Diesel Heater Advice

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by DefinitelyMe

No that's not correct. They do make bubbles. See the following link. Skip ahead to 15:10

Interesting. I have installed Wallas heaters and their pump does not do that.

Will be installing 2 Planar in the next while. Not sure if it is like the Wallas or the one you have as far as bubbles.

[Atcowboy]

Originally Posted by mitiempo

Interesting. I have installed Wallas heaters and their pump does not do that.

Will be installing 2 Planar in the next while. Not sure if it is like the Wallas or the one you have as far as bubbles.

I just got my Chinese heater in and bench tested and my pump makes bubbles, but very fine almost like light foam. Although the hosing I'm using right now came with the kit, so it's ID is bigger than he recommends. it definitely is not a chain of bubbles marching down the tube.

But I too don't see why there is any air in the line. I can see the action of the pump cavitating the fuel when it fires, causing a "bubble" but I would expect it to then collapse nearly instantly and not be visible.

- AT

[wmcunninghamii]

Originally Posted by Atcowboy

I just got my Chinese heater in and bench tested and my pump makes bubbles, but very fine almost like light foam. Although the hosing I'm using right now came with the kit, so it's ID is bigger than he recommends. it definitely is not a chain of bubbles marching down the tube.

But I too don't see why there is any air in the line. I can see the action of the pump cavitating the fuel when it fires, causing a "bubble" but I would expect it to then collapse nearly instantly and not be visible.

- AT

I have operated my unit (5Kw Chinese) for about 30 hours now and there are definitely bubbles. They are pretty much consistent through the complete 18 inch fuel line run. Having done quite a bit of work on my engine fuel system, I would have freaked out if I had not watched the Aussie Guy's videos.

The bubbles are why we need to ensure the dosing pump is installed such that those bubbles can easily escape the output of the pump and not remain within the pump body where a large accumulation of air will interfere with pump piston lubrication... according to the Aussie Guy.

[Atcowboy]

Originally Posted by DefinitelyMe

Here are a couple of photos. The first is the burner. Not too sooty but why is it red? If it was a spark plug I'd say it was running too hot. The burn pattern is uneven.

Second photo is the combustion chamber. Both photos were taken before cleaning. The pool of liquid at the bottom is unburned diesel.Attachment 231915Attachment 231916

That red looks like steel that got hot to me. I don't really know if that's how the inside is or isn't supposed to look but I don't think I'd worry about it, my guess is it's a good sign of complete combustion.

Comparing it to a spark plug isn't exactly 1:1. In a gas engine we don't want a stoichiometric mixture, we want excess fuel. The unburnt fuel hits the margins of the exhaust valves and carries away a lot of heat as it changes state from liquid to gas. Run too lean (hot) and you get that red spark plug. I imagine that these furnaces probably run at stoichiometric or possibly favoring an oxidising flame for more complete combustion. But, that's all just guesses.

- AT

[newhaul]

This one explains how to remove the atomizer screen
https://youtu.be/3ooqrRThBOI

[Atcowboy]

Originally Posted by wmcunninghamii

I have operated my unit (5Kw Chinese) for about 30 hours now and there are definitely bubbles. They are pretty much consistent through the complete 18 inch fuel line run. Having done quite a bit of work on my engine fuel system, I would have freaked out if I had not watched the Aussie Guy's videos.

The bubbles are why we need to ensure the dosing pump is installed such that those bubbles can easily escape the output of the pump and not remain within the pump body where a large accumulation of air will interfere with pump piston lubrication... according to the Aussie Guy.

I just don't see where the "air" comes from. Assuming that it's all perfectly air tight, we can't make matter out of nothing. I wonder if it's vaporized diesel? I seem to recall from my airframe and powerplant days that diesel isn't approved for planes because it has a low vapor pressure, so it will gasify. The bubbles could potentially be diesel....


.... Again, all guesses from a curious mind.

- AT

[jtsailjt]

Originally Posted by Atcowboy

I just don't see where the "air" comes from. Assuming that it's all perfectly air tight, we can't make matter out of nothing. I wonder if it's vaporized diesel? I seem to recall from my airframe and powerplant days that diesel isn't approved for planes because it has a low vapor pressure, so it will gasify. The bubbles could potentially be diesel....


.... Again, all guesses from a curious mind.

- AT

I think you're undoubtedly right that the bubbles aren't actually air, but whatever gas they are made up of, the same fluid dynamics principles apply.

[scfoster]

Originally Posted by Atcowboy

I just don't see where the "air" comes from. Assuming that it's all perfectly air tight, we can't make matter out of nothing. I wonder if it's vaporized diesel? I seem to recall from my airframe and powerplant days that diesel isn't approved for planes because it has a low vapor pressure, so it will gasify. The bubbles could potentially be diesel....


