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24-05-2013, 07:09
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Singapore
Boat: Riviera 33'
Posts: 53
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Thru-hull bolt above water replacement, wiring questions
Hi all,
I am new to boating but fairly handy and able to follow instructions. Just looking for help on best practice.
First up is the swim platform supports. They are stainless, but appear to be leaking inside the lazarette. Plan is to remove, clean and re-seal (maybe new stainless fasteners if required).
For this kind of application (very wet, not submersed) I was thinking to use either butyl or a polysulfide. Which is best in this situation?
I'm assuming that the solid GRP hull won't need 'potting' thru the hole?
Next up is some dodgy lazarette wiring that needs fixing. I have adhesive lined heatshrink Ancor butt connectors for the permanent connections.
And what about semi-permanent/removeable items (i.e. bilge pump) do people use any kind of waterproof plug/socket connector to make it easier to re-wire? Or is the practice to butt-splice these too?
Thanks in advance.
__________________
If you think a professional is expensive, wait until you see how much an amateur will cost you.
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24-05-2013, 09:45
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#2
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Boat: 48 Wauquiez Pilot Saloon
Posts: 5,975
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Re: Thru-hull bolt above water replacement, wiring questions
Jeepers.... What no help here yet?
I'll get this thread moving.... I think both poly or butyl are good choices... I am over procedural, so I would pot with wet resin, but I really don't think it is something you would notice a difference in your lifetime....
Go with new fasteners, 316.... yours have some amount of corrosion... Besides being spiffy clean with your install and your goo of choice, it would be a super bummer if grandma standing on the swimstep determined how much bolt strength was left....
Waterproof connectors????
Try something like this:
Amazon.com: Amico Male Female 4 Pin LED Waterproof Connector Cable White: Everything Else
Cheers!
__________________
In the harsh marine environment, something is always in need of repair...
Mai Tai's fix everything...
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24-05-2013, 09:57
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Skagit City, WA
Posts: 25,483
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Re: Thru-hull bolt above water replacement, wiring questions
If the transom is cored you should pot the holes.... is this a powerboat? Most are cored. I would want to use something that will flow into the bolt head and threads etc... like polysulphide or 5200. If not cored I wouldnt pot the holes but just use something real good like 5200.
I usually use a terminal strip for the bilge pump. I locate it as high as practical. This usually allows the pump wires to remain uncut and intact in the wet zone and allows the pump to be readily replaced.
__________________
"I spent most of my money on Booze, Broads and Boats. The rest I wasted" - Elmore Leonard
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24-05-2013, 10:18
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#4
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always in motion is the future
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: in paradise
Boat: Sundeer 64
Posts: 18,866
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Re: Thru-hull bolt above water replacement, wiring questions
Polysulfide, new 316 (A4) fasteners with bigger 316 (A4) washer.
Terminal strip for power feed, pump and float switch. Ring terminals on the feed and fork terminals with "stop" (so they can't slip from under the screw easily) for pump and float switch. This helps when you must change the pump quick as the screws won't fall out and get lost in the bilge.
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24-05-2013, 16:48
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Singapore
Boat: Riviera 33'
Posts: 53
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Re: Thru-hull bolt above water replacement, wiring questions
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheechako
If the transom is cored you should pot the holes.... is this a powerboat? Most are cored. I would want to use something that will flow into the bolt head and threads etc... like polysulphide or 5200. If not cored I wouldnt pot the holes but just use something real good like 5200.
I usually use a terminal strip for the bilge pump. I locate it as high as practical. This usually allows the pump wires to remain uncut and intact in the wet zone and allows the pump to be readily replaced.
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It's a Riviera 33', solid GRP hull apparently.
Don't terminal strips corrode in a bilge, even if high above the waterline?
And thanks to everyone for the advice.
__________________
If you think a professional is expensive, wait until you see how much an amateur will cost you.
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24-05-2013, 17:47
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Miami Florida
Boat: Ellis Flybridge 28
Posts: 4,057
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Re: Thru-hull bolt above water replacement, wiring questions
"Don't terminal strips corrode in a bilge, even if high above the waterline?"
Not if you use a high quality terminal strip that is nickle plated like the ones Blue Sea makes.
Link: Terminal Block 20 Ampere 4 Circuit
__________________
Retired from Hopkins-Carter Marine Supplies
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24-05-2013, 18:26
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Oregon
Boat: Seafarer36c
Posts: 5,563
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Re: Thru-hull bolt above water replacement, wiring questions
Is it any wonder that boats sink when you have wiring like that? It's a free country but should anyone be able to do something like that?
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24-05-2013, 21:05
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#8
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always in motion is the future
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: in paradise
Boat: Sundeer 64
Posts: 18,866
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Also, when all is connected, spray the terminal block with an anti corrosion spray.
__________________
“It’s a trap!” - Admiral Ackbar.
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25-05-2013, 10:11
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Skagit City, WA
Posts: 25,483
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Re: Thru-hull bolt above water replacement, wiring questions
Quote:
Originally Posted by s/v Jedi
Also, when all is connected, spray the terminal block with an anti corrosion spray.
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__________________
"I spent most of my money on Booze, Broads and Boats. The rest I wasted" - Elmore Leonard
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31-05-2013, 07:17
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Singapore
Boat: Riviera 33'
Posts: 53
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Re: Thru-hull bolt above water replacement, wiring questions
OK well thanks for all your help. Having visited all the (limited) marinas in Singapore, no sign of polysulfide, its all 5200 and 291 here, apparently.
Online order placed instead
One more question: I want to put a towel rail in the head...with those thin plastic boat walls...I assume somthing like a rawlnut or 'umbrella' toggle plug will do the job? with SS screws of course...
__________________
If you think a professional is expensive, wait until you see how much an amateur will cost you.
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31-05-2013, 07:22
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#11
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Carlsbad, CA
Boat: 1976 Sabre 28-2
Posts: 7,505
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Re: Thru-hull bolt above water replacement, wiring questions
LifeCaulk may be the only polysulfide caulk out there. 3M has apparently quit making 101.
__________________
Peter O.
'Ae'a, Pearson 35
'Ms American Pie', Sabre 28 Mark II
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18-06-2013, 04:22
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Mystic
Boat: St. Francis 44 mkII
Posts: 361
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Re: Thru-hull bolt above water replacement, wiring questions
Personally I would be very very wary of installing a towel rail that is not connected structurally... it looks so very much like a handhold......
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twisticles
OK well thanks for all your help. Having visited all the (limited) marinas in Singapore, no sign of polysulfide, its all 5200 and 291 here, apparently.
Online order placed instead
One more question: I want to put a towel rail in the head...with those thin plastic boat walls...I assume somthing like a rawlnut or 'umbrella' toggle plug will do the job? with SS screws of course...
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