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geoleo · 11-03-2017, 16:55

Had my salon cushions fabric redone recently. I now realize I should have the foam inside done too as they just aren't comfy with the old stuff inside. So just what id the best foam to put inside? they are 5 inches thick . I have heard somewhere that memory foam glued to a firmer thick foam works well.

**JPA Cate** · 11-03-2017, 17:03

Ours are plain firm polyurethane foam. Depends on the cushion covers, of course, some are designed to have additional support on the edges, like ergonomically designed furniture; some, like ours, are simple shapes, with no additional support. Any foam shop can help you, just take the covers with you.

Ann

Suijin · 11-03-2017, 17:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by geoleo

Had my salon cushions fabric redone recently. I now realize I should have the foam inside done too as they just aren't comfy with the old stuff inside. So just what id the best foam to put inside? they are 5 inches thick . I have heard somewhere that memory foam glued to a firmer thick foam works well.

That's an option. Honestly, I would call a canvas maker and ask them what they would use.

The world of foam is incredibly confusing, in terms of grades, firmness, types, etc. You want something firm enough to provide support while also being comfortable for long term sitting.

Whatever you do, buy your foam from a reputable source. I made the mistake of buying from from The House of Foam in Baltimore. I should have realized when I walked in and saw that they sold car stereo equipment and foam that I was in the wrong place. Foam retailers can be a bit of a scam, as they know that people like you and me can't tell one piece of foam from another.

Also, make sure you have the foam cut larger than the actual cushion size; the compression is what keeps the covers taut and well fitting.

jimbunyard · 11-03-2017, 23:30

The best place to get foam is from an upholstery supply house. The type you need is determined by two things, density and deflection, described below.

Density = The weight of one cubic foot of the foam. Density affects the foam's ability to provide support, comfort and durability. Generally, as foam density increases, durability also increases. Some of the factors related to durability are a loss of firmness (flex fatigue), breakdown in the seating area of the cushion (dishing), and fabric bagging caused by loss of foam dimensions (compression set).

ILD = Indentation Load Deflection, which is the measurement of the load bearing capacity of foam. ILD is typically measured as the force (in pounds) required to compress a sample of foam a certain amount. The higher the number, the more force required to compress the foam; therefore the firmer the foam.

As mentioned above, for seat cushions you need at least firm foam, which will be on the order of about 2 lbs per cubic foot and an ILD of about 45. The stuff isn't cheap, a piece 6" (the thickness you need for 5" cushions) x 24" x 80" will run 85.00-105.00 USD, but the high quality material will last many years.

This site,

https://www.dltcorporation.com/category_s/88.htm

is an example of the kind of outfit you want to be getting foam from. They have a lot of information for the uninitiated...

Stumble · 12-03-2017, 08:07

I do not understand foam all that much, but one thing I can suggest is to get reticulated foam. It is a normal foam that then has all of the walls blown open, which leaves it incapable of absorbing water. It is actually so open that you can pour water thru it. Meaning it dries in minutes not hours or days when it gets rained on.

rognvald · 12-03-2017, 08:27

Geo,
We bought our cushion material from a wholesaler in Miami. We told him what we wanted and we tried several types of foam in re: density, comfort, material, etc., and chose the one we felt was the most durable and comfortable. These cushions are now over 17 years old and still comfortable and in good serviceable condition(10 of the last 17 years we lived aboard full-time). Comfort is a personal issue and it is important you make the choice based upon your parameters. Also, if you deal with a wholesaler, you have the potential to make a cash deal that could potentially save you a significant amount of money. Hope this helps. Best, Rognvald

Cheechako · 12-03-2017, 08:51

I agree with Ann that having some contour can make cushions a lot more comfy. Some setee designs with flat cushions just make you feel like you are slipping off the seat. Good quality foam is much better than real cheap stuff, but at 5" you should be pretty decent. Firmness is a matter of taste. I prefer the feel of latex foam but it is more expensive and good non latex can be fine if fairly firm but not too firm.

CatboatWilly · 12-03-2017, 10:01

Here is a great article to read about cushion foam and a good place to buy it. Read them before proceeding.

The unbelievably complicated world of boat cushions | Sundowner Sails Again

Purchasing;

Foam Factory, Inc.

Bill

GreatLakesCapt · 12-03-2017, 10:13

Go to an upholstery shop, request HR foam (high resiliency) and be sure to have it wrapped with "fibercoil" (sometimes called dacron though it's not). The fibercoil is a white insulation-like material about an inch thick and comes in rolls. It protects the foam from direct friction with the fabric which will cause it to breakdown and the wrap also adds a nice crown to the foam and helps fill the cushion completely. I was an upholsterer for many years and this is my suggestion based on experience.

skipgundlach · 12-03-2017, 10:20

We replaced our original cushions (35 years old at the time - known to be original by the magic marker on them listing them as for 461-2, our hull # on our 461 - we assumed they had reached their end-of-life) when we redid the covers professionally.

We wish we hadn't. Despite getting what we thought to be a very dense foam, in 2 years, the places we sit on 4" foam is now bottomed (pardon the expression) out.

One trick we did, which we very much like, and the density isn't in any way critical, is to have made our backs 1" at the top and 4" at the bottom instead of full straight boxes.

That little bit of lean (unless your seating already has that lean) improved the comfort immensely. Corners are a bit fiddly (either 45° angles at the ends or the tops staggered to overlap) but triangular cross section foam is a standard product so doesn't need carving.

Trying to assess firmness with a small block is futile. Get a sizable block of whatever you think is what you want, sit on it/them for an extended test period and choose the firmest you can stand; it's not going to get firmer, regardless of what it's made from...

Scaramanga F25 · 12-03-2017, 10:45

You will want cushions that you sit on to be firmer than the ones you sleep on.

CarlF · 12-03-2017, 13:00

I've had good luck with FoambyMail. Free shipping over $75. Get the higher quality HQ foams that I assume last longer.

What they call HD36 is a good middle for both sitting and sleeping. If only sitting, I like the LUX better but I like firm cushions.

I have also used two layers with Lux on the bottom and HD36 on top. The H36 felt soft but the firmer Lux keeps you from "bottoming out"

On the top put 1" of batting (fiberfill) to make the cushion plump. If you like even softer put a 1" layer of Supersoft foam under the batting.

You could experiment by ordering $75 of different foams to get the free shipping and try them out in one cushion

Thinner pieces are easier to cut. Just glue together with spray adhesive

Seat & Cushion Foam Types - Poly, Lux, Super Soft & Dryfast Foam

Cheechako · 12-03-2017, 13:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stumble

I do not understand foam all that much, but one thing I can suggest is to get reticulated foam. It is a normal foam that then has all of the walls blown open, which leaves it incapable of absorbing water. It is actually so open that you can pour water thru it. Meaning it dries in minutes not hours or days when it gets rained on.

Seems like the opposite of what you want to me. Closed cell foam will only absorb on the outer part as the water is blocked from getting further in. Open cell gets totally wet throughout and holds it quite well... like a sponge.
" which leaves it incapable of absorbing water. It is actually so open that you can pour water thru it."
This makes no sense? it's the ability to pass water thru that = "absorbs". The rubber/poly/latex material doesn't absorb much, it's the open space that absorbs.... ?