Windlass gypsy won't release chain

[sheepstations]

Hi all, I have a 33'er with a vertical windlass. Don't know the make or model I'm afraid.
You spin a clutch release at the top of the windlass to loosen the clutch and allow the anchor to freefall and drop.
When I fully release the clutch, the windlass gypsy is rock solid, does not rotate to allow the chain to freefall.
What would cause the gypsy to lock-up like this?
I can engage the motor to raise the anchor but must admit, this is only 50/50. Not sure if it's a dud deck switch or bad connection somewhere. I'm not sure if the 2 things are related but my main issue at the moment is the jammed gypsy.
Any ideas?

[Bowdrie]

In most vertical units the handle/disc on the top is not the clutch, although some do use that scheme.
The gypsy engages the clutch/drive shaft inside its bottom recess, the handle on top just forces the gypsy down onto the clutch surface.
With the handle fully released, (unscrewed to its stop,) can you tap in a couple of wooden wedges under the gypsy to see if it will lift/pop free of the clutch surface?
Some are metal-to-metal, others are a composition-to-metal, (like a brake shoe).
The metal-to-metal can corrode together, the composition-to-metal ones can jam if overtightened too much and left that way.
When not in use the gypsy should not be left tightly engaged, it's only to lift the chain/anchor, not hold the boat.

[Tin Tin]

You might have your gypsy ratchet lock on, sometimes a small red lever on the side of the windlass or a capstan lock button.

[sheepstations]

Originally Posted by Tin Tin

You might have your gypsy ratchet lock on, sometimes a small red lever on the side of the windlass or a capstan lock button.

Thanks but definitely not the case. I actually pulled the windlass apart as much as I could so all I could see was the central shaft.
When pulled apart, that central shaft was still rock solid and would not rotate.

[sheepstations]

Originally Posted by Bowdrie

In most vertical units the handle/disc on the top is not the clutch, although some do use that scheme.
The gypsy engages the clutch/drive shaft inside its bottom recess, the handle on top just forces the gypsy down onto the clutch surface.
With the handle fully released, (unscrewed to its stop,) can you tap in a couple of wooden wedges under the gypsy to see if it will lift/pop free of the clutch surface?
Some are metal-to-metal, others are a composition-to-metal, (like a brake shoe).
The metal-to-metal can corrode together, the composition-to-metal ones can jam if overtightened too much and left that way.
When not in use the gypsy should not be left tightly engaged, it's only to lift the chain/anchor, not hold the boat.

Thanks for your input, much appreciated. As mentioned to Tin Tin, I actually pulled the windlass apart as much as I could so all I could see was the central shaft.
When pulled apart, that central shaft was still rock solid and would not rotate.
If I understand correctly, based on your advice, should I give the central shaft a few love taps with a hammer or rubber mallet to see if I can release the clutch surface?

[Bowdrie]

In the "clutch released" position the gypsy should rotate on the shaft.
The shaft can't rotate on its own, it's geared to the motor with a worm gear.
The "clutch" as it were, simply connects the gypsy to the shaft.
No, I wouldn't go banging on the shaft.
Can you post a picture, someone on this forum will know the windlass brand/model.
Then you'll get positive info instead of a bunch of us guessing.

[wrwakefield]

We have a different windlass with polyurethane lined conical clutch plates [on stainless steel] that are sometimes stuck when the clutch is released- as you describe.

The manufacturer recommends releasing the clutch and then briefly powering up until the clutch plates release [usually a second or two.] The clutch quickly pops free and the chain starts gravity deploying immediately.

This works well on our Lighthouse 1501 horizontal windlass. I have never tried this on any other windlass.

In case it is worth a try…

Cheers, Bill

[JPA Cate]

Are you absolutely certain the chain is free to go? We have had chain get so stirred up and fouled on itself, that we eventually installed power down. When upping anchor , we would knock the chain pile down in the processes of getting it back aboard to avoid the falling over of the stack of chain which led to many after midnight battles on deck.

The suggestion above to get us a picture of it is way good, you'll probably get someone who does know the windlass well, and be able to help more meaningfully.

Ann

[Madehn]

I have an ideal vertical windlass that did the same thing. Do NOT bang on the shaft. When you loosen the top then the gypsy should spin on the stationary shaft. Should be able to pull gypsy off and inspect clutch plate. In my case replacing the clutch plate solved the problem. Good luck

[Madehn]

Clutch plate on mine was about 1/2?inch thick. One I replaced was compressed/ worn to maybe 1/2 that.

[Sailor 99]

Originally Posted by sheepstations

Hi all, I have a 33'er with a vertical windlass. Don't know the make or model I'm afraid.
You spin a clutch release at the top of the windlass to loosen the clutch and allow the anchor to freefall and drop.
When I fully release the clutch, the windlass gypsy is rock solid, does not rotate to allow the chain to freefall.
What would cause the gypsy to lock-up like this?
I can engage the motor to raise the anchor but must admit, this is only 50/50. Not sure if it's a dud deck switch or bad connection somewhere. I'm not sure if the 2 things are related but my main issue at the moment is the jammed gypsy.
Any ideas?

All the gypsies I have seen are bronz. Bronze expands when heated. Get a gear or pully puller set and put it on to press down on the shaft and pull up on the gypsy. Then get a map map torch and heat the gypse. Do not let the torch stray to much onto the windlass body. They are often aluminum and when it hits 1000 degrees the aluminum will just evaporate.

Once you have been on it for a few minutes try and turn the puller. If it moves just pull it up and off. If not apply more heat.

My gypse was seized and that is what I did.

When you put it back together put a little dielectric grease on the shaft. If you have a rope capstan put a little grease on that part of the shaft too. A little goes a long way. Do not put any grease between the capstan and the gypse. If you do your capstan will just slip.

[davil]

Originally Posted by sheepstations

Hi all, I have a 33'er with a vertical windlass. Don't know the make or model I'm afraid.
You spin a clutch release at the top of the windlass to loosen the clutch and allow the anchor to freefall and drop.
When I fully release the clutch, the windlass gypsy is rock solid, does not rotate to allow the chain to freefall.
What would cause the gypsy to lock-up like this?
I can engage the motor to raise the anchor but must admit, this is only 50/50. Not sure if it's a dud deck switch or bad connection somewhere. I'm not sure if the 2 things are related but my main issue at the moment is the jammed gypsy.
Any ideas?

=====================================
might help to post pictures of the windlass, somebody may recognize brand/model

[sheepstations]

Originally Posted by Bowdrie

In the "clutch released" position the gypsy should rotate on the shaft.
The shaft can't rotate on its own, it's geared to the motor with a worm gear.
The "clutch" as it were, simply connects the gypsy to the shaft.
No, I wouldn't go banging on the shaft.
Can you post a picture, someone on this forum will know the windlass brand/model.
Then you'll get positive info instead of a bunch of us guessing.

Thanks so much for your help. I ended up sorting it out.
Turns out the top 'winch' section was stuck to the bottom 'gypsy' section through lack of grease. Once I got top and bottom separated and lubed, it was job done.
You learn something everyday.
Thanks again for your help.
JR

[JPA Cate]

Glad it helped. CF Works again!!

[lifeofreilly57]

Most vertical windlasses have a clutch, usually a cone type clutch.
On mine you need to service it from time to time or they'll gall and stick, I used a waterproof grease.
Once galled you should replace the clutch cone or it will tend to stick randomly, usually when your trying to anchor in a tight anchorage.
If disassembling a windlass on deck it's usually a good idea to get a box, like an empty beer box and cut the bottom so it just fits over the windlass. put it over the windlass to make sure no parts fall overboard disassembly.