"why not glass the "lid" down with some thickened epoxy
A very bad idea. That would make it impossible to remove the lids for future repair or cleaning
access. Like burning a house down in order to get rid of a mouse, there are more effective ways to do this.
Since there is some question as to what was original and correct, I would suggest calling Beneteau
, who have a good reputation for keeping records and assisting owners. They will know if there is supposed to be an o-ring or gasket
, and if so, they may have replacements
or at least they can say what is needed.
If the answer is simply "CLEAN the lid and tank and reapply SEALANT
then TORQUE DOWN ALL SCREWS EVENLY" they will say that too. Using the correct sealant
, applied to properly cleaned surfaces, and applying uniform torque to all the screws (which may mean spending $20 on an inch-torque wrench and buying
some new screws) should ensure a proper seal.
On what "proper" means? When materials like PermaTex form-a-gasket (similar to silicone seal) first came on the market, mechanics were given samples and because they could bother CLEANING
surfaces or reading the instructions, the material failed and they wouldn't use it.
When PermaTex assembled a race
(Indy 500? Formula 1?) with JUST form-a-gasket, and raced it and campaigned it, and there were zero failures? People started taking more interest in the product. The only difference was in following the instructions!
To the OP: No one ever used CHALK on those tanks
. They shouldn't have used CAULK either. The job calls for a SEALANT or an ADHESIVE
SEALANT and they are all very different products. In order to any of them to work
properly, you often need to clean the surfaces (spray and water
and clean paper towels, followed by alcohol and more clean paper towels, working outwards from the clean zone to the surrounding area) and then apply the material as directed. After assembly it needs a proper time to set and cure--without getting it wet, without walking on it and bouncing around. And, if the screws are doing anything, they need to be uniformly compressed (with the torque wrench) or else the pressure on the gasket
that you have made will be uneven, and it will work out of place and leak.
All simple--but all guaranteed to fail if not done correctly. And if the sealant has gone stale on the shelf (they have expiration dates, even unopened) it can fail to cure and fail to seal as well.
The devil is in the details. (And that rubric IS actually about caulk.(G)