Those really convenient things you did.

[hpeer]

Mingat wrote/

2. Simple anchor breakout system. When the anchor fouls, I don’t panic. Shear point let’s go and pulling force shifted to the crown of the anchor.

I am more than intrigued. What do you use as the shear pin? I’m imagining a clevis of some type?

Details PLEASE!

[Peregrine1983]

Also.. Alpicool 20 liter thermoelectric freezer/cooler. Gets cold fast. Doesn’t use much juice. Been running it for 4 weeks straight off 300w solar at -4C. So far so good. $219 US. Eliminated my need for an expensive traditional fridge install.

[Fuss]

Originally Posted by Scorpius

4. 6500 lb. pull homemade ($1600) hydraulic anchor winch (prop is hydraulically driven too - long story). Breaks the 33kg. Rocna out of the mud no sweat and will bring it up easily from any depth (I've often anchored in well over 100'. I have 900' of rode available).
!

Would it be possible to tell me what size/sort of pump and motor you use as I would like to make something similar.

[CaptTom]

Originally Posted by Scorpius

3. Bimini built of solar panels (500W). No fabric.

Now THAT I'd like to see!

I'm toying with the idea of doing something similar.

[inspectr]

Lewmar folding wheel makes so much more space in the cockpit
Self tailing winch on the main halyard

[nic26]

Hi Tom,
could you describe the remote control for the windlass, pls?

[Minggat]

Originally Posted by hpeer

Mingat wrote/



I am more than intrigued. What do you use as the shear pin? I’m imagining a clevis of some type?

Details PLEASE!

I actually bought a breakout system, but it was hugely inadequate. The only part that i’m actually using from it is the shear bolt itself. It’s an aluminum bolt that the guy machined down to his tested breaking strength (650 lb if I remember right). I bought several more aluminum bolts to have machined down to the same diameter, but I also bought some single strand heavy gauge copper wire for its lower breaking strength. My design assures that it won’t break before you need it to.

[admiralslater]

Engle fridge built into cockpit locker , cold drinks at hand

[kristjan]

Led both ends of throat and peak haliard to deck, but one of the ends has a luff tackle, which compounds the basic purchase of the haliard. Easy to get right tension in throat and peak with needing extra person to swig or hang off the haliard. Now I bother to trim the peak when underway, so the boat also sails better.

[Barkie]

Force fit a 1200 or 1500 mm length of 60mm polystyrene floatation noodle (often found as a childrens' floatation swimming pool toy) into an equivalent length of thin walled 60mm house downspout. Run a length of cord through the noodle hole and suspend horizontally just below the gunnel rubbing strip on the outside of the hull. Stays in place like fenders dont and in consequence copes with mooring pillars that move relative to boat because of tides and wind direction. Can be flipped inboard when sailing and its there ready.

[valhalla360]

Related to the swiveling salon table, have leafs that fold in. If you are just hanging out, it's much easier to get in and out of the dinnet seats but if you have a big meal you have the realestate to lay it out.

Also, with a U-shaped dinnet, the bottom of the "U" tends to collect clutter. Built a simple wooden rack that sits over that area with slots for a pair of laptops, remote controls and other misc small items so it's easy to keep the table clear for dinner but easy to set up as an office in a few seconds.

[CaptTom]

Originally Posted by nic26

Hi Tom,
could you describe the remote control for the windlass, pls?

You can get them on Amazon or eBay or wherever. Mine is finishing up it's fourth season, working flawlessly. There's already a relay near the windlass, you just need to hook up the wires from the receiver to the existing switch terminals.

Originally Posted by Barkie

Force fit a 1200 or 1500 mm length of 60mm polystyrene floatation noodle (often found as a childrens' floatation swimming pool toy) into an equivalent length of thin walled 60mm house downspout. Run a length of cord through the noodle hole and suspend horizontally just below the gunnel rubbing strip on the outside of the hull. Stays in place like fenders dont and in consequence copes with mooring pillars that move relative to boat because of tides and wind direction. Can be flipped inboard when sailing and its there ready.

This is a pretty good idea, thanks!! Lighter, less bulky and easier to store than fender boards. I'm trying to picture the downspout though. Obviously it can't be aluminum or brittle PVC. Do they make something flexible enough to take the punishment of bashing up against a piling?

[RickG]

1. 800ah 12V Firefly Group 31 batteries

2. 660 watt Solar panels

3. C-Head composting head

4. Rainman watermaker

5. LED mastlight with photocell

Cheers, RickG

[thinwater]

• Up-graded davit tackle (like large dinghy mainsheet system with cam cleats). Even a child can lift a heavy inflatable with motor.
• Solar.
• LED lights.
• Shallow trays in most lockers. No digging.
• Steps on cockpit. Old knees.
• Transom extensions. Much better dinghy boarding.
• Valves for winterizing.
• Propane heat. Really extends the season. Much of the best sailing is in the spring and fall, and I love sleeping without sweating.
• AC. Anchored out is OK, but marinas can be horrible.

[Ndavies]

We recently crossed the Atlantic with 7 people on the boat. My favorite pieces of equipment based on this passage:
- Rainman watermaker - worked flawlessly and was essential
- AIS - although this didn't work flawlessly due to incorrect factory install. it works now and fortunately, there's not much traffic between Cape Verde and Antigua!
- inReach Explorer tracker/communicator. Although we also had Iridium Go, the faithful inReach was used the most for daily texts and to allow friends and family to track us.

Neil