Your Favorite Adhesives

[flightlead404]

Originally Posted by Joe Okros

Loctite 518 anaerobic glue. I repair small outboards as a hobby and its invaluable for sealing the cases.

Have you tried 574? I've used that to seal case halves on 911 motors, works great!

[Thumbs Up]

Originally Posted by hirondeller

Anyone try this? 'Sikaflex Pro', I am only a consumer of this product and have no contact or affiliation with Sika. It is Labeled Sikabond Construction adhesive. Model #505423. It also comes in a 10oz tube, Model # 106403......
On a big job (I am going to bed all my replacement Lexan windows on my catamaran with this) the price is compelling. I will post a 'new string' follow up, on the windows.
Please share a post if you try it.

Let us know how that works out. Even if it is similar to 3M 5200, no one would recommend 5200 to bed Lexan boat windows. Dow 795 silicone is the sealant of choice for this application.

[hirondeller]

I know that silicones are preferred on boat windows because they are not so powerfully adhesive, this makes the eventual removal much easier.

However, I saw a video showing the installation of a 'modern' (2004) car front windshield. They used a polyurethane, there were no fittings or gaskets they just glued the window in and used duct tape as a 'clamp', some decorative plastic covered some joints, the edges of the window had a painted black line to hide the glue underneath. Note that the adhesive on a car has to withstand repeated 'hurricane force' 85 mph winds on the freeway, all types of inclement weather and UV.


Removal of the old window was admittedly difficult, the workers sawed through the old adhesive with a wire and a specialized sharpened (no teeth) knife blade on a recip saw. I would use a super sharp 'no teeth' multitool blade and a hook blade used foor cutting thick roofing. Car windshields last for decades without leaks. I might give this 'Sika Pro' a try and worry about cutting out the tightly stuck windows in some far future.


Is this loopy, or, might it work?

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by hirondeller

I know that silicones are preferred on boat windows because they are not so powerfully adhesive, this makes the eventual removal much easier.

However, I saw a video showing the installation of a 'modern' (2004) car front windshield. They used a polyurethane, there were no fittings or gaskets they just glued the window in and used duct tape as a 'clamp', some decorative plastic covered some joints, the edges of the window had a painted black line to hide the glue underneath. Note that the adhesive on a car has to withstand repeated 'hurricane force' 85 mph winds on the freeway, all types of inclement weather and UV.

Removal of the old window was admittedly difficult, the workers sawed through the old adhesive with a wire and a specialized sharpened (no teeth) knife blade on a recip saw. I would use a super sharp 'no teeth' multitool blade and a hook blade used foor cutting thick roofing. Car windshields last for decades without leaks. I might give this 'Sika Pro' a try and worry about cutting out the tightly stuck windows in some far future.

Is this loopy, or, might it work?

A silicone like Dow 795 or others like it are glazing grade as well. They go on skyscraper windows without any additional fasteners.

BTW, I once removed a small bathroom sink that had regular bathroom silicone caulk in the corner between itself and the tile wall. After removing the wall anchors there was nobody able to take it off the wall and that included sitting on it etc. It’s pretty strong

[Thumbs Up]

There are lot's of discussions on this. Look for some threads that user Chotu started last year or so. Might work is not good enough. There are specific and detailed instructions for each product and the size and type of window. Dow 795 holds skyscraper windows in. You can find it some places for as little as $10.00 a tube. It is easier to learn from others mistakes than your own. If you want to use a car windshield adhesive, there are specific ones. A self leveling concrete sealant that takes weeks to cure could be problematic in your situation. Better to do it right the first time.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by hirondeller

I know that silicones are preferred on boat windows because they are not so powerfully adhesive, this makes the eventual removal much easier.

However, I saw a video showing the installation of a 'modern' (2004) car front windshield. They used a polyurethane, there were no fittings or gaskets they just glued the window in and used duct tape as a 'clamp', some decorative plastic covered some joints, the edges of the window had a painted black line to hide the glue underneath. Note that the adhesive on a car has to withstand repeated 'hurricane force' 85 mph winds on the freeway, all types of inclement weather and UV.


Removal of the old window was admittedly difficult, the workers sawed through the old adhesive with a wire and a specialized sharpened (no teeth) knife blade on a recip saw. I would use a super sharp 'no teeth' multitool blade and a hook blade used foor cutting thick roofing. Car windshields last for decades without leaks. I might give this 'Sika Pro' a try and worry about cutting out the tightly stuck windows in some far future.


Is this loopy, or, might it work?

