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Old 15-04-2024, 18:14   #1
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Vinylester

Any Vinylester experts out there.

My old Jenneau, with a Vinylester hull, is due for a sodablasting to remove the built up old paint. What’s the best solution to protect the hull once the paint has been removed? The Vinylester precluded the need for a barrier coat.

TIA!
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Old 16-04-2024, 02:33   #2
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Re: Vinylester

Not an expert, in anything.
Epoxy is a better moisture barrier, in all regards, than Vinylester, and [both are] far better, than Polyester. The only problem, with epoxy, is UV.
Epoxy will stick to Vinylester, better than Vinylester will stick to itself.

Here’s an interesting ‘old’ [2004] article:
“Fiberglass blisters and barrier coats” ~ by by Steve C. D’Antonio
https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/w...nd-Osmosis.pdf
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Old 16-04-2024, 02:44   #3
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Re: Vinylester

If the hull is fair after blasting, you can't do better than 545 epoxy primer.
If it needs fairing, you can't do better than 545, followed by Awl-fair epoxy fairing compound, followed by 545.
None of this is for blister prevention, since you don't need that--it's for a nice finish.
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Old 16-04-2024, 03:52   #4
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Re: Vinylester

The fiberglass expert that repaired my cat outstanding and who was instructing and supervising me on the Restauration of the hulls with vinylester recommends the follow:
1) on vinylester you don‘t need osmosis protection but it’s good to have a separation barrier for whatever antifouling you put on. That’s also sealing any mistakes you or whoever done something would have made where maybe water could get through to core (eg. Capilar effect), means that’s the point where you remove latest all your through-hulls then paint with 2) and install new ones before light primer.
2) he recommended and I used Hempel Majestic Thick epoxy primer 2 layers rolled on, first layer late afternoon, 2nd layer in the next morning without sanding. That’s your separation and sealing barrier and no water can penetrate that. Look at drying times in your location, the chemical bond between layers is stronger, you have more thickness and you save a lot time and money not to sand inbetween.
3) on top of that without sanding another 6h later 2 layers of light primer in different colors, that’s your antifouling primer and working surface primer means if you sand or blast your antifouling away and the yellow color comes through you know you are at the primer but some spots you need to even out so get to eg blue and know he need to stop soon. When the first spots of gray come out stop, that’s max even you get or have to stop blasting.
Instead Hempel light primer you can use what’s recommended as primer for the antifouling of your choice.

I used Coopercoat. be aware that Coopercoat is water based epoxy that let water slowly penetrate it. Coppercoat works by water dissolving the top 1/100mm layer of the epoxy to expose new copper and that layer by layer over the years. So you need a watertide epoxy barrier before applying it.
Know 2 boats where coppercoat was applied onto new boat without a barrier coat and 6 years later both got osmosis.
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Old 16-04-2024, 04:33   #5
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Re: Vinylester

Quote:
Originally Posted by bad1129 View Post
Any Vinylester experts out there.

My old Jenneau, with a Vinylester hull,....

TIA!
absolutely sure? How do you know? (Seeing as you spell the brand incorrectly maybe you are in error as to the resin used too...Could it just be isophtalic polyester resin? Or maybe Orthophtalic with just the external lay iso-resin, as was done often?)
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