.... Again, all guesses from a curious mind.

- AT

Think of them as non-liquid voids with some percentage of vapor, not 'air'. Could be air (Nitrogen 78%, Oxygen 21%, etc.) but probably not. Once the line is primed (I would do this manually to ensure there is no air) then it's not something to worry about. Exception of course is ensuring that liquid diesel continues to lubricate the dosing valve.

Developed FADEC (Full Authority Digital Engine Control) for CH-47 Chinook helicopter, so have had plenty of kerosene all over me (nobody light a match )

[KenH]

Originally Posted by pcmm

I have one of these "Chinese heaters" onboard my CC Morgan OI 41. and its been great, but like any heater its all about the install. The heater might just cost $200 to buy but I spent close to $400 in parts get it installed. I needed the following to get my install completed:

right angle mounting plate (to allow mounting on a bulkhead )
8ft of Proper espar exhaust hose
1 stainless steel muffler
90 exhaust bend (for bottom of heater)
Transom exhaust fitting
exhaust lagging
insulated ducting
Adjustable damper to balance air flows
Glass work for air intake (from outside of cockpit coaming)
15 amp breaker for panel
wiring
CO detector

But now its setup nicely and I can work/visit my boat in the winter. I still need to insulate the hull to reduce heat loss but that's next.

Do you have pictures of the exhaust side of your Install?
That's the part I'm working on right now of which parts would be best for my thru hull...
Thanks

[pcmm]

Originally Posted by KenH

Do you have pictures of the exhaust side of your Install?
That's the part I'm working on right now of which parts would be best for my thru hull...
Thanks

My Diesel heater is installed in my engine room (Center cockpit) so my routing is a bit different than most. My exhaust fitting exits the boat on the starboard side aft of the cockpit (to keep the exhaust run short) Hopefully the 2 pictures attached. In one you see the engine room and if you look at the very top of the picture you can just see the CDH and the exhaust ( with wrap) exiting to the right of the room. In the other picture you see the other side of the engineroom bulkhead with the wrapped exhaust heading uphill, through a muffler and then over a loop and out the "transom fitting" in the side of the hull.

All of this used the parts I mentioned in my previous post.

Not sure why CF rotated the exhaust image here!

[KenH]

Originally Posted by pcmm

My Diesel heater is installed in my engine room (Center cockpit) so my routing is a bit different than most. My exhaust fitting exits the boat on the starboard side aft of the cockpit (to keep the exhaust run short) Hopefully the 2 pictures attached. In one you see the engine room and if you look at the very top of the picture you can just see the CDH and the exhaust ( with wrap) exiting to the right of the room. In the other picture you see the other side of the engineroom bulkhead with the wrapped exhaust heading uphill, through a muffler and then over a loop and out the "transom fitting" in the side of the hull.

All of this used the parts I mentioned in my previous post.

Not sure why CF rotated the exhaust image here!

Thank you..
That's one of the problems I have also. A center cockpit with walk around. No way to vent with out a really long line. Main Birth is aft.
I figured that I will mount it above my quarter birth. Then I would only need the two lines they send for intake and exhaust. Plus plumb the air on one side of the boat. Would be nice though to put it in the Engine compartment.
Did you use just SS 1" thru hulls?

[pcmm]

Originally Posted by KenH

Thank you..
That's one of the problems I have also. A center cockpit with walk around. No way to vent with out a really long line. Main Birth is aft.
I figured that I will mount it above my quarter birth. Then I would only need the two lines they send for intake and exhaust. Plus plumb the air on one side of the boat. Would be nice though to put it in the Engine compartment.
Did you use just SS 1" thru hulls?

For the skin fitting I used an actual skin fitting designed for this purpose like the attached image. It provides heat protection to the hull.

[hpeer]

I too have a CC, the big boat. The Espar is mounted over the engine. I have a bracket but also some light chain; belts and suspenders.

I have a closet on the port side where I could route the exhaust. Engine room, to I took the exhaust out through closet, then up and exhausts out the cockpit coaming via a locker.

IIRC the max run length was 10’. What ever it was I used every inch of it. No muffler. Works a charm.

[Windpilot]

This is my similar install. I also paid more for the extra marine parts than the heater itself costs.
My exhaust runs downhill luckily.

[KenH]

Thanks everyone!

One more question, Did any of you use 5200 or 4200 with the gaskets for the thru hole?
Just wondering if the gaskets work enough for sealing.

This is the one I was going to get.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...SUQG9XCW&psc=1