Windlass Clutch Is Slipping

[bobs]

lately my windless is slipping , I tried to fasten the clutch but I dont seem to be able to pull the anchor up.Maybe the clutch is worne down or grease/dirt got into to it.
I really dont know, because it is impossible to get the drum off.
I've put a pulley puller to work, but its so tight i'm affraid to break the drum.
Here are some pics.
http://www.uploadarchief.net/files/d...20dsc03473.jpg

http://www.uploadarchief.net/files/d...20dsc03474.jpg

Any thoughts anyone ?

Thanks alot

[svstrider]

Just having done battle last week for two days in a confined space (aka chain locker) to remove my anchor winch (Simpson Lawrence Sprint 1500) I feel qualified to offer my 2d.

First off, visit the web & get internal drawings of parts of your winch. What brand is it? However, I think the general principles remain the same.

The rope drum should usually lift straight off the shaft to expose the upper half of the clutch that engages the chain gypsy when you tighten the top winch nut. This clutch half is held onto the shaft by two keyways. Your rope drum may have rusted / welded onto the upper clutch half which is secured by these keyways. Hence your immovable rope drum. The clutch halves are brass domes & will wear over time and need to be replaced if the gyspsy starts to slip under tension. If that slippage has been happening for a while and you have been overtightening the top nut, the rope drum could well have welded itself to the upper clutch dome.
If this is the case, you would be best to remove the entire winch including motor and go to a workshop to use a press. When my winch jammed because the main shaft bearing had got wet and rusted tight, it took 8tonnes of force to get the shaft out of the gear box.

Nigel Calder's book "Boat owners Manual" has a good section on anchor winches. No boat owner should be without that hefty tome on his floating shed IMHO

Good luck, dude.
PS I am off now to initiate some Pollywogs at a line crossing, just passing Karimata Islands off Kalimantan, Indonesia on a VERY slow rig tow to Cape Town.
Dr P

[bobs]

O boy, that doesn't sound good.
Now I know for sure only brutal force will get that winch going again.
I just hope I dont damage the rope drum.

But nevertheless , thank you very much for the input Paul.

Greetings

[s/v Jedi]

Try PB Blaster first. Give it a couple of days to work and put the gear puller on again. If that doesn't work, add heat: use heatgun (or propane torch) to heat up the drum. Whack the hot drum with a heavy plastic hammer (on top and sides) to help break it loose while keeping tension on with the puller. Put a good grease on the puller-threads, like copper-grease.

If that doesn't help... time to shop for a new one!

cheers,
Nick.

[bobs]

You know Nick, yesterday I already tried exactly everthing you summed up. I just dont like your last sentence

Maybe the manufacturer (lofrans Italy) will help me out , Ive sent them a email yesterday evening , hope they'll return me the favor.
It's an older model , (sailing yacht jeanneau 40DS is 10 year) and I could found the layout for it on their website.

[bobs]

Its seems the lofrance is not the manufacturer after all. There's no indication of the make to find anywhere on the windlass. I think i'm in trouble so to speek.

[svstrider]

Originally Posted by bobs

Its seems the lofrance is not the manufacturer after all. There's no indication of the make to find anywhere on the windlass. I think i'm in trouble so to speek.

You are going to have to do it any way. To fix it or to remove it for deep sixing - take it out and have a good look for a manufacturing name. Lofrans may still have made it as it is over 10 yrs old. The basic construction should be the same whatever the manufacturer. I still reckon the problem is just worn brass clutch cones and a rope drum welded / rusted on top of the upper cone. Take it out and take it to an engineering shop.
Lotsa luck.
PS think how much you will learn about anchor winches once you have sent the wife or kids into the anchor locker to do battle with the 10 year old nuts securing the bugger.
Remember your confined space safety rules. Rule #1 = send someone else down there.

[bobs]

Hi again Paul,

One thing about the confined space safety rule,.....my wife knows it too.

Man, i'm not looking forward to getting the winch off completely.
The boot is in drydock for the winter now , so I still have time to reflect.
In the meantime i'll try and find some ' brothers in arms ' who might give me the magical hint.

Thanks

[ragdoll]

lot of wd40, tap it on, wheel pull it off, about 150 times or so, it will loosen, clean and replace any worn parts then use a good bit of marine grease when going back together, will work fine

[bobs]

Hi ragdoll,

what exactly do mean by wheel pulling it off ?
Oh , and the WD40 is/was already applied.

Thanks

[s/v Jedi]

Bobs,

If you used WD40, you should really try PB Blaster. There's no comparison between these products for loosening parts. Leave the gear puller on with maximum tension, apply PB blaster and go home for at least a day. When you come back and the tension is still on, give it a whack on the side of the drum. I really think it will come off that way, but WD40 just isn't good enough for the job.

cheers,
Nick.

[neilpride]

Hi, Jedi is right, Pb blaster, Pb blaster!!! this stuf is magic, my Lofrans tigres have a similar problem with disimilar metals in the case body, stainless steel over aluminium , my last work in the windlass is to put a lot of tuff gel the white stuff in all the screws and parts in contact with the aluminium, Try Pb Blaster really , is a great stuff, cheers.