To Gel or Not to Gel - That Is the Question

[Solitude]

Just flipped back to the pics... So your getting ready for the deck?

If your pulling the toerails off (wooden?) you may want to look at the hull to deck joint. I don't know how its built but if not glassed in its a good time to reseal it.

When you say rotten core is that under the deck? Have you got access from under? Is it ply or balsa?

[Fishman_Tx]

Re:
Boat:
Yup, gonna strip the whole enchilada down before we start fixing her up. Deck and hull..

Deck:
The deck is cored with 1/4" end-grain balsa. Soft areas are the entire bow forward of the shrouds, both sidedecks midships under the "toejammers"(which ARE NOT going back! why couldn't the bastard use the cars for the jib lines?), portside cockpit bench fwd of the lazarette, stern deck starboard of the aft lazarette, and the entire cockpit sole. I am thinking of some new drastic actions with the recore job. 1/4" core is all? I may go back with epoxy mat, the bugger'll never break again. Most of the damage is from the deck hardware improper/inadequate/old bedding or none at all (toejammers). Removal will be on top as there is just too much area to be redone. May do the whole thing. It's gonna be a long winter.....

Hull/deck joint:
...is in pretty good shape. It's got that tarry gasket material (butyl?) and doesn't leak (Thank God, about the only thing that doesn't) and all the bolts are tight. Got a little work to do on the ribbing to fix a bit of rot from the stanchion leaks. Probably use CPES then close it up in roving.

[Fishman_Tx]

I'll get a few new pix up soon. Home-boy didnt bring the camera cable with him.

[Sailorman97]

Originally Posted by Fishman_Tx

Ok, blister removal and repair time.
We start this process this weekend of "popping" blisters so that they can drain and dry. We don't have too many but do have a few in a couple of "touchy" places. One of which is on the corner of the upper aft trailing face of the skeg (in the gap twixt the skeg and rudder slab face). See photo.

A lot of the Gel is crazed and the blisters will be ground and filled. Does one NEED to re-gel, if not then what. She'll be getting several layers of paint and bottom coat. Barrier coat? What should one use? It was suggested after the fill and fair to roll a minimum of 3 coats epoxy to seal it.
Your thoughts?


Thx!

Popping blisters does nothing. You need grind out the bad glass, then spray with hot water for about 30 days to remove all the water. Hot water pressure washer is best. This draws the glycol and phalic acid out. When your finished the area will again measure low with a moisture meter.


Then repair and put Interlux epoxy bottom on to keep the water out. If you don't do this you will only repair it again in a few years.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Sailorman97

Popping blisters does nothing. You need grind out the bad glass, then spray with hot water for about 30 days to remove all the water. Hot water pressure washer is best. This draws the glycol and phalic acid out. When your finished the area will again measure low with a moisture meter.


Then repair and put Interlux epoxy bottom on to keep the water out. If you don't do this you will only repair it again in a few years.

I hope he’s done by now…. you’re commenting on his post from 13 years ago…

[Sailorman97]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

I hope he’s done by now…. you’re commenting on his post from 13 years ago…

One would hope he would be but given how some projects go he might not be but if not he has given up.

Some how ended up in the feed on the up right hand side... lol.