VP MD2030-D glow plugs replacement issue

[psousa]

Hi all!

After long time having cold-start issues, decided to learn about and DIY glow plugs test and replace.

So, removed 2 of them, tested it's resistence (both failed) and tested them by direct connect to a battery (both failed too, as expected).
The 3rd one is blocked by something related with the injection system (see the picture). This part have a hose connecting to the top of the diesel filter and, in the other side, to the injectors, so I suppose it is the injection pump or something. I'm affraid to be messing around with this part. The only thing I touch in diesel circuit are the both filters (to replace them).

Any way, I've tested this particular glow plug resistence in it's place and failed too, so I would like to replace it too, but I'm affraid.

So, what do you suggest:
1. leave this glow plug untouchable (even knowing it's not working) and replace the other 2 only
2. disconnect that diesel circuit hose and try to remove it and pray to be enough to remove the glow plug (I'm not sure... there is a possibility to continue to be blocked by the hose connection too and I don't know if I can rotate that small 'head' which host the hose connection).

If I decide to disconnect the hose, I will introduce air in the injection circuit AFTER the oil filter and BEFORE the injection. How can we remove this air from circuit? By pumping diesel to circuit using the small pump near the diesel filter (as we do when changing the filter)? Will the air introduced AFTER the diesel filter leave the circuit by doing this procedure?

PS: when I remove glow plugs, they are coal/black dust covered... is it normal?

Many thanks!

[psousa]

[jimbunyard]

If you're really uncomfortable trying to remove the final glow plug, then replace the two that you can, try to start the engine and see if the results are satisfactory enough.

However, you shouldn't be afraid to break the fuel systems' air tight integrity, there's really very little difference (in bleeding procedure at least) in loosening that banjo bolt and turning it, or removing the banjo bolt entirely, as may likely be the case.

The banjo bolt will turn if you just loosen it a little, it may give you enough clearance to remove the glowplug. There are copper washers on all sides of the banjos (there is a return banjo and a feed banjo, for what, if memory serves, is a total of three). To do the job 'properly' you should replace them when the fittings are loosened; I typically reuse them. If they don't leak, they're good. You should have some spares on board anyway, just in case...

If you can get the glowplug out with just loosening the fitting, it is be possible that the engine will start without bleeding, and the small amount of air will work itself out through the system. It might even be possible if you have to remove the fittings, these little engines are very forgiving.

After fitting everything back up (don't overtighten), try it and see if she starts.

If not, there is a little lever on the lift pump that can be used to reprime the system, or you can use a squeeze bulb like those found on outboards, ar you can get a electric fuel pump from an autoparts store to speed things up. Any generic gas pump will work fine. Many people just leave them plumbed in to aid in filter changes and such. I just use a squeeze bulb, left plumbed in line after the tank but before the primary filter.

The one thing you need to be careful about is cleanliness, especially if you have to remove the banjo fittings. Clean the area well before you start, some WD40 or similar and compressed air is a good thing if you have it, otherwise a toothbrush or somesuch and diesel are good. Since the fittings are after the filters, there is a possibility of introducing dirt, which injection pumps really don't like. With a little care you shouldn't have a problem though; it is a common thing to do.

The black soot on the un-heating glowplugs is normal.

It is also important for quick starts to have fully charged batteries and good clean, corrosion free connections on all terminals and between all grounding surfaces. Any place that is deficient in these points can result in slower than normal cranking speeds and thus slow starting.

[psousa]

Thank you for valuable tips.

You refers to "copper washers". I think they are 42 and 22 on this exploded schema: https://www.marinepartseurope.com/en...0-23-2421.aspx

On the 22 says it's out of production and it's included on the injection pump kit. Do you know a replacement part nr? Just to buy some before remove the banjo and take it to the store.

Thank you

[jimbunyard]

42 and 22 are the ones. I don't know of a Volvo replacement, but the base engine is a Perkins/ISM 103 series, very common. Any injection pump shop should have the washers, you might have to bring them with you to match them up. Depends on the expertise of the people at the shop...

[psousa]

For future reference, here is the part. And yes, they still come labeled "Perkins 12v 185366190", like the original, plus the reference "322415".

35 eur + VAT each.

Today night I'll change 2.
If I need, I 'll change the 3rd one. If cold start runs well, I'll not take the risk of getting dust/green paint into the fuel injection pump by changing the 3rd one.

[jimbunyard]

Too late now, but there are many alternatives to Volvo, neither VP nor Perkins actually make them. For instance, Bosch 80020, Champion CH242, Delphi HDS272 will all work for about half price, plus off the shelf availability at your local auto parts store. Good for future reference though, too.

[psousa]

Changed 2 glow plugs few minutes ago. 8 seconds on the switch and boom! Like a charm
Keep the 3rd one as spare part.

jimbunyard, thanks for the tips!