Which Fuel Filter

[Target9000]

We faced the problem of which filter to install too. We also have a Beta 38. The flow rating for the Racor styles seemed way overkill but I wanted the double filter system with the ability to switch filters on the fly. The only problem was the cost. It seemed insane to me how much Racor was getting for their setups.

I did a lot of research and found a company called Griffin that sold what basically looks like a knock of of the Racor filter setup for about half the cost. I'd never heard of them before so I called the company and had some really good customer service.



I found that the filters they use are interchangable with the Racor filters but they charge less for their filters. So far we've been really happy with our install.

No affiliation, just a happy customer that got off a lot cheaper than what Racor is charging.

[goboatingnow]

The Other competitor to Racor , is Separ Ive had good results with these in the past.

Dave

[captain58sailin]

I only use the electric pump to press up the system and fill the filter housing when I change elements, not for actual running, it is more of a precaution than a necessity. I just don't want any hiccups.

[Searanger50]

Thanks for all advice. I'm still trying to find a UK supplier of Griffin filters. Also considering the Racor 500 MA's.

[ErikFinn]

Originally Posted by Target9000

We faced the problem of which filter to install too. We also have a Beta 38. The flow rating for the Racor styles seemed way overkill but I wanted the double filter system with the ability to switch filters on the fly. The only problem was the cost. It seemed insane to me how much Racor was getting for their setups.

I did a lot of research and found a company called Griffin that sold what basically looks like a knock of of the Racor filter setup for about half the cost. I'd never heard of them before so I called the company and had some really good customer service.



I found that the filters they use are interchangable with the Racor filters but they charge less for their filters. So far we've been really happy with our install.

No affiliation, just a happy customer that got off a lot cheaper than what Racor is charging.

The Griffin looks like a direct copy of the Racor. Looked into their website
Griffin Group International Pte Ltd
and apparently they have offices in US, Singapore, Hong Kong and China.
Just wondering about the quality of the Griffin unit as I'm in a process of replacing my CAV filter/water separator with something like the Racor dual turbine, but the Racor price is about 800 - 1000 USD, or about 4 times more than the single unit model.
BTW, posted this new thread earlier today:
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...on-105458.html

[Sandero]

I had dual racors with a selector valve and one racor finally packed in and I removed it and have one. I thought it was a great convenience to have to transfer valve. But it was just not necessary. I plan on getting a new racor an popping it on when this one goes south. When it does I can bypass until new one is installed if need be. I don't see this as a problem.

Any comments?

[jeremiason]

Originally Posted by defjef

I had dual racors with a selector valve and one racor finally packed in and I removed it and have one. I thought it was a great convenience to have to transfer valve. But it was just not necessary. I plan on getting a new racor an popping it on when this one goes south. When it does I can bypass until new one is installed if need be. I don't see this as a problem.

Any comments?

It all depends on your style of sailing.... When I was fulltime cruising, I found that the only time my fuel filters failed was when I needed them...

Having a second filter allowed me to switch over an have the engine running again in less than a minute.

Not having a second filter means changing the filter underway, which usually fouls in heavy seas, when the fuel is sloshing around in the tanks. I for one don't want my head in the engine compartment under those conditions.

On the other hand if you are only sailing locally and normally in fair weather, you could probably spend the money elsewhere.

[Hudson Force]

I'm on the list with the others that use the dual Raycor 500 series. An additional choice is wether to use the filter elements rated at 2, 10 or 30 micron pore size. Too small a porosity can restrict the flow more than desirable. For my use, with my Yanmar 4JH3E, I do well with the 10 micron filter and running with only one of my Raycors open at a time. I've read advice that the 2 micron filters could "fuel starve" my engine.

[Sandero]

Originally Posted by jeremiason

It all depends on your style of sailing.... When I was fulltime cruising, I found that the only time my fuel filters failed was when I needed them...

Having a second filter allowed me to switch over an have the engine running again in less than a minute.

Not having a second filter means changing the filter underway, which usually fouls in heavy seas, when the fuel is sloshing around in the tanks. I for one don't want my head in the engine compartment under those conditions.

On the other hand if you are only sailing locally and normally in fair weather, you could probably spend the money elsewhere.

