Teak trim finishing/epoxy tips techniques

[67Therapy]

I'm embarrassed to ask such simple questions but I'd like a second opinion on the way forward here on my first finishing project. I have a few small pieces of teak trim on the exterior of the boat that I am going to epoxy coat with 2-part Bristol Finish Amber Urethane...1. Companionway louvered doors, 2. handrails at the companionway entrance and 3. grab handle for the sliding overhead hatch.

They were all previously varnished somehow but it has cracked and is coming off in many spots. So, I removed these pieces from the boat, took them home, scraped and sanded. Now ready for coating.

Questions:
1. What is the sequence for coating the handrails when you have to contend with plugs. I can put the recommended 8 coats on here at the house, but then I have to attach/place plugs/finish plugs separately? Do 4-5 coats at home, attach/place plugs and then do 4 more coats on the top of the piece when installed? Best practices? Wood glue on plugs...they came out pretty easy, not sure they were glued originally?

2. The handrails (roughly 1" x 3" x 4') were attached to the fiberglass with SS screws covered with a plug, and a "bead" of silicone all along the bottom as "glue". The hole in the fiberglass for the screw was about 1/4" in diameter and filled with some clear silicone-type substance...this is what the screw was screwed into. I assume the "silicone plug" in the fiberglass was put there to absorb wood expansion and contraction...is this the way I should re-attach? Do I need to re-do the silicone plugs?

3. Regarding the finish make/model...I have two new 1 qt kits that came with the boat in the rubbermaid bin of boat soap/chemicals/etc. I think this project was on the POs list, but he didn't get a round to it. The advantage to this finish is that I already have it...I'd entertain strong objections to using it, but I don't see why not to since I already have it.

Thanks! I appreciate any tips, tricks, advice you all have to offer!

[DeepFrz]

2. Handrails should always be through bolted. I was on a small cuddy cabin power boat once and was going forward. One of the crew shifted seats and I found myself in the water with the handrail in my hand and 3 or 4 screw holes in the cabin top. Luckily we were at the dock.

[minaret]

You should really do a search here on the forum for people's experiences with Bristol finish.

[ohdrinkboy]

Just say no to Bristol Finish. I removed all of my teak and finished it in the garage. BF looked good the first 8-12 months and then started lifting. It was a mess to get off. Go varnish or cetol. They are both easier to remove, and last just as long.

[Ocean Girl]

Just quick note, I've never used BF but still got something to say

Be sure to clean, teak and glass, very well. If it is silicon that has been used, it can contaminate the wood and fbg for future coating and caulking. be sure not to sand wood until all silicon is cleaned off, sanding can bed silicon into the teak.

Epoxy works best when it is encapsulated. I epoxy my bungs, but you may get differing opinions on that .

You also can build area around bungs after remount, then sand and recoat whole piece. However you do it, be sure bungs have just as much protection as the rest of the teak.

Link to caulk -http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...eak-43671.html
Link to Bristol finish-http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...eak-70530.html

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...sh-2086-2.html

Not us, but folks just as passionate about their wood -Bristol Finish over Resin?

Hope this helps,
Erika

[67Therapy]

Thank you all for the answers.

DeepFrz, good point!

ohdrinkboy, I hadn't realized that so many on this board had such bad experiences with BF...glad ya'll spoke up. Probably save me some heartache.

Ocean Girl, Thanks for the links...gave me some good direction on this project (and some others that will be following).

Minaret et al,
After following OG's links and doing some searching, I'm going to go with AwlSpar followed by AwlBrite on these particular pieces. Do you have any recommendations on the sequencing of finishing, assembly, bungs with respect to the handrail. I'm inclined to put 7-8 coats of AwlSpar on the handrail, then AwlBrite clear coat just the underside of the piece. Attach it to the boat, install bungs, build them up as OG suggested, apply another 7-8 coats of AwlSpar then the AwlBrite on the top/sides. Thoughts? Any tips/tricks...I've board sanded, so I think everything is level smooth. What type brush recommend? Will the finish be even if I go this route with the bungs?

[minaret]

Originally Posted by 67Therapy

Thank you all for the answers.

DeepFrz, good point!

ohdrinkboy, I hadn't realized that so many on this board had such bad experiences with BF...glad ya'll spoke up. Probably save me some heartache.

Ocean Girl, Thanks for the links...gave me some good direction on this project (and some others that will be following).

Minaret et al,
After following OG's links and doing some searching, I'm going to go with AwlSpar followed by AwlBrite on these particular pieces. Do you have any recommendations on the sequencing of finishing, assembly, bungs with respect to the handrail. I'm inclined to put 7-8 coats of AwlSpar on the handrail, then AwlBrite clear coat just the underside of the piece. Attach it to the boat, install bungs, build them up as OG suggested, apply another 7-8 coats of AwlSpar then the AwlBrite on the top/sides. Thoughts? Any tips/tricks...I've board sanded, so I think everything is level smooth. What type brush recommend? Will the finish be even if I go this route with the bungs?

I'd keep everything in Awlspar until after the bungs are in and have gotten several coats. Then finish with a few coats of Awlbrite. The results are amazing. Make sure to carefully maintain your topcoat of Awlbrite. I use Epifanes oval brushes for bigger stuff and Epifanes flat brushes for smaller stuff. Oval and round brushes hold more product, making for less dipping, which makes it easier to keep a wet edge. They also provide a better finish. They cost a fortune, but given the method you have chosen I'm guessing spending some more bucks on nice brushes might be on your radar. If not Corona is the budget standard. Just make sure to use real China boar bristle or better. Really high end like Epifanes is badger bristle. I have brushes that cost over $100, but it sure shows in the results and in less coats applied to get a filled grain.

https://epifanes.com/na/store/brushes-and-accessories/