Replacing the power inlet for the last time?

[Cadence]

Maintaining to plugs sounds like the issue. I doesn't take much corrosion to cause a problem.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Hudson Force

Good to know,- thanks. I assumed this was an option, but I did not know that this was standard.

You can configure a cord anyway you like with Smartplugs. Replace the boat inlet and the boat end of your existing cord, buy a new cord with Smartplugs on boat end only or on both ends.

So far I know of no marinas that have Smartplugs on the dock but if your marina did or you have your own dock and can make the dockside whatever you like you can go Smartplug all the way but keep a pigtail for when you're away from home.

[Panacea2183]

Originally Posted by sailnow2011

I was in west marine yesterday and browsing clearance as I always do.
I noticed the defunct 125 volt 50 amp plugs and inlets for super cheap.
It got me thinking, instead of a 30 amp inlet plug, why not use a 50 amp inlet plug?
I have fried at least 3 inlets because of bad dock power. The 50 amp should have better contacts in the plug.
What do you think?
Change one wire end, and change the inlet.

Be aware 50 amp plugs and cords come two ways
110v and 220v they are not the same and will not interchange!
50 amp 110-125v plugs are old school from the 70's and not at all common
You could use it on the boat side but would still need a 30 amp male end for the dock. Probably not a good idea.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Panacea2183

Be aware 50 amp plugs and cords come two ways
110v and 220v they are not the same and will not interchange!
50 amp 110-125v plugs are old school from the 70's and not at all common
You could use it on the boat side but would still need a 30 amp male end for the dock. Probably not a good idea.

Yes. I have one of those dinosaur 50 amp 125V cords. Haven't seen a marina with a matching plug for years.

I thought about putting a SmartPlug on the boat side and 30 amp 125V standard Hubbell type on the dockside but the cord weighs a ton and a half and is a huge pain to drag around. Since a new 30 amp cord isn't that much I tossed the 50 amp in the shed.

Anyone interested in a deal on a 50 amp 125V cord?

[Panacea2183]

Originally Posted by skipmac

Yes. I have one of those dinosaur 50 amp 125V cords. Haven't seen a marina with a matching plug for years.

I thought about putting a SmartPlug on the boat side and 30 amp 125V standard Hubbell type on the dockside but the cord weighs a ton and a half and is a huge pain to drag around. Since a new 30 amp cord isn't that much I tossed the 50 amp in the shed.

Anyone interested in a deal on a 50 amp 125V cord?

Ditto on the weight of the 50 amp cords.
Spend most of our time on the hook but lugging that thing out is a pain
Thinking of going to two 30 amp cords with splitters, but the less connections the better (have never had a boat side plug burn up but several adapters in the past)
Any thoughts from any one on the two 30 amp cord route? Getting to the point in my life where the heaviest thing I want to lift is a beer!

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Panacea2183

Ditto on the weight of the 50 amp cords.
Spend most of our time on the hook but lugging that thing out is a pain
Thinking of going to two 30 amp cords with splitters, but the less connections the better (have never had a boat side plug burn up but several adapters in the past)
Any thoughts from any one on the two 30 amp cord route? Getting to the point in my life where the heaviest thing I want to lift is a beer!

Are you asking about using a splitter at the dock pedestal from a 50 amp 220V outlet to two 30 amp 110V cords to the boat, then either to two 30 amp 110V boat connections or recombining the two 30 amp 120V back to a 50 amp 220V on the boat?

Any of those combinations will work but you will be adding a lot of extra connections and potential failure points.

[ramblinrod]

Originally Posted by sailnow2011

I was in west marine yesterday and browsing clearance as I always do.
I noticed the defunct 125 volt 50 amp plugs and inlets for super cheap.
It got me thinking, instead of a 30 amp inlet plug, why not use a 50 amp inlet plug?
I have fried at least 3 inlets because of bad dock power. The 50 amp should have better contacts in the plug.
What do you think?
Change one wire end, and change the inlet.

NO!!!!!!

If you replace the connector on the boat, someone may assume you have a 50A shore power system (and even you may be tempted to connect it to one some day).

Enabling the supply of higher current than the vessel wiring and equipment is designed to take may cause a fire.

The most common cause of shore power inlet burning is a worn out shore power cord connector. They don't last forever. Monitor the connection every time it is connected. As soon as it starts to feel less tight, replace it. With normal use, disconnecting race nights and weekends, a cord may only last 2 or 3 years. Stored in a locker for rare use, it may last indefinitely. A good rule of thumb (in Southern Ontario climate) is that as soon as it fades in colour (yellow ones) significantly, it is time to replace.

The second most common cause is a worn out vessel shore power inlet. They don't last for ever either, especially if one has repeatedly jammed a warn out or bent shore power cord connector into it.

The third most common cause of shore power inlet burning is faulty wiring, and specifically DIY AC wiring that permits greater than rated current from being drawn through the connection.

I replace vessel shore power inlets all the time, usually as the result of a reported insurance or pre-purchase survey deficiency. What may appear as slight discolouration on the outside, may be result of serious arcing and burning inside.

Never, ever, ever, defeat the current limiting breakers that are (or should be) on your vessel.

Never, ever, ever, install a second 30A shore power inlet, unless properly wired to provide isolation and current limiting protection from the existing shore power connection.

