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Old 03-03-2010, 04:57   #16
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When we got our steel yacht, we welded up all the through hulls openings and seacocks.
Must be a bummer trying to flush the head!!
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Old 08-03-2010, 21:19   #17
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Wow, placing it on the self steering rudder is a paradigm shift in thinking, well done. Dont have one installed as yet on our Adams.

The sea-cock for the engine intake is a heavy 3 piece 316SS beast that can be locked with a padlock as well. Only flexible hose above it but we only turn it on when we are on-board and plan to use the engine.

The larger cockpit drains is something we have entertained. Our cockpit drains slope so steeply back from the front of the cockpit we can not put anything down them, otherwise we might have used one for the speed-log. I looked at the aft of the cockpit 2 weeks ago to consider putting in a large drain there, but there is no ideal site and then the wash from the prop would not be ideal for the speed log and transducer performance with all that turbulence and bubbles, etc.

As for the current plan re the transducer, we will probably install it in a recess (welded in) then use a bubble free epoxy to smooth off to hull shape. It should be reasonably secure and still ping the bottom. We may build a chest/capped pipe over the top, will see how time goes on the slips.

In our early days we learnt a lesson about transducers that had us scurrying. The transducer was a through hull but did not have a lock ring, when we removed the flooring to start out first works on the vessel after purchase, jenny walked around and stepped on the transducer at one stage. No lock-ring, so what happened, it popped out of the hull with only the cable attached and a hell of a lot of water comes in through that hole, fast .

Funny in retrospect, and a greater respect for transducer installations.
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Old 10-03-2010, 10:01   #18
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... This should be deep enough to remain submerged and only draw back we envisage is possible turbulance at speed. However at speed one shouldn't be relying on the depth sounder anyway and you can always slow down to check depth as you would anyway coming into an anchorage...
I'd think this a major drawback.
Sometimes one wants to run an isobath (sounding or contour line), having nothing to do with approaching shallow water (anchorage).
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Old 10-03-2010, 13:56   #19
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"Sometimes one wants to run an isobath (sounding or contour line), having nothing to do with approaching shallow water (anchorage)."

What is an isobath, any why do it
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Old 10-03-2010, 14:00   #20
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Must be a bummer trying to flush the head!!
Porta Potty at the moment. A proper head system can come latter & we will probably have a pump out system as the Environmental laws and police are tougher on that issue around Sydney.
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Old 10-03-2010, 14:10   #21
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For discharge a standpipe is the answer; no valve/seacock needed.

cheers,
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Old 10-03-2010, 14:16   #22
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What is an isobath, any why do it
Let me google that for you
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Old 10-03-2010, 14:38   #23
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OK, it's a underwater contour. Bathymetry - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

"Sometimes one wants to run an isobath" I am still not sure what you are doing here ? It is morning here and I am not a quick as I used to be.
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Old 11-03-2010, 10:57   #24
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I tried the overboard transducer (combo) way and it did not work. As soon as the boat was moving any faster than 3 knots the depth went off and the speed was way away from the real world. My educated guess was too much turbulence. But I have seen it work very well on a planning powerboat, so perhaps if you have a flat bottom boat it will work fine.

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Old 06-04-2010, 15:42   #25
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Task completed, transduce installed.

Many thanks for the tips.

In the end we opted for the heavy pipe through the hull, slightly protruding and fared with a little epoxy putty to smooth out the sharpness. perhaps not the bombproof solution but I am confident enough that it will keep the water out.
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Old 06-04-2010, 16:14   #26
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Hi ribbony.

Don't stop now, fair it out! Much like it is done here for a commercial sonar (Furuno CH270):


ciao!
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Old 06-04-2010, 16:16   #27
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In all my years around boats, only twice have I seen a plastic transducer crack, and allow water into the boat.
Both times, the problem was caused by the use of a softwood block, split to the deadrise angle, used inside aand outside to produce a horizontal face for the transducer and the nut. Wood swelled, transducer stretched and cracked.
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Old 06-04-2010, 16:20   #28
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Nick, that is one big protrusion, hope it sits more flush than the way it looks there !

Looks like an excited whale before mating
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Old 06-04-2010, 16:58   #29
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Nick, that is one big protrusion, hope it sits more flush than the way it looks there !
Don't worry, it isn't Jedi ;-) (it's Windhorse, Dashew's current boat). What you see is the sonar extended down as far as it will go I think. When not in use, it'll retract completely (still doing straight down sonar). It's a big 6" hole formed by a pipe that goes above waterline inside the hull.

But it's the fairing around it that I was trying to bring to your attention. The pipe protrudes 3/4" out of the hull on the forward end and is faired out so that it's even difficult to see that it used to be a pipe sticking out. This would be very quick to do for your install too and it will reduce the turbulence greatly. Your current setup might create too much turbulence, interfering with the transducer.

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Old 06-04-2010, 17:28   #30
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"Your current setup might create too much turbulence, interfering with the transducer."

Oh, did not think of that little detail. As the boat is now back in the water we will have to see what happens. If there is turbulance, then some 2 part underwater putty may be needed for some aquatic sculpturing. Not going to slip it again for at least a year, or two.

I was thinking last night of other things I should have done given more time on the slips. The anodes are just bolted on with long threads sticking out and do not sit very flush against the hull. I was wondering if they could be streamlined and even reduce the number that we have on the hull (4 on hull, 2 on rudder). But all that is in retrospect, will have to save it for next time.

The last 3 times we have slipped the yacht, we have been on it for 4 weeks, 2.5 weeks, 3 weeks, this time 2 days, at last we have things in check and it is nearly 4 years since we bought the Adams35.
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