You Don't Know What You Don't KNow-Preventative Maintenance

[gamayun]

Totally agree with the suggestions above (except for re-torquing the keel bolts). I'm doing a lot of work on my boat where I need to remove stuff (main sail blocks, radar mount, cleats in boom, mast head fittings), some of which were installed only 4-5 years ago, and I've started to become a true believer in Tef Gell'ing all the shackle pins and bolted on stuff -- if you ever want to remove them again. It's amazing how even some so-called pros screw things in with nothing on the threads. Good to go around and check them all. Also, re-grease the rudder post and other such things that have zirc fittings. Such a pain to crawl back there and easy to forget about.

[Kerry1]

Originally Posted by gamayun

Totally agree with the suggestions above (except for re-torquing the keel bolts). I'm doing a lot of work on my boat where I need to remove stuff (main sail blocks, radar mount, cleats in boom, mast head fittings), some of which were installed only 4-5 years ago, and I've started to become a true believer in Tef Gell'ing all the shackle pins and bolted on stuff -- if you ever want to remove them again. It's amazing how even some so-called pros screw things in with nothing on the threads. Good to go around and check them all. Also, re-grease the rudder post and other such things that have zirc fittings. Such a pain to crawl back there and easy to forget about.

Why would you not agree with re-torquing the keel bolts? I have heard of others agreeing with you but I forget the reasons behind this. Galling is certainly an issue with metal to metal contact. I think you have to use the right compounds for particular metals. Is Tef Gell suitable for all metals?

"Zirc" fittings? Zinc?

[Kerry1]

Originally Posted by hugosalt

Bought boat new in 1985 and make a point to do preventive maintenance
every year a few projects large and small.

Mast had not been down in 8 years so was time for close inspection of rig
Old roller furler was well old... had done all the revitalizing I could on it
but with rig down was time. Also all other lights aboard changed to LED
so now all LED on mast as well.

On your HE just open end cap, take a look, you will know if time to clean.
Radiator shop can do or do yourself not big job.
I flush my raw water system every few years (3-5)? Have to keep my
32 yo motor happy.

I make my list, prioritize and if I get half projects I plan for year done
I consider it a major victory.

Even so, are surprises.
This year is first year I left boat in water (Usually high and dry/covered)
Came back from great winter sail today on friends boat and checked mine to
find bilge pump on strike. Tomorrow will be checking/changing if needed. Was
on my list to change last season but not done. and so it goes...on and on...

What is involved in cleaning the Heat Exchanger? At present I have a good water flow and no steam, engine temp unchanged since the original owner noted on the workshop manual what temp. the engine typically operated at.

Removing mast seems a big job, and 8 years not long since previous removal. But if it's a 30+ yr old boat, does that mean more regular removal is necessary?

How are most bilge pumps wired, what is the recommended system? Auto on float switch or manual? Both? Our system has a float switch, but short of flooding the bilge deliberately how do I test it will operate? I can switch it on manually and an alarm sounds and I hear the pump motor.

[DavidSaunders]

Originally Posted by Kerry1

Removing mast seems a big job, and 8 years not long since previous removal. But if it's a 30+ yr old boat, does that mean more regular removal is necessary?

Hi Kerry1
Here in Canada about half the boats I have seen in various marinas remove the mast every year, when they are in storage for our relatively long winters. I have removed mine annually and found it good to be able to take a good long look at the systems and components with my feet on stable ground. You will have to re-tension your rig properly when reinstalling the mast. Some people mark their turnbuckles with tape so they know at least approximately where they will go the following year. There are various rig tensioning devices available...Loos is fairly common, Spinlock came out with a new version in the recent past. Racers in your marina will likely have these and may let you borrow one for an hour in exchange for a beer or six.

Originally Posted by Kerry1

How are most bilge pumps wired, what is the recommended system? Auto on float switch or manual? Both? Our system has a float switch, but short of flooding the bilge deliberately how do I test it will operate? I can switch it on manually and an alarm sounds and I hear the pump motor.

Most bilge pumps I have seen are wired directly to the battery. This is good because it avoids potential hassles with extra wire connections at the manual switch and forgetting to turn it on before leaving the boat, etc, but also risky because you might return to the marina and find a flat battery and wet boat if you have a leak.

Some bilge pumps have integrated switches. You could easily test either type by getting the switch part into a bucket of water for a second or two, but I'd really be tempted to test the whole system by pouring the water into the bilge to see if the water actually goes out. It will at best make for a little swabbing up, and at worst, replacement of the entire system. Either way you will know what you want to know.

Someone above asked about zerk fittings. They are grease nipples, generally threaded into whatever you are trying to grease so you can attach your grease gun and give it a dose. I wouldn't use dirty ones, but here is a representative picture.

[Kerry1]

Oh ok, zerk fittings= grease nipples, gotcha. Wow annual mast removal. That's really fastidious. Mind you with the Canadian winter extremes that must make a difference. Down under we have the ability to sail all year round, at least keep them in the water all year- just an annual haulout to do bottom work and other jobs easier on the hard. Thanks for all your input.