Personally, I wish the regulatory bodies would ban the manufacture and distribution of shore power connector ends for DIY replacement or cheater pigtail fabrication use. About 90% of the ones I see are done incorrectly or poorly, and could cause a marina fire costing $?M for the sake of saving maybe C$80.

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by skipmac

Are you asking about using a splitter at the dock pedestal from a 50 amp 220V outlet to two 30 amp 110V cords to the boat, then either to two 30 amp 110V boat connections or recombining the two 30 amp 120V back to a 50 amp 220V on the boat?

Any of those combinations will work but you will be adding a lot of extra connections and potential failure points.

Sounds like a SNAFU.

[Panacea2183]

Originally Posted by skipmac

Are you asking about using a splitter at the dock pedestal from a 50 amp 220V outlet to two 30 amp 110V cords to the boat, then either to two 30 amp 110V boat connections or recombining the two 30 amp 120V back to a 50 amp 220V on the boat?

Any of those combinations will work but you will be adding a lot of extra connections and potential failure points.

Yes splitters on both ends
I have a 50 amp 220v cord. Just too damn heavy to lug around.
And that's the problem, too many connections when using two 30 amp cords.
Just looking for others experience on same, and advice.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Panacea2183

Yes splitters on both ends
I have a 50 amp 220v cord. Just too damn heavy to lug around.
And that's the problem, too many connections when using two 30 amp cords.
Just looking for others experience on same, and advice.

Are you using 220V on the boat? Have high power draw equipment so you need both legs of a 220V supply? Unless you have one or more of the following: air conditioning, electric hot water, electric cooking of any kind. You could run most boat systems with just 30 amp unless you have big air conditioners or need to run more than one high powered item at a time. Like electric hot water and a battery charger for example.

If you don't fall into one of the above categories then you could probably get by with just a 30 amp supply. However, if your boat inlet is 50 amp 220V then you will almost certainly have the 220V split into two 120V sections on your panel. Depending on how you adapt a 30 amp supply you might only get power to half the systems.

[rwidman]

Originally Posted by OS2Dude

I replaced my standard plug with a Smart Plug. I prefer the way it is made and the fact that it can only be inserted one way, with a double lock mechanism. West used to sell them, then stopped. .

And there is the problem. The Smart Plug is arguably better than the standard twist lock plug but it is non-standard. You won't be able to just ride over to West Marine and pick up a replacement for a lost or damaged cord. You will have to order it and wait for it to be delivered.

[Badsanta]

I've seen a few that were damaged when they were pluged in or unpluged with current flowing. I was always thought to turn off boat and dock breakers first then connect cord then turn on breakers. Turn off, connect, turn off then disconnect. Keeps it from arcing.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by ramblinrod

NO!!!!!!

If you replace the connector on the boat, someone may assume you have a 50A shore power system (and even you may be tempted to connect it to one some day).

Enabling the supply of higher current than the vessel wiring and equipment is designed to take may cause a fire.

Well boat electrical doesn't really work that way. The odds are approaching zero of this being a problem and then only if there is some underlying problem with the system that could be a problem regardless of the supply.

First, I haven't seen a 50 amp 120V outlet for 20 years so doubtful anyone could find that kind of plug to use.

Second, every electrical panel I have seen has the AC input fused or wired to a circuit breaker which is rated for the capacity of the panel and the wiring in the boat, regardless of the capacity of the supply. So even if someone managed to find a 50 amp outlet the panel breaker would still pop if too much current is pulled by the boat.

Originally Posted by ramblinrod

The most common cause of shore power inlet burning is a worn out shore power cord connector. They don't last forever. Monitor the connection every time it is connected.

The second most common cause is a worn out vessel shore power inlet. They don't last for ever either, especially if one has repeatedly jammed a warn out or bent shore power cord connector into it.

This is correct.

Originally Posted by ramblinrod

Personally, I wish the regulatory bodies would ban the manufacture and distribution of shore power connector ends for DIY replacement or cheater pigtail fabrication use. About 90% of the ones I see are done incorrectly or poorly, and could cause a marina fire costing $?M for the sake of saving maybe C$80.

90%??? You must see a different group of boaters where you live. Yes I have seen plenty of DIY wiring screwups but ban marine plugs from sale to boaters. Go down that road and you will have to ban 90% of what goes on in the boating world; not just sales of plugs would have to be banned but all wire, crimp connections and tools, batteries would have to be installed by licensed technicians. What about paints and solvents that are flammable? Gasoline is explosive so maybe gas engines should be banned.

[rwidman]

Originally Posted by Badsanta

I've seen a few that were damaged when they were pluged in or unpluged with current flowing. I was always thought to turn off boat and dock breakers first then connect cord then turn on breakers. Turn off, connect, turn off then disconnect. Keeps it from arcing.

Of course and that may be part of the OP's problem. You really only have to turn off the dock breaker before connecting or disconnecting the shorepower cable. If you can't get to the dock breaker, turn off the boat's main breaker.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Badsanta

I've seen a few that were damaged when they were pluged in or unpluged with current flowing. I was always thought to turn off boat and dock breakers first then connect cord then turn on breakers. Turn off, connect, turn off then disconnect. Keeps it from arcing.

Yes always a good idea to make sure everything is off when messing with cords. Also good to unplug the hot end of the dock first in case the end of the cord falls in the water.