Foam Bed in a Box?

[a64pilot]

We put a Froli under the almost 30yr old foam mattress. That worked well, no condensation issues at all but still not quite there.
Then we went to Walmart and bought a memory foam topper and put it on top of the old foam mattress. That was the ticket, it was very comfortable.
Now we have a very expensive custom built inner spring mattress, big $$. But in all honesty it’s not a bit more comfortable than our old worn out mattress on top of a Froli and with a memory foam topper was. In truth the memory foam topper added a very soft, nice layer and the old mattress and Froli were firm.
The Froli adds flex, and more importantly air circulates under the mattress, so no condensation at all.

[jpendoley]

This forum is fantastic, I learn sumpin every day from the shared knowledge. So 8-10", not 12" is easier to work with. IKEA slats, maybe order foam components to save money-maybe order a bed in a box and cut with a knife.
I have heard an electric knife works well if you lubricate the. Made with a dry lubricant, otherwise it will heat up and bind.
Thank you again-field of dreams under construction this winter!
Jim

[danielamartindm]

I can't address cutting a latex mattress to fit a V berth, never having done it; but I can tell you that latex mattresses are the way to go, the alternative that most orthopedists recommend for those with back issues. A paradox I've found, though, is that thinner latex mattresses tend to be firmer than thicker ones. Go to a store that sells them to try a few different thicknesses to see for yourself. (Thinner ones are cheaper).

[SailRedemption]

We just purchased a latex mattress from online, 4 or 6" (my wife ordered it). A few things I noted. It's very gelatinous, if that's a good word, when handling because it's kinda of rubbery in character. It doesn't just fold up like memory foam. When laying on it it's soft but firm but it has a definite springy action to it. As in, if you are laying there and hold your arm up and drop it it will bounce a couple times on the mattress before coming to a stop. This is very unlike foam where it kind of just absorbs you. Lastly, it is in my opinion much harder to cut that foam or memory foam. We used a electric knife to cut it like we did with or other foam mattresses and the latex just grabs the foam. We tried Silicone spray lubricant and it didn't really help. I didn't try something like Mclube because we didn't have it with us. May have helped. We basically just sawed and pushed with the electric knife while spreading the cut parts apart as best we could.

It just got back from canvas shop where we had it covered with Sunbrella with mesh bottom. We need to get some more of the Hypervent before we sleep on it. So no experience actually sleeping on it.

This will be one of our aft state room's mattress. So we ordered an extra long full.

[1affiah]

We are doing the same sort of shopping for our home. A recent article in "The Week" mentioned 5 brands as "The Best of...", each with slightly different characteristics: Casper, Leesa, Tuft & Needle, Helix, & Zinnia. My niece raves about her Tuft & Needle. Don't know about cutting them, though.
Good Luck!

[Tetepare]

Our 23 year old original V bert cushions were "squished" in the middle, because we sleep together in the middle, also somewhat by default now since they are squished in the middle, we tend to lean toward the middle.

We put a 2" foam only in the middle section on top of the original cushions. Then a memory foam on top of that. There is still a bit of lean toward the middle, but much improved; we could always add another inch of foam just in the middle.

The memory foam has been great.

[UNCIVILIZED]

An often helpful cutting tip is that foams tend to cut more neatly & cleanly when they're frozen. Which you might achieve via a CO2 fire extinguisher, dry ice (perhaps?), or even repeated blasts from a scuba tank. Also, a good sharp filet knife sometimes works quite well, given it's lengthy, thin, very sharp blade.

[Dave22q]

I've found 4" egg crate memory foam is easy to cut with razor cutter and glue with spray adhesive to create a one piece v-berth overlay. I use a mattress pad topper as well. No issues with hot bed. My first try lasted 5 years before I replaced.
Initially I looked at v-berth mattress replacements but the prices were absurd.

[Suijin]

Originally Posted by UNCIVILIZED

For condensation, some folks use the Froli system, others will drill a gridded pattern of holes in the bunktop using a hole saw. And then possibly add small computer fans to the bunk fronts, to extract the moist air that's pushed through the mattress.

Two other options are Dri-deck...which can be expensive, or alternatively, a collection of those fake grass doormats (or similar, sold in rolls), which allow air to circulate underneath.

