Visit our Popular Forums

theway · 05-06-2011, 11:51

I have read a lot about boat maintenance, but cant recall anything on how often thru-hull/seacocks should be removed, serviced and "rebeded". Should this be done on a time line, or is it ok to leave them if they are not showing any signs of problems? What can I check for besides visual inspection and opening and closing on a regular basis?

thanks again,
austin

jonmhammond · 05-06-2011, 13:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by theway

I have read a lot about boat maintenance, but cant recall anything on how often thru-hull/seacocks should be removed, serviced and "rebeded". Should this be done on a time line, or is it ok to leave them if they are not showing any signs of problems? What can I check for besides visual inspection and opening and closing on a regular basis?

thanks again,
austin

Definitely pull them out whenever you're on the hard for antifouling. Check for corrosion and grease them. If properly maintained (and there's no electrolytic corrosion problem) a good seacock will last 40 years or more. Grease as often as possible. There might be a small valve that you can open to grease them regularly while floating.

Cheechako · 05-06-2011, 13:26

Assuming they are bronze tapered plug seacocks. #1 make sure they all turn. If you're in the mood for a big job on you stomach and sides etc. Then remove the plugs, clean them up good and regrease them. I use anhydrous lanolin (avail in a pint at your pharmacy..or get them to order a pint) It will resist water flow pretty much forever, and will even stop dripping from a corroded seacock plug. The down side is that the seacocks will be harder to turn...they will take some effort and move slowly. It's great to keep screws etc from corroding into the mast too. Anchor shackles come free no matter how long they have been used etc... I've used it on turnbuckle threads also.. can you tell I love the stuff? :>)

witzgall · 05-06-2011, 13:28

The answer depends on the type of seacock or valve you have. It sounds like you are asking about re-bedding thru hull fittings, which is not the same as a seacock.

If it is a cone type or Marelon valve, they need to be serviced every year. A groco stainless ball valve just needs to be inspected and operated on a regular basis.

Thru-hull fittings - that depends on the fitting, and the bedding. They certainly should be inspected for a good seal, and conrrosion/pitting etc.

Chris

Cheechako · 05-06-2011, 15:04

oh....and you need to be out of the water!!!!

HopCar · 05-06-2011, 15:42

Witzgall has it right. I have seen people put grease fittings in the drain plug hole of cone type seacocks so they can pump grease in. Never do that with a ball valve type seacock as you will blow out the seals.

theway · 08-06-2011, 07:17

Well, thanks again. I am pretty sure all of them are bronze ball type seacocks, and the thru-hull fittings seem to be bedded well (as there are no leaks).

thanks
austin

Cheechako · 08-06-2011, 09:08

It's a tough situation. Your thru hulls are over 30 years old. Bronze is great, but a threaded fitting is perfect for corrosion. Are your seacocks flanged on the bottom making a large flat interface with the hull? or are they screwed on to the top of the threaded thru-hull fitting that extends through and above the hull? It seems "what can go wrong will go wrong" with old boats. Maybe you should remove one and look at the condition for peace of mind?

**James S** · 08-06-2011, 10:09

I'm seriously thinking about replacing my 33 year old ones if I can get to a decent haul out this summer.
Just remebering that thread we had a year or so ago where that gal lost her New to her boat on its maden voyage due to sea cock failure.

Tynesider · 09-06-2011, 06:37

austin[/QUOTE]
Hi Austin

Are they what we call in the UK 'Blakes' valves, If so I agree with others to service them every time you 'lift out', it takes me 2 hrs to do both of my valves in the heads, 1 x 1 1/2" 1 x 3/4".

Remove the top halve of the valve and using 'valve grinding past' and wet/dry paper, grind them out till as below, clean off when finished with thinners and 're grease' with sea cock grease.

Do not overtighten the top bolts on assembly, you should be able to turn the on/off lever with one finger without any leaks.

Before

after

Before

After

theway · 09-06-2011, 06:56

Thanks for the pictures mike. I think ill take pictures of mine and post them just to get some other eyes on them. Maybe someone with more experience and familiarity will see something that i dont.

Cheechako · 09-06-2011, 09:03

I think what is more prone to failure on a heavy tapered seacock may be the threaded through hull. Maybe just remove one without disturbing the valve in the boat and give it a check.
James: those Bronze tapered valves in your CT are probably really good valves. Maybe ditto my comment above?

**James S** · 09-06-2011, 09:23

I only have two that are below the water line (when at rest) I'm not sure how to be SURE that they haven't lost there "metal" ...don't see any pink.

Cheechako · 09-06-2011, 09:51

When you remove the tapered plug you can inspect. If you only have two wow...that's cool. Maybe just leave the inside assembly intact and replace the threaded through hull...? They are cheap and it may not be too hard if you have the tool...