Somehow, you've been given bad information on several fronts.


a. Polyurethanes can cause crazing of Lexan. You can find it on supplier web sites and I've had it happen to me. Polyurethane sealants are not generally compatible with Lexan. Glass is a different animal.



b. Silicon is NOT preferred because it is easier to remove. Not at all. It is preferred because DOW 795 specifically has superior UV resistance, specifically in the bond area. See c.



c. Polyurethane has **** UV resistance in the bond area. It does well in most applications (sun not on the bond side--that only happens with glazing), but if you put it on Lexan or glass and shine sun on the bond side, the bond fails in 1-3 years. You will notice that when polyurethane is used, the bond area is ALWAYS primed with and expensive primer to prevent this UV problem. For example, SIKA 295 is recommended for glazing, but SIKA sells a primer to use with it in glazing applications.


d. 3M 5200 does not have enough stretch for the job. You can use polyurethane (SIKA 295), but the products that work are much softer.


Just use DOW 795. Simpler and it will work the first time. We've done this before.

[hirondeller]

DOW 795 sounds like the right product for Lexan windows, thanks to all for the advice.

[hirondeller]

From post #65: "A self leveling concrete sealant that takes weeks to cure could be problematic in your situation. Better to do it right the first time."


Just to clarify, I am recommending Sikabond Construction adhesive (but not for Lexan as discussed above). It is Sika Model #505423. It also comes in a 10oz tube, Model # 106403. It is an 'all purpose' adhesive and not self-leveling, it is 'thick', but not as thick as 5200. Look in the 'adhesive section' of your big box store there are a dozen cement products in the building materials section of the store, (near the cement bags). Those cement products are not what I am referring to.



1/3 the price of 5200 is attractive. If someone tries it as a replacement for 5200 please post your opinion. I am surprised it does not have more users since it is a general 'immersion proof' adhesive at reasonable cost. Worth a try?

[Sailorman97]

Originally Posted by hirondeller

1/3 the price of 5200 is attractive. If someone tries it as a replacement for 5200 please post your opinion. I am surprised it does not have more users since it is a general 'immersion proof' adhesive at reasonable cost. Worth a try?

Hmm... 5200 and 291 et al... cost $13 to $16 Canadian. I dropped the keel on my Idylle 51. We used 40 tubes of SikaFlex 291 to bed the keel. Most of it ended up on the ground. I will bet you $1,000 I have no gaps in the sealant in my keel. Worth every penny spent.

If your in the yachting game and your worried about $10 on a tube of adhesive you need to change hobbies. Sooner is better for you mental health.

Elmore Leonard said : I spent most of my dough on booze, broads and boats and the rest I wasted

I will never ever recoup my financial losses on my boats. It has to be north of $400k by now. ( the last is the worst. 50ft of boat costs a lot to refit) I don't care. The boat is not for sale. I did not build it to make money. Saving $10 on adhesive is not even a consideration and frankly I like to save a buck when I can.

[Sailorman97]

Originally Posted by Thumbs Up

Might work is not good enough..... Better to do it right the first time.

I have done enough repairs of failed marine adhesive applications that I have to concur. The prep to do the repair is usually arduous but not near as arduous as the clean from the failed repair will be.

[Sailorman97]

Originally Posted by thinwater

For example, SIKA 295 is recommended for glazing, but SIKA sells a primer to use with it in glazing applications.


Just use DOW 795. Simpler and it will work the first time. We've done this before.

Had bad luck with Sika 295. 3 applications. Failed every time.

I have used SCS 2000 (silpruin) on acrylic windows. Good results.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Sailorman97

Had bad luck with Sika 295. 3 applications. Failed every time.

I have used SCS 2000 (silpruin) on acrylic windows. Good results.

Yes, but SCS 2000 is very much like Dow 795 I think. Neither are comparable to Sika 295 which is a polyurethane.

[hirondeller]

Hi Sailorman 97 (a reply to post #69).


Sure, saving a few dollars for an individual job might not be worth the risk for one individual, what about a big job or boatbuilding? What about using the 'collective wisdom of a crowd' on an internet forum to make an advance for everyone? I am opining that Sika Model 106403 seems very inexpensive, readily available, and has worked for me.


I will respectfully point out that this is a thread about 'favorite adhesives' and the OP solicited opinions.


I have used this particular Sika on my boat and house many times: pvc board to fiberglass (in my boat motor well), aluminum to drywall (hung a lamp to the ceiling with it), rubber patch (on a bike inner tube), cement board to wood (soffit job), many others. It seems like a good, readily available product that might well substitute for a much more expensive one ('immersion proof' is a big deal for an adhesive) and help everyone if people test it and post.


Perhaps the ultra expensive 'horse hoof glue' and 'white lead paste' was good enough for the boat Moses sailed, it is not 'good enough for me'. Can I nudge you to try it before deciding?