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**s/v Jedi** · 30-07-2009, 20:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by Extemporaneous

Could this be the "secret acid stuff"?
AvestaWelding Website - Pickling paste and pickling gel

Extemp.

gee, gosh... you found it ;-)

It's not the same brand I've seen but looking at the photo on that page it sure is the same thing. I have seen that stuff wipe away that blueish color too, this is it!

cheers,
Nick.

geraldbasford · 05-08-2009, 13:42

I'm a retired welder after 40 years so you won't think I'm blowing smoke.Did you mention type of weld made heliarch or tig by that I mean tungsten inert gas process. Actually if you can keep a golden color while welding that is a good thing. That tells you your are not putting in to much heat.On the other hand stick welding is more difficult to keep heat under control.From your discription I don;t think you don't have a problem at all. Anything within the rainbow spectrum is acceptable.You can buff the discoloration out with a stainless steel buffing wheel. Don't use a steel brush or the weld will be contaminated and show rust.If a visual inspection reveals no evident cracks you got clesr sailing.

Extemporaneous · 08-08-2009, 08:42

Thanks all.
I think I'm okay.

Does anyone have any polishing guidance with polishing pastes.
I know I should start with the coarsest paste and work down but ...
I'm not sure as the wheel (which I will put the paste on) speeds?
Slow? Fast? Changes as your abrasiveness changes?

Thanks,
Extemp.

Charlie · 08-08-2009, 09:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by Christian Van H

Will you marry me?

Quote:

Originally Posted by imagine2frolic

ROFLMAO, That was kind of like my thought when I read her post. My problem being one is more than enough for me. 2 would be my DEATH!.........i2f

I agree with both of these posts. ROFLMAO

geraldbasford · 08-08-2009, 09:05

I think If you go to a welding supply like airgas or one of your bigger suppliers they will help you pick out the right wheel. I not up on that but almost think a paste will not be needed with all the new types of wheels out.I will be anxious to fallow your thread and see the input. have a friend that does stainless food service fabrication.I will definately talk to him and maybe get his number. I know he has the answersbecause thats his work expertise.

imagine2frolic · 08-08-2009, 09:06

You can go into a welding supply house, and get those questions answered if anjou doesn't have the answer

......i2f

**David M** · 08-08-2009, 09:32

New avatar for anjou?

anjou · 08-08-2009, 09:35

[quote=imagine2frolic;314747]You can go into a welding supply house, and get those questions answered if anjou doesn't have the answer

......i2f[/quoingte]

Nope, I draw a blank when it comes tothe finer points of polishing stainless.Anyway, both you and Christian are already married,............unfortunately.

**David M** · 08-08-2009, 09:39

Awww....that was sweet anjou.

Charlie · 08-08-2009, 09:40

[quote=anjou;314765]

Quote:

Originally Posted by imagine2frolic

You can go into a welding supply house, and get those questions answered if anjou doesn't have the answer

......i2f[/quoingte]

Nope, I draw a blank when it comes tothe finer points of polishing stainless.Anyway, both you and Christian are already married,............unfortunately.

Aww I feel left out. LOL

geraldbasford · 08-08-2009, 09:41

Hey lady thats a big oxidizing flame you got there.I think you need a little more oxygen there.With a smile like that who cares.

geraldbasford · 08-08-2009, 09:44

Is that a cutting torch or a club.

**s/v Jedi** · 08-08-2009, 10:02

I just bought some polishing wheels and compound (not paste) at the Home Depot. They sell two different grades of discs (harder for cleaning and softer for polishing). The compound is like a stick; you push it onto the wheel (while it turns) to transfer some. The compound comes in about 5 or 6 grades.

If you have a weld on polished stainless steel, I still think it's best to first passivate the weld with those specialized acids, wash thoroughly and polish the weld with the softer wheel and a fine compound after that (further passivating the weld).

If you have un-polished stainless you need to sand first, all the way up to 1500 grit. Next you start with the harder wheel and course compound, working your way up to the soft wheel and fine compound.

Just experiment with the speed of the wheel. They are normally used in bench grinders so find out their speed and start there.

You have the same stuff in miniature for the dremel. They also have an attachment for the Fein Multimaster which would be great for flat surfaces.

cheers,
Nick.

geraldbasford · 08-08-2009, 10:31

I think Nick is right on. I know it is alot of work a step at a time.But the resuts are worth it.Of all the alloys Stainless steel is my favorite and especially so since I got into boating.