Yet another seacock question

[mbowser]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

The handle removes, it’s just a sticker covering the screw.

Good to know thanks.

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

It’s obvious you are fishing for an okay to just turn the fitting instead but imho that’s not the logical thing to do.

Yep, I'm busted. However, I do see a lot of variation in these installs and I'm trying to evaluate the risk. The original install for this particular seacock lasted over 30 years without issue and the only way it could have been installed was by tightening the through hull, not the seacock. Additionally, I just got off the phone with the owner of a boatyard down in Mattapoisett MA that I used to work with and he said that with flanged seacocks they generally tighten from the outside but either way is acceptable.

[Bowdrie]

Rotating the valve/seacock Vs rotating the thruhull?
Much of that discussuion devolves to Murphy's Law, which states that if the seacock is rotated the handle will never end-up in the orientation/position that you desire.
Test fits with dry threads invaribly are different from real fits where some kind of "stuff" has been applied to the threads.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by mbowser

Good to know thanks.

Yep, I'm busted. However, I do see a lot of variation in these installs and I'm trying to evaluate the risk. The original install for this particular seacock lasted over 30 years without issue and the only way it could have been installed was by tightening the through hull, not the seacock. Additionally, I just got off the phone with the owner of a boatyard down in Mattapoisett MA that I used to work with and he said that with flanged seacocks they generally tighten from the outside but either way is acceptable.

I wouldn’t be sure of that, I think they took the handle off and turned the seacock, not the fitting.

[Happ]

Originally Posted by deblen

Link that may help.
Suggest you avoid 5200.It is very permanent. 4200 or Sika will suffice.


https://marinehowto.com/category/plumbing/

I agree 4200 or Sika ABSOLUTELY! You will find it nearly impossible to remove with 5200.

[Talbot]

I fitted forespar throughout my boat 10years ago.
3 bigg ones and 9 littles. Made that decision as getting real 100% bronze was very difficult, and expensive. Got fed up with so called experts telling me that the gunmetal ones available were just as good. Besides the boat had 13years with some other marelon valves but I could not establish their make. I wanted new valves because I had long distance plans at the time but health changed those plans after the refit!
I saw the video referred to by a previous poster. IMHO if you treat your valves like that you deserve a problem.
I am very happy with my decision.

[Noahr]

I switched my 6 though-hulls to Marelon Forespar Series 93 a few years ago and am not that happy with them. For some reason they are very tight to operate—even though I exercise them frequently and have greased them while on the hard. Also, the handles are a bit short to give much leverage when operating them. Maybe this model is safer than the original Forespar design but (for me) they don’t operate as well.

[akopac]

Originally Posted by hlev00

I expect you realize but there is an enormous difference between 4200 and 5200. 5200 is permanent for all practical purposes. Don’t use 5200 on an seacock / skin fitting. Odd the would even suggest 5200.

Heating 5200 will break it down for removal of fittings…

[Bowdrie]

5200 is permanent, until it isn't.
I've had to remove a lot of different hardware/fittings, and even wood parts that were bedded with it, some were easy, some were not, a few would enable you to invent new phrases of colorful language.
It doesn't particularly stick to stainless steel all that great, a good example being the use of it for hull/deck joints.
It's flexible enough to allow the joint to "work", but over time the bond breaks down around the fasteners, (that generally are SS FHMS,) and that's where most of the leaks come from.
In fairness though, pulling a flat-head fastener down into a countersink doesn't leave much room for sealant, no matter the type.
Diesel fuel will soften it also.
But I'll still not hesitate to use it for most underwater applications.

[skipperpete]

I’ve had a few failures with 5200 and I’ve been a true believer for years. I only use the fast cure, the “normal” cure just takes too long to set and I often don’t have time to wait. More recently I’ve been using fixtech, mainly because 5200 is difficult to get and very expensive when I can get it. I don’t particularly like Sikaflex, I saw some serious teak deck bedding failures with Sika where the whole deck had to be lifted and re-laid, paid for by Sikaflex so I developed a mistrust of their products purely based on that and would avoid installing seacocks with it.

[Bowdrie]

Originally Posted by skipperpete

I don’t particularly like Sikaflex, I saw some serious teak deck bedding failures with Sika where the whole deck had to be lifted and re-laid, paid for by Sikaflex

Was the goal to "glue" the teak down, (so the fasteners are superfluous,) or to "bed" it down and seal the seams?
Much of the time efforts to "glue down" a thick teak deck are met with frustration/failure, sometimes special epoxies can be used that are formulated to work with tropical hardwoods, as available from "Smiths".
West System can be used but they want to see the teak on the thin side, like ~1/4 to 5/16 in. thick.
Traditionally, the better/best results for the seams have always come from the 2-part Polysulfides, such as the 2-part Life-Calk, (one of the very few products of its type still available in smaller quantity).
For decades the standard of the industry was "Detco-Grove", a 2-part Thiokol polysulfide/rubber.
One can also get "Jeffery's Marine Glue", it's not really a "glue" in the sense that we think of as an adhesive, you melt it and pour it into seams.
Now that we no longer have the 3M 101 Polysulfide, most of the stuff-in-a-tube is a Polyurethane, and it ain't worth much for sealing teak deck seams.
https://www.boatlife.com/wp-content/...-rev-08.21.pdf
Edit, I might add that Sika wants you to use their primer on the teak before using the 290 polyurethane.
Taping-off a few hundred feet of deck seam and having to prime it before using the 290 adds a lot of time effort.