Water proof caulking and sealing

[WolfgangSeaLife]

Lots of articles and products. I have deep cavities under the toe rail where the chainplates go through. I need something fairly liquid that I can squeeze inside and that distributes around in there.
What is the right sealant?
Thank you
Wolfgang SeaLife

[Ocean Girl]

Pic would be great. Are you rebedding the chain plates or just digging out some old caulk around the plates?

I'd say life caulk :-)

[UNCIVILIZED]

Are you looking for something which you can inject into a cavity, without removing any hardware, to bed things thusly?

[roverhi]

Liquid LifeCaulk works well where you want the caulk to flow. It is a liquid that eventually sets but needs a 'receptical' to keep it in place till it goes off after quite a bit of time. If you've dug out caulk or have a void that will hold the Liquid in place till it goes off, it would work. Have used it successfully to seal a hidden leak that nothing else would seal. Laid a bead of LLC along the suspected source of the leak and it stopped the leak after a short period.

There is also a liquid caulk called 'Captain Something or Others caulk or similar name. Perhaps someone is familiar with the actual name and could supply it. It's a Brit. product and don't know if it's available in the US. Have heard a few reports of success using the stuff.

If you can get the nose of caulking gun in the cavity, LifeCaulk, 4200/5200 of Sikkens might also work though may not bond well to the surrounding surfaces.

[WolfgangSeaLife]

Thanks all. Yes, trying to squeeze liquid caulk into the cavity next to the chainplates below the toe rail. There is a cover plate around the chain plates that I can screw off and lift up giving me a small space to sqeeze the nose of a caulk gun in.
I recently broke of a piece of the teak toe rail and found these large spaces around the chainplates. And I leak water through one of them. So now I want to fill these places with something that is fairly liquid and sticks to the surrounding fiberglass, old caulk (that I cant' get to), wood, and chainplates. That's in case water is pressured upward or downward along the chainplates.

[UNCIVILIZED]

Would it not be best to pull the hardware in question, inspect everything; especially the wood (for rot), & the chainplates (for crevice corrosion), & then fully re-bed things?

[WolfgangSeaLife]

Yes, but I have kept it pretty well varnished and sealed, no rot.
And taking all toe rail off is a major operation to be done on the hard and by professionals costing a few grand. Don't want to let it get to that.

[Emmalina]

Just reseated some of my chain plates as the sealing method from new was never good. Had some crevice corrosion so replaced the lot. As these things tend to move I resealed with epoxy up to deck level then normal sikaflex (with primer! ) for the teak deck. Did other chain plates this way a few years back with very good results. Hope this helps

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by roverhi

Liquid LifeCaulk works well where you want the caulk to flow...
There is also a liquid caulk called 'Captain Something or Others caulk or similar name. Perhaps someone is familiar with the actual name and could supply it. It's a Brit. product and don't know if it's available in the US ...

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