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Old 20-12-2018, 09:04   #16
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Re: Wood framing to Fibreglass berth ceiling: Adhesive or screws?

Heresy offered:
3M VHB double sided tape.
Supposedly holds windows on skyscrapers. Fenders to cars.
I've used it to place small equipment in difficult locations. However, my applications have been with load vector parallel to surface, not pulling directly away. I think stuff is wonderful, but have not lived with it for years.
Important: Clean surface! I really like product Krud Kutter for initial clean. Whatever used should not leave a residue. Also important, calculate weight held per surface area of tape used.
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Old 20-12-2018, 10:51   #17
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Re: Wood framing to Fibreglass berth ceiling: Adhesive or screws?

I would go with 5200, or fast set 5200. As said shallow saw cuts across the grain will help bending the wood if necessary. I would not use screws, only if necessary. epoxy , and a few dabs of fast set or hot glue will work, not too thick with thickner. Strips of scrap wood 1/2 x1 cut longer than the distance between the bunk and the wood stringers will allow you to bend the wood and use it to hold the stringer in place. You will have to experiment with wood sizes ,thickness and length to get a bend and hold up the stringer , typeof wood is also a factor, ie. pine vs oak. I would use cedar or mahonany, cedar bends easier.
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Old 20-12-2018, 11:03   #18
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Re: Wood framing to Fibreglass berth ceiling: Adhesive or screws?

I would go with post 4 and laminate the pieces to achieve the curve. You may wish to make a jig to fabricate them. I'd glue them up. Today's glues are tenacious. Poking holes in the overhead isn't a smart idea. JMHO
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Old 20-12-2018, 13:11   #19
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Re: Wood framing to Fibreglass berth ceiling: Adhesive or screws?

Boat building and restoration/refit/ is not just one huge job...It is hundreds of minor projects...which of course take time and money. (work space cost, utilities, transportation, cost of materials, plus ...Do you put a monetary Value on your time?)

There is always the ultimate correct; high quality method of completing each and every aspect one of those individual projects; An essential aspect of course is having the trade skills and knowledge to be able to recognize what true perfection is. Especially in terms of appearance and /ultimate strength. Then diligently apply your sense of ethics to your work so that as each micromanaged side project becomes completed. Thus It contributes into the ultimate outcome of a perfectly built Yacht.

When any of the requirements that I have mentioned above are missing,,,
trade knowledge,
shop space and (machine) tools.

That is when short cuts get taken? causing people invoke that reference to the chair bodgers of old High Wickham.UK. Though some argue that a bodger is not a botcher.

It is very true that the magnitude of the task can be emotionally draining as you strive toward the ultimate out come? When you reach the 'light at the end of the tunnel" (and hopefully you do come our the other side...not everyone does)With project like this: It is hoped that it will be obvious that the ultimate correct high quality method of doing each task was always taken.

Reginald Stacey was a boat builder from Southend on sea UK. Last met Him aged 72 in 1992 when He built a test model for an open towing boat for me. I would be surprised If he were still with us?. However over the years I have learnt much from the life time experience of such people. Reg always Emphasized the importance that every piece of wood in a boat should be a perfect fit to be built in without any stress. "it makes a happy boat" he would say.

Of course everyone should know that in boat building there are three traditional methods of shaping a piece of wood to fit into its location.

The shape sawn out of a grown crook.
matched planer milled laminates clamped over a sawn out form.
or steam bending, preferably also over a sawn out form, or clamps against the location in the vessel where attachment will ultimately take place.

In the case of small dimension material used as rafters in a head liner. steam bending can be achieved with a simple domestic electric kettle and a length of PVC water pipe.

If I were doing the job I would probably build a form. Find a beam longer than the beam of the vessel. place a measured block at the centre point and then apply clamping at the ends of the plank against the beam thus causing a bow with slightly greater amount of curvature than the under side of the coach roof.

Steam the material for the rafter sufficiently and then upon withdrawal rapidly clamp it to the form. Once cool it will spring back slightly. change the height of your fulcrum block accordingly to make an adjustment.

Tradition states Nail where you can, screw where you must, and bolt where you have to, I will concede that in some cases taking advantage of the improved adhesives now available adds quality to the method.
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adhesive, crew

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