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Old 10-12-2018, 21:30   #1
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West Systems equivalent to Bote Cote?

I've started work on a Michael Storer design outrigger sailing canoe.

It's stitch-and-glue construction - plywood and fiberglass.

I've just started rough-cutting the panels, so I'm going to be applying epoxy in a vet few weeks.

Storer's instructions say:

Quote:
The boat should be glued with a high solids epoxy system such as Bote Cote, or other quality marine resin system.
I'm planning on using West Systems products because it's widely used, so there are a lot of prior won have experience with it, it has a good reputation, and because there's a West Marine down the road, so I can avoid the cost and hassle of shipping epoxy.

Am I correct in thinking that West Systems is a "high solids epoxy system" like Bote Cote?

Anyone have good advice for resources to tell me get started? I've not worked in fiberglass before, and plan on doing some experiments on scrap, before I touch the actual boat parts.

(And have a couple of spare sheets of ply, for my inevitable screw-ups.)
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Old 10-12-2018, 22:34   #2
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Re: West Systems equivalent to Bote Cote?

I'm not expert enough to offer advice about which epoxy to use from a technical point of view, but many folks report that Bote Cote is far less of a skin reaction or sensitization problem than West or any of the other standard epoxies.

And do understand that West Marine and West System Epoxy are not related companies. West marine is a general chandler and West System manufactures and licenses manufacture of epoxy and other materials. It is quite likely that West Marine can get Bote Cote products for you if you wish to go that way.

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Old 10-12-2018, 22:58   #3
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Re: West Systems equivalent to Bote Cote?

West System will be fine, but I'd expect you could get Bote Cote cheaper.

For gluing you need to add a thickening powder. Cabosil or similar fumed silica powder is generally used to make glue.

For glassing, straight West or Bote Cote is fine.

Uncured epoxy can cause something like an allergic reaction in some people. The effects can be cumulative, so even if you're not affected initially, continuous contact could bring it on.

The best approach is to completely eliminate direct contact. Wear gloves, use barrier cream on your arms, (I sometimes get a rash where I contact my wrist with epoxy wet gloves when rrmoving them. Barrier cream prevents this) protective glasses and a decent quality respirator.

Other than that I've always found epoxy very easy to work with.
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Old 10-12-2018, 23:44   #4
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Re: West Systems equivalent to Bote Cote?

West System may be a bit more expensive but it's certainly applicable to the use.

Look on their website as they have lots of great how-to info freely available.
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Old 11-12-2018, 00:18   #5
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Re: West Systems equivalent to Bote Cote?

Maybe some advice here?


https://www.storerboatplans.com/faq-...cpes-everdure/
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Old 11-12-2018, 01:34   #6
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Re: West Systems equivalent to Bote Cote?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdege View Post
I've started work on a Michael Storer design outrigger sailing canoe.
....................
Am I correct in thinking that West Systems is a "high solids epoxy system" like Bote Cote?
...........
You are correct!

And while there some differences in using either, both will do the job. I personally prefer Bote Cote but I'm happy to use West.
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Old 11-12-2018, 04:57   #7
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Re: West Systems equivalent to Bote Cote?

Go to the Chesapeake Light Craft website, clcboats.com, click on builder's tips. They have a very good series of videos on stitch and glue construction. The stitch and glue I have done, the panels are wired together, (stitched), then a fillet is applied along the seam, wires removed, and the hull glassed. Very short version.
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Old 11-12-2018, 09:19   #8
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Re: West Systems equivalent to Bote Cote?

In addition to having a good website with product info, West System has a technical support call number (which you can find on their website). I've used it a few times on a prior project. They were very helpful.
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Old 11-12-2018, 11:21   #9
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Re: West Systems equivalent to Bote Cote?

With out a doubt west systems are great, but there are others and you can cut your expensives alot, even including shipping. clark craft has materials and a very good epoxy glue. west systems blush and some other do not, mixing is important and there are all types of proportions, also types of hardners to deal with temperatures. I would recomend epoxy glue vs. adding a thickener. A good place is boat builders supply in vero beach fl. very good prices and has excellent products. When mixing add hardner first to the container , stir for2minutes but avoid air bubbles. clean up with soap and water.
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Old 11-12-2018, 16:30   #10
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Re: West Systems equivalent to Bote Cote?

It could be worth looking at this website B&B Yacht Designs | Graham's designs are all stitch and glue and he has sourced a good epoxy, although I used Bote Cote here in Australia. BandB are good people to know and will be very helpful. Located in NC (under snow right now I guess).
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Old 11-12-2018, 18:05   #11
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Re: West Systems equivalent to Bote Cote?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Z View Post
With out a doubt west systems are great, but there are others and you can cut your expensives alot, even including shipping.
I'm only building a 16-foot canoe, so cost of materials isn't my main concern.
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Old 11-12-2018, 18:29   #12
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Re: West Systems equivalent to Bote Cote?

Quote:
Originally Posted by keepondancin View Post
Go to the Chesapeake Light Craft website, clcboats.com, click on builder's tips. They have a very good series of videos on stitch and glue construction. The stitch and glue I have done, the panels are wired together, (stitched), then a fillet is applied along the seam, wires removed, and the hull glassed. Very short version.
Better if you can glass before the glue fillet has cured. "Wet on wet". Makes for very good bonding between the glue and the glass, and generally a better finish. Also saves sanding the fillet before glassing it.

Also look into peel ply. Its a lightweight polyester taffeta cloth, that can be put on epoxy before it cures. Peel off after curing removes all blush and gloss, leaves a nice clean textured surface ready for further glassing or fairing.
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Old 11-12-2018, 18:36   #13
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Re: West Systems equivalent to Bote Cote?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdege View Post
I've started work on a Michael Storer design outrigger sailing canoe.

It's stitch-and-glue construction - plywood and fiberglass.

I've just started rough-cutting the panels, so I'm going to be applying epoxy in a vet few weeks.

Storer's instructions say:



I'm planning on using West Systems products because it's widely used, so there are a lot of prior won have experience with it, it has a good reputation, and because there's a West Marine down the road, so I can avoid the cost and hassle of shipping epoxy.

Am I correct in thinking that West Systems is a "high solids epoxy system" like Bote Cote?

Anyone have good advice for resources to tell me get started? I've not worked in fiberglass before, and plan on doing some experiments on scrap, before I touch the actual boat parts.

(And have a couple of spare sheets of ply, for my inevitable screw-ups.)
Everything you need to build stitch and glue with epoxy is here: http://ptwatercraft.com/ptwatercraft/EPOXY_BASICS.html
And yes, West is high solids.
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Old 11-12-2018, 19:00   #14
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Re: West Systems equivalent to Bote Cote?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 44'cruisingcat View Post
Better if you can glass before the glue fillet has cured. "Wet on wet". Makes for very good bonding between the glue and the glass, and generally a better finish. Also saves sanding the fillet before glassing it.
Storer's advice is to apply epoxy to the panels, flat, before they've been stitched, except for 25mm along the edges, where the fillets and tape will later be placed.

Makes sense to me.
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Old 11-12-2018, 20:14   #15
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Re: West Systems equivalent to Bote Cote?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdege View Post
Storer's advice is to apply epoxy to the panels, flat, before they've been stitched, except for 25mm along the edges, where the fillets and tape will later be placed.

Makes sense to me.
Except that it is kind of difficult to so precisely cut the cloth and apply the resin without slopping over to the edges. Far easier to glass the whole panel before stiching, then cut the excess with a razor knife. The result is a very clean panel. Again, I strongly suggest the book I reference above.
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