[1affiah]

Another option for a material like Dri Deck underneath matress, try using the
plastic 2 x 6? or 8 lattice fence panels from HD or Lowes cut to fit.

[sailorcherry]

If you really want a spring mattress heres my exprrience. Did it a few years ago and it was a great bed (with foam topper on top, which is easy to cut to fit). Cut up the springs, then cut wood to fit side cut open and stapled the fabric to it which was wrapped tightly. Was great! The problem is the the springs rust and the bed also gets moldy. So it was heaven for a year and took another 6 months to figure out why I was getting sick and smelling mold despite the great big dehumidifier onboard.

This is all for an aft cabin that at the head is king size and tapers to a double. The new arrangement is a coil futon mattress (Target and boy have thy improved a lot over the years) which was shipped all rolled up (nonissue getting it down the companionway) and then cut foam to fill the larger areas and a queen topper on top. I'm guessing this could work for you, do a Pullman style double futon matress, foam the rest, queen topper (cut to fit too). Much, much prefer this to foam, personally.

Originally Posted by jpendoley

My vberth foam cushions are old and uncomfortable. Since I live aboard 8 months at a stretch, I need a better solution. Foam mattresses are all the rage now, WayFair is advertising a queen size (the Nora) that consists of 7 layers of different foam types that total 12" thick over all. I assume they are laminated so why not template and cut with an electric knife?

I had considered ordering a custom built innerspring, but these foam mattresses seem to getting quick adoption in the market. A queen goes for $600 and comes with a 2 day delivery and 100 day right to return. Granted, you couldn't return it once it was cut, but you could roll it out and try it ashore for suitability and only cut it once your decision was made.

What am I missing?

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by jpendoley

My vberth foam cushions are old and uncomfortable. Since I live aboard 8 months at a stretch, I need a better solution. Foam mattresses are all the rage now, WayFair is advertising a queen size (the Nora) that consists of 7 layers of different foam types that total 12" thick over all. I assume they are laminated so why not template and cut with an electric knife?

I had considered ordering a custom built innerspring, but these foam mattresses seem to getting quick adoption in the market. A queen goes for $600 and comes with a 2 day delivery and 100 day right to return. Granted, you couldn't return it once it was cut, but you could roll it out and try it ashore for suitability and only cut it once your decision was made.

What am I missing?

Insure you are getting latex foam and stay away from memory junk. JMHO

[sailorchic34]

I have two "bed and the box" from wallyworld. I've used an 8" three ply in the v-berth and a 8" two ply in the salon berth. Both sleep well and I really can't tell the difference between the two. I've had the one in the V-berth since 2009 and it's a delight.

I found 1/4" foam 12x12 squares in sets of 10 for $2 at the dollar store. It's a floor kids puzzle thingy. It works perfectly for stopping condensation under the mattress and is $140 less then the fancy marine foam.

[JPA Cate]

Relative to the zippers, Saucy Sailoress is correct that if the zip has metal parts, those can be a source of difficulty. For mattress covers, I would use YKK all plastic #5 stock. I do not have trouble with my zips, and velcro's a hassle, to me.

On our boats, there have been storage lockers under the V-berths, and in order to have access to them, and for ease of getting them into the boat, our cushions have been split.

I have not been happy with our last polyurethane foam mattress. It has developed a cavity where I lie. Once, in the States, I had a high quality latex mattress, and it was a superior product. However, latex is heavier on a boat--and on land, of course-- and we have avoided it so far. Maybe next time, though.

Ann

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by JPA Cate

Relative to the zippers, Saucy Sailoress is correct that if the zip has metal parts, those can be a source of difficulty. For mattress covers, I would use YKK all plastic #5 stock. I do not have trouble with my zips, and velcro's a hassle, to me.

On our boats, there have been storage lockers under the V-berths, and in order to have access to them, and for ease of getting them into the boat, our cushions have been split.

I have not been happy with our last polyurethane foam mattress. It has developed a cavity where I lie. Once, in the States, I had a high quality latex mattress, and it was a superior product. However, latex is heavier on a boat--and on land, of course--and we have avoided it so far. Maybe next time, though.

Ann

Ann, I'm glad someone agrees on poly vs latex. It is difficult to find one made of entirely latex. They seem to layer them calling them latex?