Topping Lift

[Abrain]

The details:

• A wooden boom and mast.
• The main will be loose footed with a block and tackle boom vang.
• Cutter rigged.
• No boom gallows.

I need a new topping lift as the old one is worn out. The old topping lift is made of stainless wire with a plastic coating and an eye at each end. One end attaches to the masthead with a shackle and the other eye is about 3 feet above the boom holding a block. A cheek block is on the boom with 3/8" double braid terminated to a cleat.

Would there be any issues with simply removing all the current topping lift rigging and relocate it to the mast. I would rig a block on the mast head and a boom bail on the boom. Splicing an eye to the boom bail with double braid would complete the rig. I could cleat the double braid to the mast.

This allows me to have more room on the boom for reefing and replaces the worn out topping lift.

Why does the topping lift need to be stainless wire? How could the plastic on the old rig chafe out?

[Tripod]

No reason you couldn't adjust and cleat at the mast, but you may want to duplicate the tackle at the mast or it may be difficult to lift the boom. The only issue I can see with what you propose is the line (and block) may slap the mast, possibly causing damage to the finish on the mast.

[Abrain]

Damn! Tripod you are correct! I did not think about the mast smacking! Back to the drawing board...

[Sailmonkey]

There is no reason the topping lift needs to be wire. We switched to spectra topping lifts. A plus is they look like wire!


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[Cheechako]

No problem with soft or wire topping lift, or with adjustment at the mast. Having had several setups.. I prefer what you currently have. I find that the TL needs no adjustment really once you find the right setting. When the main is hoisted the T-lift is slack... but not too much so.

[Suijin]

I would definitely switch to dyneema for your topping lift. Less weight, chafe on the sail, windage. Only issue is UV resistance and lifetime cost vs. coated wire or double braid. I would steer clear of coated wire if you can because it's heavy and the coating can promote and conceal corrosion in the wire.

If the current set-up makes reefing difficult, you can move the cleat farther forward on the boom (if that helps) although if you move it far enough you may need to increase the purchase as you'll no longer be able to lift the boom with one hand while you tighten and cleat off.

[Orion Jim]

I replaced my wire topping lift several years ago with Amsteel which is a Dyneema line. It doesn't chafe the sail, well not that I've noticed yet, it weighs almost nothing, it's easily spliced and holds tight to a thimble. I heartily recommend it. I chose to keep the adjustment on the boom rather than have the extra line running down the mast but a lot of the old timers swear that the adjustment should always be at the mast. I think that's a holdover from the gaff rig. Dump the wire, you'll be glad you did.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Abrain

.........
Would there be any issues with simply removing all the current topping lift rigging and relocate it to the mast. I would rig a block on the mast head and a boom bail on the boom. Splicing an eye to the boom bail with double braid would complete the rig. I could cleat the double braid to the mast. .......

IMO, nothing wrong with this solution.

FWIW, this is the setup I have always used on 3 boats about the same size as yours. I am using 5/16" double braid polyester. Although I'm sure others could find a more "advanced" solution

[El Pinguino]

Mine is just the way it came.... 39 foot boat with a boom to suit...
Topping lift is single part double braid... up the inside of the mast ...

Cleated off at the mast... I have never felt the need for any blocks/mechanical advantage.
Rarely touch it... set up so boom doesnt land on my head when main is lowered but is slack when sailing.

[roverhi]

Switched to a Dyneema topping lift. Light weight, strong, does not tear up the leech of the main. Only problem is I went with a small diameter line that sings like a guitar string in winds over 10k. Would use something around 3/16" to keep the noise down. The topping lift ends with a small fiddle block with becket. There is a block with becket attached to a bail on the end of the boom. Use 1/4" double braid on this three part tackle. Easy to adjust, no hardware on the boom other than the bail. Used this Harken Fiddle block with jam cleat on the lift and a matching block with becket on the boom. Harken

[delmarrey]

My topping lift runs from boom end, to mast head, thru several blocks and to the cockpit. It's 7/16" - 120' long. I just used the cheapest braded line I could find. All it does is hold up the boom. The boom with sail on it probably only weighs 100 lb. The line is rated at 1200 lb.
And if that goes, there's the lazy jacks.

[Cheechako]

If I was going soft, I'd just use halyard or sheet line. Something easy on the hands. As Del says, it doesn't have to be super big to do the job, just easy to use. On a WS32 I'd probably go 5/16 or 3/8 or so. Many booms have unused sheaves on the end.. does yours? You can retain the 2 part block above the boom, go to the end and run it inside the boom with an exit/cleat near the mast.

[UNCIVILIZED]

Since you're tinkering with things a bit, I hope that you don't mind if I play Devil's Advocate, and throw a couple of ideas out there.

As far as line material, yep, Spectra's the way to go. At the size you'll need, it's; strong, slippery (read MAJORLY UV resistant, ditto on chafe resistance), & fairly inexpensive.

While in theory, a topping lift only needs to be strong enough to support the boom (and mainsail's) weight, in my experience anyway, it also needs to be strong enough to handle someone falling onto the boom as the boat takes an odd bounce or three from a wave(s). Especially once in a while when reefing, regardless of one's reefing setup type.

For a neat trick, that'll let you retain your 2:1 purchase, in addition to making it adjustable at both ends, you could:
Splice an eye into the Spectra above the rear end of the boom, & hang a small block there. Then run a piece of double braid from one side of the boom (where it'd be attached to a micro padeye), through said block, & to a cleat on the opposite side of the boom.
Followed by (on the Spectra portion) having said line going up to the masthead, through another small'ish block. And down almost to the deck, where you splice in an eye for a small block at this terminal end also. Where, at the deck, there's a small 2:1 setup akin to the one at the boom's outboard end.

Thus you wind up with a topping lift which is adjustable at both ends. Something which can come in rather handy at times (and, all in all, built for not too much coin).

Or, option B, would be to run say, a piece of 1/4" Amsteel Blue, from the boom's Clew end (where a shackle's spliced on), up to the masthead, through a substantial block, & down to a 2:1 purchase at the deck, or leave it long enough to reach a winch on deck.
Then you'd have an emergency, back up, mainsail halyard (albeit, possibly with a bit o' tinkering required). Though, a bit of cover would need to be sleeved onto, & properly secured to, the tail end of the Amsteel (depending upon your setup). But that's an easy 5min. job.
Also, a nice rig, on the cheap given it's features (used bronze & stainless headboard shackles are like a couple of $).

Plan C's to buy a quality, pre-loved, rigid vang. They come up for sale quite often, in a number of places. And offer support almost akin to a gallows, when properly fitted & attached.

[Sailingcouple13]

Don't under size your topping lift. There is a great deal more load than the weight. I am sure once your sail is down you pull hard on the main sheet to tighten and keep it from swaying back and forth. Also if you sail with head sail only load is shared with back stay, if you have one.

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[Hoofsmit]

Hi,
just my 2cents worth, but during my various courses we used the TL to scandalise the main, handy for doing mad things like man overboard and picking up mooring buoys under sail,
it was always used when the main was dropped or hoisted as it needed adjustment to allow trim, so it was always led aft to the cockpit for easy use and was at least as big as any halyards


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