Seasoning Tools

[scarlet]

I wasn't sure where to put this...

I was wondering if anyone has tried "seasoning" your tools to keep them rust free? For those of you who don't know what this is, it's a process that is used to make cast iron pots non-stick and preserve them. It involves coating them with a VERY thin coat of oil, then baking them in a very high temp oven (450-500 degrees) for about an hour. This creates a protective smooth coating on them. The coating is non-greasy. Do you think this would work for tools?

[ranger58sb]

Probably would, might be useful for ferrous iron (not as common as they once were) or otherwise non-stainless tools, although "plastic" handles or grips might add some complexity...

But...

A quick spray with Boeshield or whatever after using is pretty easy to do...

Last time I lost a screwdriver or a wrench to rust was.... hmmmm... never.

-Chris

[Attikos]

Oh, a pepper grinder, a little mortar and pestle, a zester ...

Oh. Wait. That's different.

Never mind.

[a64pilot]

For the tools that rust, I’m protecting them by browning them
That is allowing them to rust and cleaning them up when needed. It really was a process used on older firearms before blueing.
In three years, I don’t have much of a rust issue surprisingly, unsure why

[john61ct]

The objective in seasoning cast iron pots is the creation of a smooth non-stick surface that doesn't require cooking with a lot of fat.

They still need to have a layer of oil when stored to prevent rust.

Which latter also works for any ferrous tool, but heating them won't help.

[scarlet]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

For the tools that rust, I’m protecting them by browning them
That is allowing them to rust and cleaning them up when needed. It really was a process used on older firearms before blueing.
In three years, I don’t have much of a rust issue surprisingly, unsure why

I have no idea why, either. I was cleaning a big iron wrench I have (the kind you use for tightening large plumbing pipes).. and while I was scrubbing it, you could see the new rust forming on it. I finally got it mostly cleaned, dried it quickly... and put some WD40 on it... But, I'm thinking the "seasoning" would fill in the pores and create a semi-permanat barrier... My steal tools rust, too. And I"m not currently living on the water..

[JPA Cate]

Scarlet, don't worry about it. You can dip them or paint them with rust inhibitor, but in reality, the natural color of steel and iron is rust-brown, just as the natural color of bronze is green. Unless there is a very good reason not to, sometimes it's easier to go with the flow and accept nature. Otherwise, you set yourself an uphill battle, with little chance of a permanent win. My Jim says, stainless steel isn't; titanium is. Meaning that even s/s tools will get surface stain, as do stanchions, etc.

Ann

[a64pilot]

Good tools like Proto, Snap On and the like are extremely rust resistant.
For those that are less rust resistant, use Corrosion-X and put them in ziplock bags, wipe down before use.
WD-40 is nearly useless for corrosion prevention, and I’d say nearly useless period.
I don’t know if it’s true, but the name may mean Water Displacing, it may not have been meant as a rust preventative.

[Uncle Bob]

For what it's worth I use Inox mx3, it dries and lasts really well and when it doesn't, another spray restores protection.

[StuM]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

Good tools like Proto, Snap On and the like are extremely rust resistant.
For those that are less rust resistant, use Corrosion-X and put them in ziplock bags, wipe down before use.
WD-40 is nearly useless for corrosion prevention, and I’d say nearly useless period.
I don’t know if it’s true, but the name may mean Water Displacing, it may not have been meant as a rust preventative.

https://www.wd40.com/faqs

WD-40® literally stands for Water Displacement, 40th formula. That's the name straight out of the lab book used by the chemist who developed the product back in 1953. The chemist, Norm Larsen, was attempting to concoct a formula to prevent corrosion—a task which is done by displacing water. Norm's persistence paid off when he perfected the formula on his 40th try. Please see Our History for more information.

[marlin driver]

Use Boeshield on your tools when new and periodically thereafter. Wipe them off after using and before you put them away. Don’t store them where they will get wet or be hit with salt mist. If they get salt water on them when using, rinse them off before putting away. There is no noticeable rust on my tools after years of on board use, and I use them constantly.

I treat my tools the same way on land, so its no extra work for me.

[SV DestinyAscen]

Buy some cosmoline.

[2big2small]

If you have a rust issue with a specific tool, then coat it with whatever you fancy or have available. Even cooking oil does the trick even though it does get rancid and decays over time so you have to recoat if you don’t use the tool frequently . Otherwise just let them brown. My tools have been on board for most of 12 years and I don’t coat them because I want everything to remain super clean to not make accidental oil stains when I use them. They are simply in a plastic box which is enough protection from the marine environment. For some of them I wipe the little bit of rust off before using, but most don’t even need that.

[zboss]

I use zerust inserts. You put them in your tool bags and they emit a vapor (over about a year) that puts a coating on the tools which inhibits rust. Great for items like that backup alternator or starter motor as well.

[FloatPlaneFlyer]

Corrosion-X or BoeShield +1