Yes and no. there certainly are tricks to changing and bleeding the air out of a fuel system... if you have it set up properly. My new approach is to not change the filter per se but have an entire second racor to replace the first and then deal with the filter replacement itself at a convenient time..turning this into a spare and wash, rinse and repeat. I never used the transfer valve. But it creates many more portential leak point with more filters and hoses and valves.

Less is more

[ErikFinn]

Originally Posted by captain58sailin

And low enough on the bulkhead, to where I can remove the filter element with out banging my hand, and allow me to pour diesel into the top if need be.

Originally Posted by Ziggy

If you can install the filter so it's a bit lower than the fuel tank, you won't need a priming pump, just a valve near the filter. Close the valve to change the cartridge, then open the valve slowly to refill the filter and prime the system.

I'm trying to find a good spot where to install my future dual turbine unit.
So what are the critical requirements for the installation? As this largely determines what size units I can buy.
Can I mount the units so that the tops are above the fuel tank? this would enable me to see the clear bowls easily. If I install lower it becomes much harder. The tank is mounted quite low so I definitely cant go below it, it is about 24 inches tall.
Erik
PS I'm looking at either the Racor 75900MAX30 - 900MA Series or the GRIFFIN GTB341DM-MA / G900DM-MA

[Ziggy]

Originally Posted by ErikFinn

I'm trying to find a good spot where to install my future dual turbine unit, Racor Parker is hopeless in replying, Griffin in Singapore isn't good either.
So what are the critical requirements for the installation? As this largely determines what size units I can buy.
Can I mount the units so that the tops are above the fuel tank? this would enable me to see the clear bowls easily. If I install lower it becomes much harder. The tank is mounted quite low so I definitely cant go below it, it is about 24 inches tall.
Erik
PS I'm looking at either the Racor 75900MAX30 - 900MA Series or the GRIFFIN GTB341DM-MA / G900DM-MA

You need enough room under the bowl to drain it, and enough room above the filter to change elements. Everything else is secondary. If the top of the filter is above the level of fuel in the fuel tank, then you probably will need to have an electric or manual priming pump. You can try priming it with the little manual lever on the engine mounted lift pump, but it will probably take a long time. In any case, a shut off valve just before the filter will minimize the amount of priming you will need to do.

[ErikFinn]

Originally Posted by Ziggy

You need enough room under the bowl to drain it, and enough room above the filter to change elements. Everything else is secondary. If the top of the filter is above the level of fuel in the fuel tank, then you probably will need to have an electric or manual priming pump. You can try priming it with the little manual lever on the engine mounted lift pump, but it will probably take a long time. In any case, a shut off valve just before the filter will minimize the amount of priming you will need to do.

How much space under the unit would you say is ok? enough to fit in something like coffee mug? (to get a good flavor to yr morning brew. no just kidding )

So if the filter unit's top is above the fuel level in the tank this would not give problems to the functioning of the filter when running the engine? Only issue might be when priming the system? How about the position in relation to the engine? (diesel pump in engine)

Only consideration about how high the unit is installed is to have enough space to pull out the element?

[donradcliffe]

I'm thoroughly pissed off at Racor, having just changed out a 30 year old 500 FG with a new one. First, they changed the thread on the inlet and outlet fittings, and I had to buy new ones--fortunately the yard had the new ones in stock and I didn't have to wait for fedex. Second, the new drain fitting design is going to be 10 times as hard to change the gaskets in as the old one.

I'd like about 10 minutes alone in a room with the bloke who made those decisions....

[Ziggy]

Originally Posted by ErikFinn

How much space under the unit would you say is ok? enough to fit in something like coffee mug? (to get a good flavor to yr morning brew. no just kidding )

Right. You want to fit a container there to catch the fuel and at the same time a wrench to open the drain cock. Actually, I put in a brass valve for draining that I can open without a wrench.

So if the filter unit's top is above the fuel level in the tank this would not give problems to the functioning of the filter when running the engine? Only issue might be when priming the system? How about the position in relation to the engine? (diesel pump in engine)

As long as you can prime it I think you'll be fine (unless it's many feet above the tank!)

Only consideration about how high the unit is installed is to have enough space to pull out the element?

Right.

[ErikFinn]

Originally Posted by Ziggy

Right. You want to fit a container there to catch the fuel and at the same time a wrench to open the drain cock. Actually, I put in a brass valve for draining that I can open without a wrench.

As long as you can prime it I think you'll be fine (unless it's many feet above the tank!)

Right.

Thanks for your info Ziggy!
Erik