Turbine HVLP Systems

[shamrock]

Has anyone had success using these to spray 2 part polyurethane?

They appear to be the best solution for remote jobs, not having to set up a big compressor and air filters.

Any thoughts/experiences would be appreciated. Also, any recommended manufacturers?

Thanks.

[goboatingnow]

Big problem spraying LPU is the bloody environmental vac suit you end up needing. I've sprayed with HVLP ( a German unit beginning with K , compressor was a turbine unit ) I've sprayed with conventional high pressure. I'm equally fairly crap with both actually !!

Dave

[minaret]

For LPU, it's conventional all the way. Even though it's not legal in some places. Much easier to get a peel free finish that way...

[shamrock]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

Big problem spraying LPU is the bloody environmental vac suit you end up needing. I've sprayed with HVLP ( a German unit beginning with K , compressor was a turbine unit ) I've sprayed with conventional high pressure. I'm equally fairly crap with both actually !!

Dave

Can't you just wear a tyvek suite and organic respirator? I plan on spraying outside and using HVLP cuts down overspray significantly

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by shamrock

Can't you just wear a tyvek suite and organic respirator? I plan on spraying outside and using HVLP cuts down overspray significantly

Your supposed to have a full positive pressure face mask and sealed suit.

Dave

[steamgoat]

The OP's question asks about 'two part poly' So this is not necessarily LPU [Awlgrip ] It could also be Acrilic Urethane [awlcraft 2000 or Imron]
Minaret,I always read, and believe you advice, but, whats the problem spraying acrilic urethane with HVLP ? It is common use for autos and they also dont want orange peel. Just curious, Bruce.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by steamgoat

The OP's question asks about 'two part poly' So this is not necessarily LPU [Awlgrip ] It could also be Acrilic Urethane [awlcraft 2000 or Imron]
Minaret,I always read, and believe you advice, but, whats the problem spraying acrilic urethane with HVLP ? It is common use for autos and they also dont want orange peel. Just curious, Bruce.

Having shot a lot of both with both systems, that's just the opinion I've formed. It's certainly not impossible to get a good finish with HVLP systems, turbine or otherwise, I just find it much easier to get a truly exceptional finish with conventional gear. Just don't tell the EPA, please.

I find when I am forced to shoot with an HVLP rig I tune it so it's not HVLP anymore. Read up on suggested air cap and pot pressures for shooting Awlgrip and you may see why. You want to dial the air cap pressure way up to provide a very fine film. Over the recommended numbers even. That's what works for me, and I think you may have seen some pics of the finish we achieve this way. Of course it does dramatically increase overspray, which in turn increases wastage and need for safety gear, as well as masking and filtered air control. This is one of the differences between a pro job and an amateur one, we have the infrastructure to do it right. For the average person it would be prohibitively expensive to use this sort of arrangement, and you would have a very difficult time doing it this way in most yards without being kicked out or fined by the EPA.

Please don't compare the auto guys. I would be fired on the spot if I produced a finish similar to most modern cars. Way too much peel. People don't pay 20-30k for a finish unless they expect perfect. Most auto painters are neanderthals compared to what we do.

[shamrock]

Originally Posted by steamgoat

The OP's question asks about 'two part poly' So this is not necessarily LPU [Awlgrip ] It could also be Acrilic Urethane [awlcraft 2000 or Imron]
Minaret,I always read, and believe you advice, but, whats the problem spraying acrilic urethane with HVLP ? It is common use for autos and they also dont want orange peel. Just curious, Bruce.

If I wind up spraying, I was planning on using Awlcraft as I understand repairs can be done.

I also understand that spraying or roll and tip outside won't be perfect, but if I can get close to what comes out of a good auto body shop, I'll be very happy

[shamrock]

Originally Posted by minaret

Having shot a lot of both with both systems, that's just the opinion I've formed. It's certainly not impossible to get a good finish with HVLP systems, turbine or otherwise, I just find it much easier to get a truly exceptional finish with conventional gear. Just don't tell the EPA, please.

I find when I am forced to shoot with an HVLP rig I tune it so it's not HVLP anymore. Read up on suggested air cap and pot pressures for shooting Awlgrip and you may see why. You want to dial the air cap pressure way up to provide a very fine film. Over the recommended numbers even. That's what works for me, and I think you may have seen some pics of the finish we achieve this way. Of course it does dramatically increase overspray, which in turn increases wastage and need for safety gear, as well as masking and filtered air control. This is one of the differences between a pro job and an amateur one, we have the infrastructure to do it right. For the average person it would be prohibitively expensive to use this sort of arrangement, and you would have a very difficult time doing it this way in most yards without being kicked out or fined by the EPA.

Please don't compare the auto guys. I would be fired on the spot if I produced a finish similar to most modern cars. Way too much peel. People don't pay 20-30k for a finish unless they expect perfect. Most auto painters are neanderthals compared to what we do.

Thanks for the information!