down but it’s far more important to know what’s down below. I need to know what I’m anchoring to so I use the best anchor for that type of bottom.
Please check for manatees before deployment of sounding leads or anchors.
I did write this in a prior thread.
Happy trails to you
Captain Mark and his littoral pizza parlor friends

[s/v Jedi]

You’re supposed to use the clutch. I can see how that can be scary on a horizontal windlass or when your chain locker does not allow flawless feeding but our setup works really well.

In the Bahamas where we are now it is very shallow so we can just drop it but when it’s deeper we use the clutch to control speed.

Yes, put a crater in the seabed for immediate set in grass, hard sand etc. Also, this allows to put the anchor exactly where you want, like that sandy spot in the grass. Next we reverse-idle the engine so chain runs out while using the clutch to take out slack. At 3:1 scope we tighten the clutch until the chain stops running out. After this, all other adjustments are done using electric power instead of the clutch.

[Nicholson58]

121# Rocna, 10 mm chain, 40 ton boat. The windlass is powered up only. Let the clutch run free. The Rocna sails away forward when it drops so the chain does not land on it. This is reliable. Dump the anchor and watch the chain markers fly past. Stop at the proper scope and let the wind drift us back. Watch the neighbors and don’t hit anybody.

[Palarran]

Originally Posted by Nicholson58

121# Rocna, 10 mm chain, 40 ton boat. The windlass is powered up only. Let the clutch run free. The Rocna sails away forward when it drops so the chain does not land on it. This is reliable. Dump the anchor and watch the chain markers fly past. Stop at the proper scope and let the wind drift us back. Watch the neighbors and don’t hit anybody.

I have the same anchor and chain and also freefall the anchor with a little feathering of the clutch. I'd say it's closer to freefall then braked. I also let the wind blow my bow sideways and let the boat drift sideways as I'm releasing chain with the clutch. When we get to the desired amount of chain out, I just throw a short 2' snubber on it and let the momentum of the boat set the anchor. It actually is somewhat gentle as first the bow comes back into the wind then the boat stops. As I'm a cat, we then set the anchor with the short snubber then when sure of it, put the bridle on.

One other use of dropping that IMO is very important is using the clutch when Med mooring instead of powering it out. By using the clutch, I can reverse at what ever speed I want, but with power it's only as fast as the windlass runs.

[LoudMusic]

We always lay ours down with power, and if wind or current isn't moving the boat I'll usually go ahead and bump it into reverse to make sure the chain doesn't pile up on top of the anchor. We've never had a problem, I just suspect there could be a big one so take simple precautions.

[wingssail]

We have always "powered" down. Hitting the right spot is not difficult coasting up into the wind with one person at the helm and another on the bow. If you are single handing I guess you need a remote on the windlass. With a little practice you can stop the boat where you want the anchor to set and hold the boat there long enough to get the anchor itself to the bottom.

As the boat starts to fall off due to the wind continue paying out chain until the desired scope has been reached. Stop the windlass and lock the chain.

When the anchor sets itself and turns your bow back into the wind, back down under engine power to fully set and test the anchor.

I really don't think I'd like to dump the anchor into a pile then pull the chain out of that pile. I'd rather lay it out along the bottom then pull it gently at first, then harder. Judy judges the amount of pressure and how it is holding (as well as what type of bottom we have) with a bare foot on the chain. (carefully I might add) and communicates back to me on the helm with hand signals. After I call the drop she is in charge of everything else. Because of that, I sleep well at night.

[wingssail]

Originally Posted by Chotu

...I don’t worry at all about what the chain looks like on the sea floor. As long as it’s not in a pile directly on the anchor, it straightens itself out when it’s actually needed...

I think it is important to straighten out the chain when setting and testing, not later "when you need it".