[SOLD] Victron Quattro 230/240V 12/3000/120/50/50

[s/v Jedi]

We are changing our battery bank from 12V to 24V so need to replace the inverter/charger. This quattro is the version with 50A transfer switches on it’s two inputs. It is 230/240V 50/60Hz so works for all 230V 50Hz installations as is, or for the US 240V 60Hz or for the US 120/240V 60Hz service. For the 120/240V service, an additional auto transformer is required.

Brand/model: Victron Quattro 230/240V 50/60Hz 12/3000/120-50/50
Condition: used, like new
Location: Port Canaveral, Florida
Price: $1,500

This unit is very heavy (19 kg) so expensive to ship, recommend to collect it instead.

[s/v Jedi]

Okay, it’s priced too high? I’ll reduce to $1,250.-

Best price on-line is currently $2,170 so this should be a good deal!
https://shop.pkys.com/12-Volt-Quattr...VAC_c_876.html

[Adventuresail]

I wonder if a honda 2200 would operate the 120 amp charger?

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Adventuresail

I wonder if a honda 2200 would operate the 120 amp charger?

In the settings, you can limit input current, so yes you can load it up to the level it likes.

For charging amps, you have to divide the generator continuous rating by charging voltage, like 14V. So that is 1,800 / 14 = 128A so it should be just able to get 120A out.

You can also limit the charger to a lower charge current, like 100A or 80A etc.

[s/v Jedi]

I’ll make this offer more attractive by throwing in a Victron Digital Multi Control.

[s/v Jedi]

I just got word back from the buyer of the Outback MPPT controller I sold: it was shipped with USPS ground from Florida to Seattle and arrived in perfect condition.

In the mean time I have received the new 24V units which means I do have a good box to ship this unit in as the dimensions are the same.

It’s not cheap, shipping was priced at $65 for a potential buyer in Maryland (he cancelled as he needed a 120V unit) so shipping is possible and doesn’t add too much to the price if you’re not too far from Florida.

This ad is apparently not clear for US code wired boats so let me expand on that: if you buy a 120V inverter/charger, as used to be the normal way to go, this was exactly what you got: 120V. However, that is not the US standard as used ashore, where you get 120/240V service, which allows for more powerful appliances like electric stoves, cooktops, ovens, dryers etc.

Now that new boats come with all electric galleys and many boats are converting, having 120/240V service aboard is becoming more common. There are two ways to do this: using two 120V inverter/chargers interconnected in a special way, or using a 240V inverter/charger (or multiple units in parallel for more power), followed by an auto-transformer. The auto transformer creates a new neutral so that you get 120V between neutral and L1 as well as between neutral and L2, just like shore installations.

The big advantage for the transformer setup is that you have perfect balancing. When you use the first option, each inverter/charger can only be loaded up to it’s maximum power. This can make it impossible to run an appliance because neither unit can handle the extra power, while both combined would have more than enough.

With the auto transformer, the transformer takes care of any imbalance. The Victron auto transformer can re-balance up to 32A which is always enough for use aboard. It’s also cost effective and much smaller and lighter than an isolation transformer.

So the perfect upgrade to a US boat with 120V 30A shore power is like this: upgrade the shore power connection to 120/240V 50A service like standard in marinas. You will need a new breaker after the inlet. Now connect either a galvanic isolator or an isolation transformer. After that, connect L1 and L2 to a 240V inverter/charger like I’m selling here. You don’t connect the neutral at all.
If you have a generator, it needs to be changed to 240V as well. I had to reconfigure two wire jumpers (put windings in series instead of parallel) as well as a little jumper in the voltage regulator to set that at 240V. Now connect the generator L1 and L2 to the Quattro input as well. Again, do not use the Neutral from the generator, but do ground Neutral it at the generator (it probably already is).

On the Quattro output you get 240V L1 and L2 just like what was put in. The settings of the Quattro are set to 240V, 60Hz and not use ground relay (the rest of defaults are fine). Now the output is connected to the auto transformer, which adds the new neutral (which must be permanently grounded with a jumper, no need for the relay as the neutral from shore is not used) and you have the same 120-0-120 service as is common in the US.

Since we did this, we found we could change jumpers on the motor of our watermaker pressure pump to 240V so it runs much better (startup surge and running amps halved!), we changed the water heater element to a 240V version and when we bought a new A/C we changed that to 240V as well. Also, now you can install a real 2-4 burner induction cooktop in the galley, which are all 240V.

If the above is abracadabra to you, please use a qualified installer.